i am thinking about getting my first pet snake what kind should i get?

Answer 1

A corn snake would probably be good for you. They're the snakes most people start out with when they first get a snake.

Answer 2

Snakes really are wonderful animals, but I do advise anyone that is considering getting one as a pet to research several things before settling the question. Not only what kind, but also, is a snake the right animal for me? First off, do find out if it's legal to own snakes where you live if you don't know this already. Many cities and counties have ordinances on what kinds of animals you can have, and how many of what you can own. Also, if you rent, will your landlord allow it? There's nothing worse than losing a pet over a landlord's 'no'! (In my case, my building was sold, and the new owners weren't happy about cats. This was back before I had snakes, but I solved the problem by moving. I wasn't about to have a cat hater for a landlord!)
Next, the kind of snake isn't just limited to 'breed'. Make sure, if you buy a snake, that you get one from a reputable breeder. Don't just go to Petco or the animal store downtown! Your likely to get a wild caught snake that could be riddled with parasites, mites, and behavior issues! If you don't know of any good breeders in your area, call the local vets and find someone that sees exotics...(especially snakes!) He or she may be able to point you to someone in your vicinity that breeds quality reptiles. Then, talk to the vet, the breeder, and other people you may know that own snakes. If you can, handle some! Research their husbandry, so that you'll get an idea of how much space you'll need for their set up, and how well you'll be able to accomodate your snake's needs in your home. How big will the snake get at maturity? That will be one way to decide how much room you'll need to devote to it's enclosure. These are some issues to consider when thinking about what kind of snake to get. Hope they help!

Answer 3

I'd say a ball python.

They get an average of 3-5 ft (occasionally six-footers happen, but that's pretty rare) Female snakes are generlly the larger of the genders, but once again, it's not always the case.

With any snake, when you first buy everything needed, it'll be a bit pricey. You can start a snake baby off in a 10-20 gal tank. A lot of people argue over how big the tank should be for a full grown snake. I asked a very knowledgable expert, and whole-heartedly agree with what he said: a snake should be able to stretch out completely in its tank without its head or tail touching the ends. This not only gives it more free movement but it also helps keep good respiratory health for the snake.

Ball pythons do need special lighting and humidity, as they are old world species (tropical climates) unlike the kingsnake or cornsnake which would do fine with just an undertank heater. Never EVER put a heat rock or any other heat source inside a snake's cage. It will burn the snake severely! Seriously, I don't know why petshops still sell those things.

A lot of people ***** about ball pythons because they're "picky eaters". I see it differently: they're SHY eaters. A snake is very vulnerable to a predator's attack when it's first swallowing and digesting a meal. I had to try different tactics before I found one that my ball felt comfortable eating in. And despite what many say you CAN get any snake to eat thawed/pre-killed prey items. If you want to know more about that, feel free to email me. ^.~

Also, pythons and other larger constrictors have extremely slow metabolisms. I've heard of them going as long as a year without eating. Needless to say, a lot of owners panic when their snake refuses to eat for, say, six months. There is no reason to be alarmed unless you notice the snake is losing weight.

I've worked with kingsnakes and corns as well, but prefer balls for their extremely docile attitudes as well as their slow movement. Being extremely bulky and muscular, they don't slither fast like most species, preferring to wander around at a slow, cautious pace. My ball Kaa gets to wander certain rooms in the house (under my supervision, of course) and is a very curious little boy (well, technically not LITTLE--he's about 4 ft now. ^^; LOL) These aren't aggressive snakes though, so if you're axious about getting bitten, all the more reason to like the ball pythons! -nod nod nod-

A note before considering purchasing any type of snake: are you willing to commit for its full lifespan? Corn snakes and kings average around 20 yrs. The longest lived ball python lived to be 48 yrs old! And don't even think about getting it for a few yrs and then trying to sell it. All the rescues and zoos have more rescue snakes than they can handle. Snakes need to be handled on a regular basis in order to be comfortable around people. They need their water bowl scrubbed and changed daily. They need special lighting and tank sizes. They need to eat dead rodents (don't like it, don't get one) And you MUST know of a exotic pet vet before purchasing the snake, otherwise you could be shaping up for a load of grief for your animal should it get sick or injured (note: snakes should get a vet check up every six months)

Answer 4

Corn snakes, ball pythons, or king snakes are the best for begginers. These kinds of snakes aren't as hard to take care of as other species. Feeding and enviroments are more simple. They are also smaller. Keep in mind that every specie of snake is a huge commitment.

