Engine question for a 350 small block.?

Question

I'm thinking about getting a summit racing top end performance kit. This includes heads, manifold, and carb. I am a beginner. Is it as easy as bolting this stuff on? Or should I use a mechanic? Will I need to change anything else in the motor for it to run smooth?

Answer 1

Yes, it's pretty much just bolt on, but.. Here's my thoughts..

The kits are around $1600, and it's really a "1 size fits all" type kit. Still don't have all of the parts you need to do it right eaither, will not make the most power it can for you, some parts are tame, some are more than you need, etc, etc

I would buy each part. In other words make your own kit.

I take it you have a stock 350 right? If not please edit your question or Email me and I can go over it with you.

Being stock, you will probbly have 72 to 76cc heads now, dish pistons, 7.8 to 8.5:1 compression.

Your not building a max rpm engine from the sound of it.. So you will want to stick with around 180cc intake runner heads and you will want smaller cc chambers (60-64cc) to get compression up.

Brodix IK and RR heads are the best bang for the buck right now.

Here's what I would do...

Brodix IK 180cc, 64cc chambers, 2.02"/1.60" valves, alum heads $1059.95 from summit, or $995.99 from jegs.

Edelbrock performer RPM intake $140

Summit push rods # G6400 $27 (need hardened pushrods when using guide plates)

Fel Pro # 1094 head gaskets (4.100" x .015" thick) coated steel shim. This will get you more compression, plus tighten up your quench. $20 each

Fel pro #1205 intake gaskets $15

Crane power max 272-2 cam kit #113942 about $160

ARP head bolt kit #134-3601 $60

Edelbrock #1405 600 cfm carb $250

Pick up rest of your gaskets (timing cover, water pump, valve covers, etc) at parts store $15 or so.

Total for all of that comes in under $1700

You end up with a better match kit for your engines, better parts, more power, etc.

Now to make this work right though, you will need a set of headers, good exhaust (dual 2.25" pipes, or single 3" ) good flowing muffler(s)

The cam I listed is tame enough to work with stock torque converter but you will get more out of it if you put a 2400-2800 stall converter in.

As far as putting all these parts on.. You can do it your self.. All you really need is a torque wrench and common sence.

The cam /timing chain will be the hardest thing for you to install right and it's still pretty easy to do.

Coat cam lobes with moly lube, bottom of lifters with moly lube... Install cam in engine.. Put upper timing gear and chain on cam, making sure the dot marked on upper gear is pointing straight down (6 o'clock) and lines up with dot marked on bottom gear that needs to be pointing straight up (12 o'clock)...tighten bolts to 20 ft lbs.

Now when everything is done and together.. Add the bottle of cam break in lube to your oil..

Fire engine up, bring RPMs straight up to 2,000 rpm.. Do not let engine idle, don't not let RPMs drop below 2,000

Keep playing with throttle moving RPMs up and down between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm..

Do that for 20-30 min. straight.

Shut engine down, drain oil, take filter off, put on new filter and new oil.. Your cam is broke in the right way now.

Answer 2

If I were you I wold give it a shot only if you have guidance from a Friend, mechanic, or anybody with engine building knowledge. There are a lot of tips and trick that the pros no that will make this build a better experience. The last thing you want to do is spend a ton of money on this kit and take the chance of something bad happening over something that could of been easily prevented. As far as changing anything else iam not to sure. Most of the time when you do just a manifold/carb/cam kit you will need headers so iam guessing you will definitely need a full exhaust system. Also with the added combustion and fuel intake you will probably need a higher voltage ignition and good set of plugs/wires. Its always a good idea to get a new water pump depending on the old one if you are swapping all of this stuff out-might as well it's gonna be real easy to do if all of this other stuff is off.

Answer 3

I think what mountain top is getting at is that your exhaust may limit your performance gains from the top end swap you're doing. The Summit kits you are talking about have been tested to provide the optimal gains for that configuration. So they (summit) should be able to suggest exhaust upgrades to go with the kits. I'd have to look at my catalog but do the kits include a cam? if not you'll need a cam kit too. Another thing to consider is how well your engine can handle the upgrades, placing to much power into a weak motor will only cause more problems.

AS far a being a beginner job... not really, unless you have experienced Friends or family to call or even come by to help. If you have no or little experience and no one willing to help guide you through that process hire someone to do the job (which will add to the price...)

Answer 4

You can get one of those high performance harmonic balancers. The stock harmonic balancers are primitive technology and the after market options add as much as 15 HP since they reduce that invisable vibration in the crankshaft that is created by the pistons driving the connecting rods down hard on the crankshaft and transmitting vibration from the combustion "explosion".

You should get a Chilton or Haynes repair book at your local auto parts store and read it several times so that you can, in theory, put it together in your head.

Then just take your time and do it right the first time and ask questions if you get stuck or unsure about something.

Don't talk to someone who thinks they know, talk to someone who's been there and done that.

You'll need a torque wrench and sockets and extensions and some patience.

The hardest thing that you will encounter is adjusting the push rods/rocker arms.unless the new heads have a mechanical stop so you don't have to tweak the rocker arms with the valve covers off and the motor running. There is a tedious process to this but so long as you don't freak out when everything starts rattling when you fire it up the first time, you'll get through it.

Just follow the book and or have someone there to help you with this difficult task.

Good Luck!

Answer 5

I bought one of those top end kits and while the are great your short block needs to be in good shape with high compression pistons to make the kit run right. Other wise it will cough and sputer all the time, and even with the proper short block its not street friendly.

If you want a hot small block that you can drive, and won't chew up the gas. Call Skoggin Dickey and get his Improved Vortec heads. Then call summit racing and get a edelbrock air-gap manifold, Comp Cam 270 flat tappet, and electric fan kit for your car. The get ahold of a used holley 650 vacum secondary, and get it re-built by PC carb in Ontario Ca. You should get about 320 horse 400 lbft torque, and can drive it anywhere.

If you have more questions e-mail me. Bill

Answer 6

Basically the engine is an air pump, so when it breathes better, you get more power. Heads, cam, carb size (with correct primaries and secondaries), and exhaust manifolds, pipes, converter (if you have one) sizes also matter a lot.

If you change out one item (the heads) without changing out everything else - you're just not going to get all the benefits. You have simply shifted the bottleneck in the air flow from one spot to another. Everything needs to be sized together for optimal performance.

Answer 7

cool,before you buy all that stuff, figure out how much power you want out of the motor. Heads are what you really want to chunk the money into. You may also want to consider rebuilding the lower end before doing the bolt ons.

It's an easy job to do not very hard at all. If you are just starting out it shold take about a day to complete. make sure you have someone helping you out who know what they are doing

Answer 8

Those parts are very easy to bolt on..... your engine should run smooth with those parts.... I would put in a performance cam if your going to tear the engine down.... then a nice 4 barrel carb on top, like a edelbrock 700CFM.

Answer 9

a 350 is a 350 it fits in lots of diffrent chevys. in california you can probly get 300 bucks tops cause those motors are a dime a dozen and your not offering any kind of warranty so 3 bills is probly most unless you find some sucker..good luck and theres prbly no oil in it so dont turn it over to much okay

Answer 10

Well im 14 and heres the motor I built:

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa220/garretkamine/Garretsengine2007013.jpg