How should I prune my 16 year old weeping mulberry tree?

Question

The branches are intertwined and very large, should I cut all branches back to the trunk?

Answer 1

I did find a discussion thread on this when I searched online:

http://www.backyardgardener.com/forums/forum14/760.html

At one point they said that you should never cut back more that 25% of your tree. I agree. It tends to be that only in rare circumstances should you ever cut more than approx. 33%. When cutting anything, it would be best to cut the growth you do not want all the way back to its beginning or joint. If it is a forked branch and you want half to go, cut it at the fork. If you want the whole branch gone, to the trunk. The thread also mentioned a bleach solution, I recommend this, but make sure it is a 10% solution. 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. I believe that at the bottom of the thread there was additional links as to pruning methods, you might want to check those out. I'm a fan of having your books, I have tons (and I mean TONS) on plants, and yes, I actually read them...LOL...you might want to look into one on shrubs and trees. They are often well worth the money when it comes to caring for a beautiful plant, especially one that you have invested a decade and a half (+) in! Hope this helped!

Answer 2

Mulberry Tree Pruning

Answer 3

First, don't cut it back to the trunk! That's topping and one of the most destructive things you can do to a tree! No, short of cutting it down, it IS the most destructive thing you can do!

Topping is what you describe. If you had started this when the tree was young and made the same total cuts every year at the same spot building up a mighty callus knobs in the process, the procedure would be pollarding and that's acceptable.

Second, no pruning paint! It causes more problems than it solves.

Third, none of this leave 1-2 inches when cutting! Learn now to prune correctly! http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/cuts.htm

Now, as for what to do with this mess.....most people don't mess with weeping mulberries. The task is daunting.

First, anything on the ground is fair game for removal.

Second, look for crossing or rubbing branches and remove the wounded back at it's insertion. (where does it begin......it maybe the trunk or a side branch)

Third, thin as you think necessary throughout the entire canopy. Most people only work a tree until their ladder gives out. Actually you should take more from the top than from the bottom.....but then who of us has a hydraulic lift to get up there?

Fourth, don't strip out the middle, it's called lion's tailing and puts all the foliage weight out at the tip when it should be closer to the trunk.

Frankly with a weeping mulberry I'd get thru step two and call it quits.

Answer 4

Weeping Mulberry Tree

Answer 5

Tough situation you are in. The tree needs to have air movement, water absorption, and room to grow. Severe cut backs often place a tree in shock and should be avoided. What you may want to do now is plan. Plan on what you want the tree to look like and prepare for your actions.
Do not even attempt to prune major branches until the tree has turned colors, leaf drop, or gone completely domant. What you can do now is to identify any dead, diseased, or crossing limbs that you wish to remove. Do not be dismayed if you find that a third of the tree needs removal. In addition, plan on removing any new growth from the top of the tree. Mark the branches to be removed with a bright spray paint and mark the top growth with a bright ribbon or string.
Before beginning the operation, make a three to four inch trench about two foot from the dripline of the tree. In this trench you are going to put either a 10-10-10 with minerals granular fert, or feeding stakes (your preference). This will make the tree rebound in the spring. Keep the trench available for future feedings and do another in Mid-May.
A normal Chain Saw is fine for removing the top and most of the limbs. You will need a good ladder to get to the root of the problem. You will need to hand-saw the removed limbs at a 45% angle (45% from top) at least 1-2" from the trunk. You can purchase a tar based spray to cover wounds for trees, leave it alone, or I have found using a Citronela (mosiquito repellant) candle rubbed on the wound works just great.
After the "surgery" use a hand pruner device to both raise the tree and any growth you did not want. Again, plan the shape ahead of time. In the very early spring remove all growth from under the tree and mulch with a shredded hardwood mulch at two inches. Remove the growth to the trench. Place the mulch two inches from the trunk. Water so that the tree has 1" of water every week throughout the season. A Soaker hose placed under the mulch is ideal for this. Run twice a week will activate the fert, meet the water needs, and invigorate the tree.
I am at [e-mail]. I realize this is a great deal of info and work. If you hire a tree company make sure they follow these instructions.

Answer 6

prune 16 year weeping mulberry tree

Answer 7

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Before you cut anything with your fingernail scratch away the bark just a bit from the main trunk. If it is green then you can proceed with cutting back shoots. It's May and weather should be fine BUT if you are in a high elevation climate where frost is a possibility then wait until June. If you scratch the trunk and you don't find green below surface, then you may have to keep going down the trunk until you do find green and cut away all dead wood above that point. If you don't find any green at all that may be a reason for the shoots.

Answer 8

NO!!! that is what my gardener friends and i would call "a hack job" and that's one of the most distainful things we can say about another gardener's work, to be honest. don't do it. listen to fluffernut. please. proper pruning is great, it's a boon to the beauty and health of a tree, but "topping" is a trajedy, and a trees never recover from it, even IF they live.