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i've tried and tried to get my 89 camaro 305 timed right. i can get it running ,but it (pops) through exhaust. when ever i get it close ,and plug in est wire it just messes it up. when i set it to 0* like the book says where should my rotor button be pointing to? as in relation to my motor.

2007-08-21 00:00:29 · 5 answers · asked by Anonymous in Cars & Transportation Car Makes Chevrolet

5 answers

Q: Why can't I seem to get a proper timing reading?

A: The computer is programmed to automatically advance the timing. You need to disconnect the brown/black striped wire next to the heater box/fan housing and then you can get a real reading. Otherwise it will seem like it's advanced a great deal.

2007-08-21 00:16:14 · answer #1 · answered by Don B 5 · 1 1

I own a shop, and this is how to do it: Remove the front plug on the drivers side, place thumb over the hole, spin engine in short quick bursts until it blows your thumb/finger off the hole. Turn the engine over by hand in the nearest direction to align the 0 degree or TDC with the pointer on the timing cover. If you have an aftermarket cover, you may need to do this with a piston stop to locate the TDC, but the engine "must" be turned by hand so you don't damage it. #1 on the cap should be facing the front of the engine towards the radiator, and will be the second wire from right to left from the battery hook up, or the one towards the passenger side. Make a mark as to where the #1 is in relation to the engine on the cap. Remove the cap, and see where the rotor is pointing. I'll bet its pointing towards the back of the engine, and is 180 degrees out of time. When you drop the distributor into the engine it should bottom out pointing towards the #1 on the cap. You may have to use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump in order for it to fall all the way down into the engine. Once it is down, make a mark where the #1 is on the distributor, and remove the cap. Now turn the distributor in both directions, and the rotor should sweep to both sides of the mark for #1 on the distributor. If it won't do this, then you are in the wrong notch, and must start over with the distributor. When you get this done, turn the distributor until the rotor is pointing straight at the #1 on the cap, and you should be at 0 degrees or close. If it will not run right, then you may have a worn out cam that has a lobe, or lobes that are so worn it doesn't open the valve far enough, thus pops out the intake or exhaust. Another reason will be the harmonic balancer has spun inside the housing, and a new (damper) balancer must be installed to get it to time right. The wrong damper on an engine will also cause this. There is two different ones, and one will be off by 10 degrees if its the wrong one for your engine. With the bypass wire unhooked, set the timing to spec's that are on the sticker for you engine on or near the radiator or on the hood. Run the engine until its up to temperature, set the timing, tighten down the distributor, and recheck with the timing light. Once you have it to proper spec's, turn off engine, and replace bypass wire. If the engine now runs fine, you are good to go, but if it then doesn't want to run properly, suspect you have a bad temprature sensor, and the computer is not moving the timing to the proper advancement. Many times a bad temprature sensor will cause timing problems once the engine comes up to temprature.
If you have to find TDC the proper way to do it is with a piston stop. Turn engine by hand until piston hits stop and the engine can't be turned any more. Make a mark on the balance, and turn the engine in the other direction until the piston hits the stop again. Make a mark on the balancer. Measure the distance between the two marks, and the center between the two marks will be your true TDC. You can purchase a piston stop at a good parts store, and it screws into the spark plug hole. Tip: The engine is easier to turn with all the spark plugs out.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!

2007-08-21 07:38:42 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

This can be frustrating at times.

Remove the spark plug from the number one cylinder and jam a paper towel into the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine until the paper towel pops out. That will be close to top dead center and both the intake and exhaust valves will be closed.

I use a socket wrench extension to feel for the top of the piston through the spark plug hole and carefully move the engine back and forth until I've found TDC, (top dead center.) A 1/2 drive ratchet and appropiate sized socket on the bolt that connects your crank to your drive pulley works well to turn the engine.

Be sure to keep a hand on the socket extension you've placed through the spark plug hole as you turn the engine to prevent it from binding on anything or causing engine damage.

When you establish TDC, make a mark on the rotor cap that is directly beneath the ignition lead for the #1 cylinder and as close to the lower edge of the cap as possible. If you can, continue it on to the distributor housing itself. Loosen the bolt that holds the distributor in place and carefully rotate it to align the marks you've made with the rotor's position.

At this point, the engine should run at idle. Make sure your advance hose is disconnected and plugged to prevent a vacuum leak, reinstall the spark plug and ignition lead. Check to see if the engine runs.

If the engine runs, you're getting there.

A cheap test light is about $30. You'll put the large end of the spring that comes with it on the spark plug's top end, and the small end inside the ignition lead end and the clamp goes on the exposed portion of the spring. Make sure you're not in danger of shorting anything or cutting any wires as you connect everything and put the red alligator clip on your positive (+) battery terminal. You can connect the black, negative, (-) clip to any convenient ground. Again, be sure that the wires aren't going to short, or get cut by any moving parts.

Looking at the front of the block, from the left side of the car, you should be able to see the timing marks. It's a jagged tooth piece of metal that portrudes a little ways over your harmonic balancer. The light will flash when the ignition fires, illuminating the groove in the balancer that will show you where your timing is.

As the engine runs, gently turn the distributor until the mark on the harmonic balancer aligns with the appropriate timing mark designated in your manual or on the emissions notice just above your radiator.

Tighten the bolt for the distributor, reconnect the advance line and you should be golden.

JT

2007-08-21 07:32:30 · answer #3 · answered by jettech 4 · 0 1

Distributor rotates counter clock wise your #1 should be left of center Dist. rotor pointing slightly at the passengers side valve cover 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 around. A very common mistake is to beleave the marks on the front pulley. The rubber inside the harmonic balancer may have slipped. Just a suggestion remove #1 left front plug and turn the engine thru till the piston tops out. That is top dead center now use white out or white or any color you can see well with the timing light to mark the pulley. Mark it at the big notch you can use this mark to give you a true (0) degree but after the engine runs a while the mark will shift so also place a mark on the hub of the balancer to the outside of tha balancer so you can watch and see if it is turning on the hub.

2007-08-21 07:30:36 · answer #4 · answered by John Paul 7 · 0 1

pull plug on no1 cylender when your piston is at top dead center you should be on your no1 position with your rotor check your plug wires make sure you have them right if you took the distributor out you may be 180 out when you check to see if you are top dead center check your marks on your fly wheel see if your marks are lined up if not turn one rotation and check again then check your rotor turn motor with ratchet on front crank not with your ignition when i mean 1 ratation i mean till your piston goes all the way down and back up again

2007-08-21 14:41:26 · answer #5 · answered by Paul 2 · 0 1

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