The car would not start. I just got that clicking sound you get when the battery is no putting out enough power. I had the battery checked; it tested bad. I replaced the battery and everything was fine. 2 days later, the check battery lamp came back on. I tightened the connectors and thelamp extenguished. 2 days later, it's back on and won't go off....The car starts and runs fine.
2007-08-10 11:30:29 · 7 answers · asked by Andy K 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
no yes who know read the insructions.
2007-08-10 11:34:16 · answer #1 · answered by cookiemonster508 2 · 0⤊ 2⤋
Go to a mechanic or a battery store like Batteries Plus and have your alternator testes. When your check battery light comes on its usually because you have an issue with your battery OR charging system. It is also possible it needs to be reset if its a newer model. Pulling the negative cable trick may not work on newer vehicles too. Make sure the when you get a battery tested it is tested correctly. Ask questions on how they tested. To test a battery it must be fully charged. If not one must try to charge it, 12.65 is fully charged. If it does not charge then its can be considered bad. If it takes a full charge then the next step is to apply a load to see if it holds it, If it holds its good. If these steps are not followed then it is not a test but a guess.
2007-08-10 11:40:01 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you have a multimeter test the voltage on the battery with the engine off. It should be at least 12V. Start the engine and test the battery again, this time it should read,close to 14V. If you do not get at least 13.5 then the alternator is a problem. That saves you from having to pull the battery cable. Since you just replaced the battery, I would think that the terminals are clean. good luck
2007-08-10 12:03:25 · answer #3 · answered by Fordman 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
What do you recommend by no codes? If the test gadget communicates and the equipment comments no codes you're good. although, i'm questioning you recommend the test gadget is encountering a failure whilst attempting to examine codes. Does the test gadget potential up precise? there's a fuse which supplies potential to the diagnostic port under the sprint to potential test equipment. interior the cabin fuse block there are a set of connectors on one element and 2 relays (small plastic packing boxes) on the different. examine the middle fuse (a pink 10 Amp, reported as fuse 14 in schematics) of the 2nd row in from the relays. this could be marked on the fuse field conceal as a know-how hyperlink or OBDII fuse, probable additionally reported as diagnostic. If the motor vehicle is working nice yet a test gadget can't examine codes (it does not record a ideal message whilst no codes are in reminiscence) there is the two a difficulty with the potential to the test gadget, the ok-line driver interior the ECUs, or the ok-line diagnostic twine from the ECUs to the diagnostic port.
2016-12-11 16:25:38 · answer #4 · answered by barreda 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
You may need to replace the battery contacts, as they might be bad. Beyond that, your alternator could be bad, which would have caused the failure of the 1st battery. Try to start your truck and remove the negative battery terminal while running (at your own risk, proper ventilation and eye protection recommended) - if the truck dies, the alternator is bad.
2007-08-10 11:36:26 · answer #5 · answered by Sky 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
the light indicates that the alternator is no longer charging. it doesn't mean that the battery is bad. the voltage regulator inside the alternator controls the charging of the battery. when it senses that there is a problem with the alternator, it will turn on the light.
make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals, that they are tight, make sure that all fuses are good. if all good..... needs alternator.
2007-08-10 11:43:39 · answer #6 · answered by Gary G 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If it's a newer model, you might just need to have the ecu reset.
2007-08-10 12:09:46 · answer #7 · answered by FORD-MAN 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