Answer 5

A spotted python is a great starter and its something different then a ball python or corn snake. You can get them at reptile shows or sales

Answer 6

I'd get a reticulated python. They average about 15-30 feet.

Answer 7

id get a red tail boa they are expentsive but worthit

Answer 8

A cornsnake or ball python probably is best.

Answer 9

it all depends
i recomend a ball python
but some ppl perfer the corn snakes and stuff....
i also recomend boas but not as beginners!!lol

here is a care sheet on genaral pythons...
witch includes all pythons!!

pythons!

Cage Recuirements
The size of the cage required depends on the species and length of the snake. There is no set formula for this and it is better to be advised on the particular specimen than to go through all species here. A one metre snake does not necessarily require a one metre cage. Although glass aquariums are not generally recommended, they can be used if certain conditions apply. The disadvantage with an all glass aquarium is that the heat disperses too easily during the winter months and also may present some problems with wiring the thermostat, lights etc. A wooden cage with a glass front is more desirable and should be painted and sealed with a good quality paint.

Heating
can be supplied by means of incandescent light bulbs correctly wired to a thermostat to control the cage temperature. Other means of heating are available such as heat tape, heating mats (never use heat rocks they are dangerous to all reptiles)The desired maximum temperature for most pythons is around 30 C. Where possible give the specimen the opportunity to move around the cage to allow it to seek variance of temperature. Good ventilation is also necessary but should be placed in a position where cold drafts will not be entering the warm cage over the colder months. It is best that water is available to the snake at all times and this should be in a non-spillable container varying in size according to the specimen being kept. The floor of the cage can be covered with anything from clean newspaper to washed (but dry) aquarium gravel.

This can be changed as it becomes soiled. Cage furnishings are up to the individual and do not necessarily do anything for the reptile. A hiding spot, such as a hollow log or constructed hide box will facilitate your pythons needs for privacy. Normally room lighting is sufficient to throw some light into your cage and in most cases special lighting such as Ultra-Violet is not required although at present it is being used with some success with Diamond Pythons and will definitely do no harm to your snake.


Feeding
once a week is regarded as pretty normal for most pythons and no need to panic if you miss the odd week or two. It is good to take some of the more mature specimens off their food over the winter months and go through a bit of 'natural semi-hibernation'. Feed the snake on what food items were suggested to you on purchase, be careful in the case of young individuals not to offer too large a food item. Most pythons will readily accept mice or rats but some may prefer items such as birds, guinea pigs or rabbits. Shedding of the skin comes with growth and will be more regular in younger specimens. Avoid handling or feeding your snake when it is preparing to slough. Also avoid handling your snake after it has been fed.


Never place your pet snake in the unshaded area of a backyard leaving it to 'cook' in the extremes of the suns radiation. The same applies to transporting your snake anywhere by car. Reptiles cannot control their body temperature if placed in a position where their body temperature is governed by unnatural influences. Do not use fly sprays or other similar products near your reptile or cage.





Behaviors....

many pythons have temperature-sensitive pits in their upper or lower labial scales which are used to detect their warm-blooded prey.The python is one of the more docile types of snake. Some types of python are suitable as pets. In particular, the ball python is quite popular. Others, such as the retuculated python, can grow to such sizes that keeping them as pets is not practical.A common mis-belief is that the anaconda is the longest snake. In fact it is the reticulated python record today is just over 49 ft. The anaconda does hold the record as the heaviest snake, however.



Breeding.......

Pythons are egg layers, many pythons build nests or lay their eggs in burrows. Females of these species even incubate their eggs by coiling around the clutches and generating heat by muscular contractions.A python will typically lay from fifteen to one hundred eggs.



here is a care sheet on genaral boas
witch includes all boas

boas!!

FAMILY: Boidae

SUBFAMILY: Boinae

NEONATE SIZE: 14 to 22 inches(average 18 inches)

ADULT SIZE: 5-12 feet(males average 6-8 ft, females 7-10 ft.)

LIFESPAN: 20+ years in a healthy captive environment.

