although i have done this on a civic the integra is the same, basically you need
a) 17 MM socket (and ratchet)
b) 17MM box end wrench
c) 32MM socket (and breaker bar) $12-15
d) 2-3 foot long 'attitude adjustment tool' (aka steel pipe, metal fence post, something to put over the end of the breaker bar) $15
e) large flat head screwdriver or small/medium pry bar
f) standard stuff for taking off tire
g) jack stand
h) pair of pliers
j) chisel $7
k) pickle fork $10
L) medium hammer or small maul
(prices are approx for the greater philadelphia (USA) area)
basically the job entails removing the nut on the axle (hardest part) and then removing enough so the axle can come out.
1) the nut at the center of the wheel has a dent in it, straighten the dent as much as possible.
2) use the 32mm socket and breaker bar with the attitude adj. tool on the handle (you will need to chock the wheels as the car will move) this nut is the main problem and will require quite a bit of force on the pipe, if you use a large rachet instead it may break the rachet (i had the snap-on to prove it)
3) jack up the car, put the jack stand underneath, remove the tire.
4) the bottom of the strut has a bolt holding it to the lower control arm (17mm on either side) hold the bolt side still while turning the nut side to remove it. then use a screw driver to tap the bolt out.
5) on the bottom of the control arm there is a bolt with a cotter pin in it, straighten the cotter pin and pull it out, then remove the bolt, and use the pickle fork to separate the lower ball joint.
6) pull the hub assembly out and use the prybar/large flat head to pry the axle/CV from the transmission, the slide it out of the hub (or pull it from the hub first, doesnt matter which comes first) the trans might drip some fluid so watch for it.
7) installation is reverse of removal, but when you put the axle in the hub, put the nut on the end to help pull it through the hub
dont forget when you are done:
1) refill the transmission case with fluid
2) dent the ring on the axle nut after it is fully tight so it
doesnt loosen
3) put the cotter pin back in the lower ball joint bolt
4) smile cause you probly saved about $200-$300 by
doing it yourself instead of a mechanic
2007-08-25 11:45:25
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answer #1
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answered by sloopy M 1
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You'll need a huge torque wrench for torqueing the nut on the stub axle and probably a hub puller to remove it in the first place. I did one on a 1979 Audi, it was not easy.
2007-08-25 18:11:02
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answer #2
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answered by Chris H 6
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