Can some one give me a step by step process to Tiling our kitchen floor?

Question

I am wanting to put tile down in our kitchen. Could you please give me what products I will need and the step by step process to tiling the floor ...thanks!

Answer 1

This Q has been asked and answered often, and can be checked thru Q&A search, pretty much because detailing it here is lengthy.

After installing multiple thousands of sq. ft of tile though, I'd be happy to detail deeper in e mail.

The obvious; is measure the room; and choose a tile style and size. The size might be best dictated by the size of the area you want to cover? The examples are also pretty obvious as for the most part they relate to "Feet" either in 12 inch or larger/combined.

Not knowing at all what the finish of the floor is currently; that is an issue. I remove any existing finish surface.

Once the sub floor prep has been accomplished; the floor checked for level/ voids/rises, then it's time to "Square" the room.

The point is to measure and depending on your choice of tile size; determine the layout. To SQUARE a room run two perpendicular lines, SNAPPED, as close to a center point as possible. From those intersecting lines, determine the layout. I usually do LAY out a course in either direction to best get an idea of the finish and any cuts.

Example: In a room that measures 12 ft wide for instance; and your choice is 12 " tiles...You'll add an inch to the tile size every 4 tiles,,,for grout lines. Assume then; at the perimeter you'll have CUTS. Lay out the center allowing that cuts are either on One side, that might not be so visible,,, or split the difference if need be. That equates to actually being able to move OFF the center lines, depending on your room size, layout, and and obstructions etc. It might also be important if you transition to an adjacent room.

Once the sub floor has been prepped; well cleaned; and your layout determined; I suggest remove any cove base molding. begin in that middle; but allow that you won't PAINT (Tile) yourself into a corner you can't get out of. Using the proper mortar ( I use a Poly Blend Thin Set); Mix a Bucket to allow that you work in small, easy to manage areas, IE: 16 sq. ft. at a time, always moving away from the set tiles.

I use a flat edge blade Mortar trowel, with 1/4 inch teeth. Once the mortar is applied, excess moved to an empty space and NO voids are left; then place your first and every piece. Use rubber spacers to keep the grout lines and tiles running straight. Press GENTLY Down on the tile. No need to mash into the mortar with a heavy hand. I use a level, and my hand to determine one flush with any adjacent. You can use the rubber spacers to remove any mortar squeezed up into the grout lines.

Save CUTS for last, and make them all at the same time, to install the next day. 24 hours is usual for mortar set/dry. The issue should allow that your cuts are the same width AT LEAST, as a grout line...from the perimeter walls, cabinets, etc. For kitchens I usually remove/move both the stove and oven...NOT the cabinets. If you have pantry or closets in the kitchen they will likely need additional cuts.

Once the cuts have been set, and another 24 hours perhaps,,,if you have the time,,, then begin the grout.

That... AS SHOULD the Mortar,,, be mixed to the consistency of mashed potato. The issue with grout is that it sets in the bucket a bit faster than mortar so again,,,work small areas. Again,,, I use a Poly blend.

With a paint stick; paint scraper; etc. ; and/or the rubberized Grouting trowel you'll have to buy (I suggest 2 or more) WORK the grout into the grout lines, allowing that it presses to the sub floor, and you get out any possible air bubbles, which will become VOIDS.

Trowel at angles to the grout lines. The process is designed to use the TOOL as a squeegie, and at angles you aid the leveling of the grout. Again,,,work small areas and have help if possible. One to apply, one to clean after.

In that small area, take the FLAT, large GROUT sponge, Just Damp; and wipe at angles, as you did with the squeegie; to get up any excess grout. As the grout sets the sponging can be increasingly more WET. That process,,, if the squeegie was done correctly, can be 3 stages. The grout will be just below the actual floor tile surface, but should fill to the depressed edges of the tile piece. Once you gotten the grout to what seems to be relatively clean,,,STOP wiping. Don't over sponge or over wet, in the process, WATER,,,as needed as it is, also inhibits or degrades the AGENTS in mortar or grout.

Within another 24 hours you'll see a film on the tile. That can be mopped away.

Given the proper procedures and timing, the floor can be walked on and used by the third day hopefully. When replacing tables/ chairs/ bakers shelving/ etc. Carry the piece to its place; don't drag it across the new floor.

Replace the cove base; hiding the free space and any possible OOOPS.

Buy no less than 10 % OVER what you need; for waste and cuts. BTW... My thought about equalizing cuts in size might equate to using ONE piece of full tile, for TWO pieces of CUT tile at the perimeters.

Steven Wolf

If I've confused you or left out any detail,,,e mail me.

Answer 2

It has a lot of steps and this is a very basic view, 1: prepare the surface 2: layout the installation 3: mix the bonding cement (usually thin set) 4: Lay tile by applying thin set properly and keep tile level, make all the irregular tile cuts. 5: After all the the tile is set and cement is dry grout tile with a float. 6: clean tile and ( seal grout optional step ).I have said this before no amount of rhetoric is worth hands on experience,its like one picture is worth a thousand words. Home supply stores like Lowes and Home Depot offer tile installing seminars periodically I suggest you attend one to see if you even really even want to attempt doing it yourself. Just some friendly advice good luck.

Answer 3

1- demollation prosses
tools need : glass , hammer and a flat re-bar
after old tiles gone make smooth any un even area
2- installation
a- messure your kitchen (wide and long) to see how many Sf is it.
b- select your tile (no slipery kinds)
c- From entery of kitchen calculate soled tile till end of kitchen (if need cut tile let be in end not to entry)
d- frome open wall side to cabinet side of kitchen (cut under cabinet side.
e- there's two way to install(with or without space between tiles)if use space you need spacers plastic 3/16"or 1/4"or 5/16" it's up to you.
f- make straight line from on side to other side (your guide line) for install first row in level line
tools need : tile cutter , measure tape , tilling putty knif,mortar concrete or tile adhesive,spacers , grout , sponge , plastic gloves , level minimum 24" long
HOW TO APPLY CONCRETE :
1- make mortar concrete in one bucket and mix very well(kind of paste form)
2- apply in floor and drag your putty knife from side that has zigzal on it in concrete ( will give you same shape and same size material in floor
3- put the tile in water and take out and dry by a rug then install tile in concrete area put level on top of the tile in two direction make level and push the tile down gentelly (NOT TOO MUCH PRESSURE)
4 - put spacer in edge of the tile if you going to install with space between
5- countinue till finish tilling
6- Leave the area 48 hours without walking on
7- take spacers out by some thing sharp (no scratching tile)
8- make grout same color or texture of combine color
9- Apply between tiles by putty knife and clean extra by moisted sponge
10- let 24 hours to dry the grout
11- then make a liqidish grout and apply in all cross of the tiles by a soft broom ( to make sure fill the cracks and un filled area)
12- after 2 or 3 hours by a relif rug clean all the tiles ,THEN YOU HAVE IT.

Answer 4

yes go to the hard ware store and hire a mexican because if you dont know how to tile you really dont want to tile trust me

Answer 5

There are so many steps to list here, but don't let that scare you off. Go to DIYnetwork.com. They have great step by step instructions.

Answer 6

Home depot sells do it yourself video tapes for almost any home project. They're only about $5.