SEXING: Neonates may be "popped"(hemipenes exposed through inverting in male specimens) by an experienced herpeculturist, breeder, or Veterinarian. Others should be sexed by way of moist stainless steel sexing probes, which are inserted into the sides of the cloaca. These procedures should only be performed by extremely experienced hands, as severe injury to the snake could easily occur if performed improperly.

ENCLOSURE: TYPE:It is My opinion that aquarium type glass enclosures are a poor enclosure choice for a Common Boa Constrictor. It can be extremely difficult for herpeculturists to maintain proper heat and humidity levels in them. A handmade wood, or commercially constructed plastic type cage is a much better option, as they tend to hold heat and humidity quite well, without allot of extra effort.

FURNISHINGS: A hide box on both the warm and cool sides of the enclosure is necessary for the snake to feel secure. Some artificial vines and plants are a good idea as well. A rock or other rough item should be placed in the enclosure to aid with shedding. A securely attached climbing branch should be offered for young Boa Constrictors, this is not necessary for adult specimens as they are mostly terrestrial. A water bowl with fresh clean water, preferably large enough for the snake to completely submerge itself in, should be offered at all times on the cool side of the enclosure. The water should be changed at least every other day,daily is better, and the bowl should be washed at least twice a week.

FOOD: Carnivores which feed on rodents. Boa Constrictors should be fed appropriately sized, pre killed or frozen thawed, rats. Neonates can be started on rat pinks from birth. For the first year of life, 1 rat that is as thick as the thickest body girth of the snake should be fed, once a week. For the second Year of life, one appropriately sized rat should be fed every 10- 14 days. Adults may be fed every 14-21 days. Rabbits may be offered as adults, but, are higher in fat, and will continue to encourage growth. Boas may be maintained to healthier, more manageable, sizes by sticking to rats fed on a moderate schedule. The choice is Yours. Vitamin and mineral supplements are not required.

**Boa Constrictors should not be handled for at least 48 hours after feeding. Handling too early after feeding may cause the snake to regurgitate.

TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY REQUIREMENTS: TEMPS: Boa Constrictors should be offered a warm and cool side of the enclosure, in order so they may thermoregulate to their desired temperature at any time. Warm end temperature should be 86-90f(88f is ideal IMO). Cool end temperature should be 79-83f. A nighttime temperature drop is not necessary unless breeding. Temperatures should not exceed 90f or fall below 75f at any time.

Humidity: Humidity levels should remain at 55-65% at all times. Humidity can be raised into the 70-80% range to aid in shedding, but, should not be kept at these high levels for more than a week at a time.

EQUIPMENT: I prefer under tank heating pads or Flexwatt heat tape, controlled by a digital thermostat, in order to ensure proper warm side enclosure temperatures at all times. I also use a room heater to ensure proper ambient air temperatures. A high quality digital thermometer/hydrometer with outdoor temperature probe is quite useful in measuring the enclosure temperatures on both sides as well as monitoring the ambient enclosure humidity levels. This device should be kept at ground level in order to measure the conditions where the snake spends most of it’s time. Cheap dial type measuring devices are extremely inaccurate and unreliable.

LIGHTING: Daytime ambient lighting from a rooms window is all that is necessary for Boa Constrictors. They do not require UV lighting of any kind. Cage lighting is really the choice of the keeper. I use fluorescent cage lighting for cleaning and water changing tasks.

SUBSTRATE: Newsprint, butcher paper, aspen bedding, cypress mulch, and ground coconut husks are all safe choices so long as they remain dry. Avoid cedar shavings and pine shavings as they release aromatic phenolic oils which are toxic to snakes.

SHEDDING: A Boa Constrictor typiclly sheds it’s skin about every 6-8 weeks (more frequently as juveniles). Signs to look for to indicate an impending shed are as follows... First the snakes belly tends to turn pinkish and the tail area starts to get rather dull in color. Next the overall color of the snake will get dull and the eyes will get cloudy and blueish, or even white. A few days later, the snakes eyes will clear and the snake will return to it’s normal color and brilliance. The actual shedding of the skin, usually occours 2-5 days after the eyes have cleared.

Behaviors....

Generally non-aggressive. Neonates can be a bit nippy, but will usually calm with regular handling sessions. Adults tend to be quite docile, but, there are some exceptions. Most will remain docile, as long as their conditions are kept perfect and they are handled regularly.

Breeding.......

