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5 answers

FRONT BRAKES:

REMOVE WHEELS AND SUPPORT VEHICLE.

ONE SIDE AT A TIME, REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER AND SET ASIDE, CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL, HAVE THE ROTORS MACHINED, SPRAY METAL SIDE WITH BRAKE QUITE, CORRECT TOOLS NEED FOR THE NEXT STEP BUT YOU CAN USE A LARGE C-CLAMP TO COMPRESS THE CALIPER PISTON.

INSTALL NEW PADS AND RE-SECURE BRAKE CALIPER, CHECK FLUID AND PUMP UP BRAKE PEDAL.

SAME FOR OTHER SIDE.


REAR BRAKES W/ ROTORS.

SAME AS ABOVE.


REAR BRAKES W/ DRUMS.

SIMILAR TO ABOVE BUT YOU WILL NEED SOME TYPE OF HELP DUE TO THE HARDWARE THAT IS INVOLVED.


IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE, TAKE IT TO YOUR LOCAL INDEPENDENT AUTO REPAIR SHOP, NOT A CHAIN STORE OR THE DEALER.

2007-08-17 09:28:27 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 5 0

This is from a Tacoma forum, and applies to your truck:

Only remove the calipers if the rotors need to be turned. Leave them in place for just a pad change. It's much easier and quicker. I machine the rotors only when needed usually every 2nd or 3rd pad change. Check the surface and if it is rough with deep pits or if there was any metal to metal contact then machine the rotors. It costs about $5 each and only takes a few minutes at the local tire shop or auto parts store. You should get 2 or 3 machinings from each rotor before they go below specs (which is about .026 I believe).

I NEVER buy after market cheapo pads. They wear horribly and I end up changing them twice as much as original Toyota pads. When it comes to brake pads, you truly get what you pay for! With cheap pads, you'll change your rotors more often and at $120 a piece your not saving anything.

Its really easy to change the pads:

1) Remove tire
2) Remove the retaining clips from the end of the upper and lower pins then remove pins. (Make sure to note how the "W" spring is installed BEFORE you remove it)
3) Slide out one pad, they usually need to be pried a little bit but not much. Then remove the shims and place them on the new pad. No need to use any goop on the shims. They don't require it.
4) Take two pry bars, wrenches, socket handles anthing that will fit between the pistons and the rotor (I used wire cutters and neddle nose pliers on my wife's Sequoia just today) then carefully and slowly pry both pistons open SIMULTANEOUSLY. Try to keep them as even as possible and only open them enough to slip in the new pad. This pushes brake fluid back into the resevoir so don't overdo it or the res could overflow. (This could happen anyway if the res was full to start with).
5) Slide the new pad in and repeat with the other pad.
6) Insert pins throught the holes on the caliper and both pads. Make sure to reinstall the W spring correctly. Start by inserting the wire ends into the holes then swivel the loops down where the pin goes through them.
7) Insert retaining clip into the holes in the end of the pins.

Repeat on other side.

If you do have to remove the calipers do it only after you have removed the pads and don't try to install the caliper with the pads in. Its just so much harder to do it that way.

2007-08-20 10:25:30 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Pull the calipers on the front and remove the pads. Open up the bleeder screw and push the pistons back into the calipers and then close the bleeder screw. Install the new pads and reinstall the calipers. When you are done, bleed the brakes to be sure there is no air in the system.

2007-08-17 09:22:56 · answer #3 · answered by Fordman 7 · 0 0

Unless you have the tools and a lot of time, this is not something you just up and do. Your brakes are comprised of the shoes (calipers) and the disc. A brake shop is able to pull the spindles and properly measure and resurface the discs if needed.

2007-08-17 09:23:18 · answer #4 · answered by Doug A 2 · 0 0

on the area of the tranny (frequently the driving force's area) is a plug. in maximum cases a three/8 ratchet will fit into the sq. socket of the plug . get rid of plug. Stick your finger interior the hollow. if your finger is moist, the tranny is complete. if your finger is dry, the tranny is low. to empty the tranny, there is yet another plug on the backside area. Drain, replace backside plug, upload fluid via area hollow (see proprietors handbook for volume), whilst fluid comes out area hollow its complete, replace area plug. Now for the complicated area. you're able to be able to desire to verify the proprietors handbook to make certain if your tranny takes computerized tranny fluid (Dextron II) or axle oil (ninety weight). different trannys, even via the comparable corporation will take different fluids because of their layout.

2016-10-10 10:49:26 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

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