Cant seem to lower ammonia levels:S?

Question

I have one of the in tank monitors for ammonia level in my new uncycled 10 gallon. I had figured that if the ammonia got too high I could just do a partial water change to maintain good levles. When the ammonia got just slightly high we did a like 30% water change with a siphon. The next day the ammonia had only gotten higher. After it still hadnt evened out after like two days we did another water change. Still we saw no difference in the ammonia level. Even if our filter wasnt working it should have lowered the levels a bit simply by diluting the concentration of ammonia in the water. We are using the Live NH3 ammonia monitor (in tank) by Mardel. We had thought that maybe it just doesnt reset after the ammonia levels elevate and have put the test in clean water in a glass to see if it resets. Does anyone have any experience with this. After a few water changes within maybe a week we are still seeing the test read only higher and higher levels. HELP!!

BTW there is only one fish in it atm and it is a tiny ryukin. It may also be important to note that judging by our test the water should be full of ammonia but he is swimming happlily, his breathing is normal, he is eating eagerly, and stays near the middle of the tank where he should be. The only strange behavior we have noticed is his habit of swimming upstream in the current created by the filter dumping the water back in the tank, but even this is brief and then he goes back to exploring his gravel and plants. It seems like he could even just be playing, so judging by his patterns it seems like the water is perfectly fine. Since the test says its nearly toxic I have no clue what to think:S

Ok as usual i am going to have to add an incredible amount of details. First off stop with the "you shouldnt have the fish in a 10 gallon" trip plz because he was a rescue and it was an uncycled 10 gal. or a 1 gallon bowl while the tank cycled. Believe me his prior circumstances were worse. I know the 10 gal per 3'' of fish rule. He is a baby and under 3'', when he exceeds 3'' he will get a larger tank. Right now I am testing the test to see if it lowers. I would really like to know if anyone has used this test before and had good results not only with it increasing in ammonia level but also reading a decrease. It has been sitting in treated tap water in a cup for about 30 mins with no change in the reading. This causes me some suspicion but we are just waiting still.I should also have elaborated more on the fact that i am not seeing a change in ammonia even immediately after a water change. The level has constantly increased despite all the water changes. Never dropped, any advice?

Also my primary question isnt an expression of concern over the existing levels, its confusion as to why the levels have never dropped even after a water change. I am wondering if the meter is flaky. Hopefully someone can tell me wether it is normal to see no change in the ammonia level. A constant increase even after a signifigant water change seems "fishy" to me.

Answer 1

Ditto to Ghost, I'm really liking this lady!! She's giving on target analysis on water chemistry I've seen in other answers and it's refreshing to see written out explanations kudos to you GF!!

I can say that what she is saying about that live monitor is right on. Basically, that live monitor is nothing more then a fancy test strip that wears out and needs replacement over time. The best thing you can do for yourself, to get a reliable accurate reading is get a liquid testing kit and while your tank is cycling out, take readings from that.

Ok so we'll not go into your population/tank issues, enough said, I can read and comprehend lol

I think the ammonia is lowering actually and you are just getting false readings from that live reader. Fish behavior will be another indicator. If the ammonia was excessivly high you'd most likely see the fish near the top of the water breathing rapidly as this is the onset of ammonia poisoning. If you are not seeing that in conjunction with your live reader, I'm inclined to say your reading is false.

I'd reccomend getting the liquid drop testers, and reduce your feedings to once a day, only as much as the fish can eat entirely in 2-3 minutes. That will suffice and your Goldfish is not going to die from starvation, I promise you. Fish do not use food in the same manners you and I do. Being a cold blooded animal, they do not have to internally heat themselves nor use the food as a source of energy to fight off disease. Excess food in the water is a strong source of ammonia and excess feedings directly means excess waste which ultimately means, more ammonia as well.

Stay on top of the water changes and do not give up on it. Just for the hell of it too, run a check on your tap water source ones you get the testing kit, and see if it's reading ammonia in there, because like you said, it should be lowering. Just rule that possibility out.

If you need further help feel free to email me direct via my profile.

JV

Answer 2

Ammonia works slowly and won't show effects on your fish early. You will see toxic effects later. BTW, your fish is not one to be kept in a 10 gallon tank. Goldfish should have 10 gallons per 3" of fish.

A few things could be happening...

The monitor could be wrong. I've never used a monitor because I've heard nothing but bad reviews and wrong results. I'd test with a liquid kit as well to compare.

You may have chloramines in your water. Chloramines show up as ammonia when tested. Even after adding dechlor, they still show on the test, but the dechlor makes them non-toxic to the fish. You can test your tap water and see if it has an ammonia level. If so, these are chloramines. Whatever your tap water tests at for ammonia will be your zero point for the tank--(if the tap tests for .75, than .75 in your tank means everything is normal, and anything above that means ammonia is present) Be sure to use dechlor.

OR the ammonia given off by the fish is just too much for the tank as is. If the monitor showed lower levels immediately after the water change, and higher levels the next day, than there is more ammonia. It takes more than a 30% change to subdue a large ammonia spike.

Answer 3

Those ammonia monitors are notoriously untrustworthy. The dip strips are better but also not 100% reliable. The test kits that use the drops work the best. People with a lot of tanks usually get the test strips for daily monitoring and then if they see an odd reading they will retest the tank that read weird with a drop kit. Try taking your water in to a fish store and have them do a test for you to see if your ammonia monitor is reading right. If it is, keep doing the daily water changes. You can go as high as 50% if you are worried the levels are severely toxic for your fish, but don't change more water than that or you will just halt your cycle. Ammonia spikes are normal during cycling. For more help on cycling, check the link below.

Answer 4

I can't speak for the accuracy of the ammonia meter, but I can say that your ammonia is peaking and it will take another few days to a week for them to drop. After your ammonia drops, you will have issues with nitrite. That can last for 6-8 weeks or so. Water changes may not seem like they are diluting the ammonia, but they aren't going to hurt it either. If you have any other fish tanks in your house or if you have any friends that have ones, some gravel from their tank or even some "juice" from a dirty filter will be loaded with bacteria and will help jump start the cycling process. Feel free to email me if you have any questions.

Answer 5

Hi Kii, I would certainly be testing the water with a conventional liquid test kit [strips are not very accurate] then you will know for certain whether your meter is giving you an incorrect reading. From what you say about your water changes coupled with your fishes behaviour all the evidence point to a faulty meter. I would trust liquid tests over all other methods every time.

Answer 6

Okay, let me see if I understand. You're starting out with one ryukin and an uncycled tank, so you're cycling with fish. In other words, your tank wasn't pre-cycled. Regardless, whether you use fish or fishless cycling, it takes at least 4-6 weeks for a tank to cycle. And cycling with fish can sometimes take longer. It's going to take time. Cycling is one of the hardest things to do. Not because of what's involved, but because of how much patience is required. Just keep with the program, keep doing water changes and keep testing. It will eventually happen. Just be patient.

Answer 7

Three no,four things you should know----Keep doing the water changes(every two or three days),----It takes several weeks to grow the bacteria colonies that keep your fish alive,---- you should have a more accurate ammonia test,---- and fish-less cycling is much more humane than your method.

Answer 8

It sounds like your tank cycle is now pretty much in the middle
It's expected to spike, after that it will fall and nitrate readings will be positiv

hope that helps
Good luck


EB

you're doing good