Live Birth: Boa Constrictors are Ovoviviparous, or "Live-Bearing" Snakes. Baby boas are born live. This is in contrast to the majority of all other snakes, which are egg laying. This aspect of husbandry requires even greater care while a female boa is gravid or pregnant. We must ensure proper husbandry during this stressful time for the female. Unfertilized ova will result in an orange, sweet potato looking "slug". Some slugs are common during the boa constrictor parturition (birthing process).

Spurs: Boa Constrictors also have the remnants of a pelvis, where hind limbs used to be attached, and now have only anal or cloacal spurs. These spurs are much larger and more defined on males, and are used extensively during breeding. Male boas have retained amazing control over these spurs.

Color Mutations: Color & pattern mutations of Boa constrictor imperator include T- Albino, T+ Albino, Hypomelanistic, Anerythristic, Motley, Jungle, Striped, Arabesque, Snow, Ghost, Sunglow, Blood, and more!

Boas should not be bread until 2 year old (4 or 5 feet ) neonates:very often a male neonate can be manually everted by placing one thumb on the back of the tail and rolling the other twards the cloaca.The hemipenes will evert easily.BUT THIS SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY EXPERIENCED INDIVIAULS.as damage from excess pressure is possible

here is a care sheet and some info on corn snakes!!

corn snakes!!




Corn snakes (Elaphe guttata guttata) are one of the most available snakes in the pet trade today. Vast numbers of corn snakes are captive bred annually, and are justifiably one of the most popular snakes of all time. Corn snakes are relatively small, rarely exceeding five feet in length, active feeders, tolerate a wide variety of environmental conditions, come in a dazzling arry of color morphs, and are very easy to breed. All of these factors combined make the corn snake an excellent choice for both the beginning and advanced reptile hobbyist.

Enclosure Size

Corn snakes are relatively small, and as such, they do not require large enclosures. A baby corn snake can happily live in a ten gallon aquarium or enclosure of similar size. Some people choose to keep baby corn snakes in plastic shoeboxes with holes punched in the side. This type of enclosure is acceptable as long as appropriate heating is provided. Upon reaching full adult size (about three to four years), a corn snake will require an enclosure with the minimum dimensions of a standard twenty gallon long aquarium. Larger aquariums such as a thirty gallon breeder or fifty-five gallon tank are also appropriate. No matter whether your corn snake lives in a humble home or a palace, there are several important details to keep in mind when setting up your new pet.

Substrate

The substrate of a cage is the material that is on the bottom. There are appropriate and not so appropriate choices of substrate in corn snake housing. Cedar shavings are unacceptable as they cause respiratory problems in snakes. I personally do not recommend pine for the same reason, but others have used this substrate without any problems. Corn cob bedding (manufactured for use with birds) should not be used as a substrate because it causes excessive drying of dermal tissues and can cause serious intestinal blockage if swallowed. Acceptable substrates include reptile bark, butcher paper, paper towels and Astroturf.

Reptile bark can be purchased in pet stores, and is attractive and natural-looking. Butcher paper can be acquired in many places such as home depot or art supply stores. This substrate, while not particularly attractive, allows one to keep the cage very clean by continuously replacing the soiled paper. Paper towels have the same advantages and disadvantages of butcher paper. Astroturf can be used, but it does tend to rot easily if wetted, so it is best to have several pieces cut to fit the cage so you can rotate dirty and clean pieces.

Appropriate Heating

There are several choices for appropriate corn snake heating. Whatever choice of heating is used, it is very important to provide one area of the cage where the ambient (air) temperature is 80-85 degrees F. Corn snakes, like all reptiles, do not make their own body heat and rely on a behavioral mechanism called thermoregualtion to regulate their body temperature. Thermoregulation means that when a reptile is too cool, it moves to an area to warm itself, and when it is too hot, it moves to a cooler area. Access to warm areas are critically important to the health of your snake. Appropriate heating is required for proper digestion and the effective functioning of the immune system.

If the tank has a screen top, a shop light or metal reflector may be placed on top of the cage, to one side, with a heating bulb inside to create a basking area of 80-85 degrees F. Another method of heating is the use of quality undertank heating pads. Undertank heaters are plastic with one adhesive side. The adhesive side of the heater is used to attach it to the bottom of the outside of the tank, on one side of the cage. These heaters can only be used with certain types of cages, so check the directions before purchase. Hot rocks are not recommended for corn snake heating for several reasons.

