You don't mention how long you've had the tank running, type of fish, color of the "cloudiness", or what parameters you're testing, all of which would contribute to giving you an accurate answer.
If your tank is new (running for less than 2 months) and the cloudiness is white, your tank may still be cycling. This is when you have bacteria multiplying quiclky to take advantage of the ammonia produced by your fish which they use as a food source. The ammonia is toxic to your fish, but the bacteria convert it to nitrite (also toxic), then to nitrate, which isn't toxic in moderate amounts. As long as there's more ammonia and nitrite than the bacteria can convert, they multiply at a rapid rate, and this can give the water a cloudy appearance (what's generally called "New Tank Syndrome"). Once the bacteria are present in enough numbers that all the ammonia and nitrite are being converted, the reproduction will slow and the cloudiness will go away on its own.
You can get prolonged periods of cycling if you try to clean the tank too well (thinking this will remove the cause of the cloudiness, but in reality, all you're doing is reducing the amount of bacteria so they continue to reproduce). You should only be doing partial water changes (15% twice a week to 25% once a week or as water tests show necessary). Overfeeding also contributes because extra food=extra poop, and excess food also produces ammonia as it decomposes. In both of these cases, the cloudiness will appear white.
If the cloudiness is another color, it may be due to a different cause. Brown/yellow tints are from driftwood or dying plants/leaves as chemicals within these will leach out in the water as these decompose. Also, a buildup of organic material from poop and excess foods will create this color in the water. If the cloudiness is green, the problem may be a free-floating algae in the water.
Since you mention having an algae problem, you must have some excess nutrients in the tank for it to grow. It may not show up on your tests if the algae is present in a high enough amount to absorb it. Algae doesn't affect ammonia or nitrite, but uses nitrate as well as phosphate as "fertilizers". Rather than resorting to chemicals to remove these, it would be best to start with lighting (if you don't keep live plants) and water changes as controls. As long as there's indirect light in the room so the fish can tell day from night, it's not necessary to use tank lighting at all - this is more for you to see than for your fish. Try turning the lights off for several days - if there's no light for photosynthesis, the algae can't produce its own food and will die. Back this up with proper feeding (only give the fish what they can eat in 2-3 minutes, twice a day) and weekly water changes to reduce possible nutrients from the tank. Using a gravel vacuum to clean the "gunk" out of the gravel will also help if you don't do this already.
Also, what you have in the tank may not be algae but cyanobacteria - see photo in this link: http://www.aquamax.de/Shop/Artikelbilder/Zusatzbilder/Algen%20im%20Aquarium_Blaualgen%20-%20Cyanobacteria_STUG_cyano1.jpg
The important testing for you to be finding results for are ammonia and nitrite (these will let you know if your tank is cycling - ideally, the levels of both will be zero in a cycled tank, and they should be kept below 0.5ppm if the tank is cycling with fish) and nitrate (this is the "final" product of the ammonia and nitrite conversion, and can only be removed by plants [as a fertilizer] or by you by doing water changes. If you're testing the water using paper strips, these can go bad quickly if they are exposed to any moisture or aren't handled properly. Liquid test kits are better, but the reagents can go bad after 4-5 years. I'd also recommend geting your store to test a sample of your water to be sure your test results are correct (if you're having your store run the tests, take a sample to a second store for comparison).
http://www.fishlore.com/CloudyWater.htm
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/algae/algcont.shtml
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/algae/cyano.shtml
2007-08-20 03:52:03
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answer #1
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answered by copperhead 7
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You are probably grossly over-feeding. The cloudiness is a bacteria "bloom".The way to remedy the situation is to reduce the amount of nutrients in the system. Some care must be exercised to avoid damaging the beneficial bacteria in your system.
Water changes must be kept small,no more than 20%.
When doing these water changes siphon as much of the left-over food and "stuff" out of the gravel,but stop when you get to the 20% level of water removal.
The replacement water must be pretreated (chlorine/chloramine remover) and very near the aquarium temperature.
Stop overfeeding,one SMALL feeding a day,is all that's necessary.
Remove algae from the glass with a scraper, and siphon out the scrapings so as not to recycle the nutrients.
Do the water changes every day until the gravel is all cleaned,then go to every two or three days until the algae growth slows. Then twice a week until the water clears. This will mean that what ever nurtient the unwanted "cloudy" bacteria were living on is gone. Then go to one 20 or 30 % water change once a week.
This process is a slow one,but it will keep you fish safe and healthy while solving your problem.
Be patient,and don't try to cut corners or hurry up the process.
Good luck and watch the overfeeding.
2007-08-20 10:40:58
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answer #2
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answered by PeeTee 7
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Some factors that contribute to algea growth and overall cloudiness will be your light exposure, nitrate levels, phosphate levels and your temps. What levels are you checking? Most kits for testing would basically just have nitrate testing and the other nitrogen cycle testings. I haven't seen one yet testing for phosphates, yet that is a key element in plant and algea growth. I've employed phosphate removing elements in my tanks and have noticed significant reductions in algea build up, and combined this with using a product called Algone you can order online. Another reason you can have cloudiness is a bacterial bloom, but this is typically associated with new tanks growing out the necessary bacteria to oxidize those nitrogen cycle compounds. If attacking this problem by removing phosphates and using Algone to control does not work, try a simple water clairifyer and see if that helps. Approach the phosphate issue first and control using Algone.
JV
2007-08-20 10:04:17
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answer #3
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answered by I am Legend 7
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As I have had an aquarium in the past, don't overfeed the fish. They can survive on 2 feedings a day. Also replace your aquarium filter and you may even get an algae eater fish. They do a great job at being cleaners of tanks.
2007-08-20 10:07:43
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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i had this prob with my tank and i found doing a partial water change helped xx
2007-08-20 10:20:15
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answer #5
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answered by greyhound mummy 4
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I use aqua clear and it really helps it makes the water clearer.
2007-08-20 10:25:30
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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