Hot rocks provide a localized heat source that is often too hot. As a result, the snake will curl itself about the rock in an attempt to raise its body temperature, this can result in serious thermal burns. Think about this from the snake's point of view. One tiny area of the cage is 100 degrees F, and the rest of the cage is freezing. Without some type of heat, reptiles will get sick, so the animal will use whatever source of heat is provided, even if it is too hot. Some of the new hot rocks that have thermostats are a much better choice if a hot rock must be used. If not, at least burying the hot rock in some substrate will help to diffuse the heat. It is much better to provide indirect heating, or heating that the animal has no direct access to. This will prevent thermal burns from occurring.

Feeding

Corn snakes are rarely picky eaters if they have the proper heat and enclosure. One important aspect of feeding that is often overlooked is the addition of hiding areas to the cage. Corn snakes, like most snakes, like to feel secure in their environment. One way of providing for this need to is put hiding spots in the enclosure. Hiding spots can be made of anything, as long as the snake can completely fit inside the area and hide itself from view. Old cardboard boxes are good for this, but so are many of the commercially manufactured hiding spots available in pet stores. A hiding spot should be placed both on the warm end and the cool end of the cage, so that the animal can feel secure in any spot. Corn snakes kept without appropriate hiding areas become stressed and may refuse to eat.

Hatchling corn snakes begin eating pinky mice, and progress up to adult mice once they are mature. A good rule of thumb is to feed the snake a food item that is the same, or close to, the snake's diameter. Feed an item that is too large, and the snake will often regurgitate it. Snakes will also regurgitate if they do not have a warm area or if they are handled too soon after they eat. Corn snakes can be fed two times a week, but once is usually enough. Clean water should be available at all times, corn snakes drink often.

Conclusion

Corn snakes are justifiably one of the most popular pet snakes of all time. Corn snakes come in many beautiful colors, and are hardy and docile. This care sheet is not all of the information required to care for a corn snake properly, but it is a start. If you own a corn snake or plan on purchasing one, it is YOUR responsibility to thoroughly research the needs of your pet, doing so will make both your lives easier.

here is some info and some of a king snakes basic care !!

king snakes!!

Common Name: Kingsnakes


Latin name: Lampropeltis spp.

Native to: North America (excluding Canada)

Size: 3 - 4 feet average up to 6 feet

Life span: 10 - l5 years

General appearance: Head is small and not distinct from the body. They are smooth scaled with a variety of colors and patterns. Kingsnakes are constrictors and are usually active at dawn and dusk.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Glass aquariums are good to use and are easy to clean. Plastic shoe boxes can also be used. Hatchling kingsnakes can be housed in 10-gallon enclosures. Adults should be housed in 20-gallon enclosures or larger depending on size of the snake. A secure lid is essential or the snake will escape. Kingsnakes must be housed alone because they will eat other snakes.

Temperature: 75° - 85° F.

Heat/Light: Heating pads placed under one half of the enclosure are the best way to provide heat. This will give the kingsnake a range of temperature to move within. Aquarium glass can draw heat away from the kingsnake. Be sure to place a thermometer inside to measure correct temperature. Additional UV lighting is not needed for snakes. An incandescent basking light can be used during the day.

Substrate: Newspaper is inexpensive and easily changed when soiled. Other Choices are aspen shavings, outdoor carpeting or aquarium gravel which are more attractive to look at. A shelter or hide box is needed so the snake has a dark area to rest and feel secure. A rock or branch should be included to give an abrasive spot for the snake to rub upon to help with shedding.

Environment: In periods of low humidity a weekly misting is needed.

Diet: Hatchling kingsnakes can be started off feeding on pinkie mice. Juveniles and adults can gradually take larger prey of fuzzy mice, adult mice or young rats. Young snakes can be fed 1 - 2 times a week. Thawed frozen rodents are the easiest and safest way to feed snakes. A supply can be kept in your freezer and there are no problems from live mice biting your snake. Water should be provided in a bowl. The snake will drink from it and may soak itself before it sheds.

Maintenance: Cleanliness of the enclosure is essential. Waste products should be moved daily. Bowls must be clean with fresh water. Handlers are advised to wash their hands after holding any animals or animal related products.