Where is the timing chain on a motorcycle?

Question

i want to replace my timing chain on my 1978 Kawasaki KZ750
any idea on where it might be located or is thier a website i can go where they have all that stuff?

Answer 1

I'm no Einstein, but I've seen a couple of irregularities in the answers you've gotten. "Most" bikes use a timing chain of either roller like yours I believe) or link plate (Morse HyVo) located between the center two cylinders. Old Yamaha three cylinder engines had the chain on the right end I believe. I don't know about the new Gold Wings, but all the four cylinder models used a timing belt located on the front of the engine. I think there was a OHV V twin of some sort that used two long narrow timing belts, but I can't remember what it was at present.

Second is, why do you want to replace the chain? My old KZ1000 used a roller chain and after 110,000 miles it still measured out ok. The guides were sorry shape but the chain was fine. A decent shop manual will give you a pin-length measurement to determine how much the chain has "stretched" (actually they get longer because of wear, not stretching). I don't remember the distance off the top of my head, but you measure a certain number of pins , stretch the chain tight and measure from the center of each end pin. You'll need something fairly accurate like a vernier caliper and not some dirty, worn out yardstick. Replacing the chain without entirely disassembling the engine by breaking the chain, attaching the new one to the old one and feeding it through, I wouldn't try that. It sounds wonderful and may work wonderfully but first of all, the orginal chain is "endless" with no master link. First of all, you must grind off the ends if the pins (don't let the grindings fall into the engine) and using a chain breaker, push them out of the side plate. Not real easy with such a small chain. To connect the ends of the new chain, you will need a master link. The problem with that is if the retainer holding the side plate on ever pops off from sliding through the chain guides, the chain comes loose and you bend valves, damage pistons and twist the crankshaft. As far as mushrooming the ends of the pins on the master link, well, that doesn't happen easily. I've worked with roller chains of every shape and size for my entire life and those pins are VERY hard steel and don't mushroom over without a heck of a fight. In a hydraulic press maybe, but in the limited area you have to work with, nearly impossible.

If you think you need to replace the chain because of noise, most likely it's either the top idler or one of the several guides have broken or worn out (been there on both of those). The idler can be visually checked easily after removing the valve cover. Loosen the cam chain tensioner on the back side of the cylinder first to give the chain a little slack. I believe the '78s still used the manually adjusted tensioner rather than the automatic ones used on the '79s. You'll probably have a bolt that can be tightend down to lock the tensioner in place. If yours is an automatic, tighten it down snugly and back off the two bolts holding the unit in place. If the manual, just back it off while it's already locked in place. Check your manual to see if periodic adjustment is needed, if so it's a manual unit. To look at the other guides and roller; you'd need to remove the exhaust, drop the oil pan and peer up into the engine with a good light. Before you go all that work, you need to get the oil good and hot, drain it and after it cools a bit, check for any solid objects in it. Redish brown chunks are from the guides, which get brittle with age and heat. Metal pieces are something else. Use a magnet to deternime if they're steel or aluminum. Tiny steel ones are likely from the gears and are the result of the loud CLUNK when shifting and no need to worry. Aluminum shavings are the result of something hard (steel) making contact with the engine case and could be from a guide or roller gone bad. I like magnetic drain plugs because they'll catch steel shavings and give you a little advance warning of some problems.

If you think you have problems, by all means have someone knowledgeable listen to it. Removing the engine and splitting the cases is a big job and after 30 years, steel studs have a way of corroding to the aluminum case and twisting off when you try to remove them. Take my word for it, fixing that is no fun at all! In addition, replacement guides are VERY expensive from Kawasaki and aftermarket items are just about impossible to find. Throw in the necessary gasket set and you have a LOT of money invested. If you have problems serious enough to warrant splitting the engine cases and are mechanically inexperienced, I'd suggest you find a decent running replacement engine AFTER determining the problem. Sorry for the extremely long reply, but take my word that I'm very experienced not only with Kawasaki's, but every other type of engine big and small. There's been some good information here (shop manual, etc), but the last thing you need is misinformation. If you need to, email me with the symptoms and we'll take it from there.

Answer 2

Tensh and RP are right, it is between cyl 2+3 .
Remove tank and any other crap that you know how to put back (wiring +coils etc).
Then remove the camshaft cover, NOT the head.
You will see the chain.
The clymer manual (or haynes) is a great idea as you will have to remove the device that tensions the chain and know how to re-install.
Linking the new to old to route it is also a good idea.
When you have the new chain in place (buy a chain maker to make off the soft link, this is a chain link that you can fit and make fast by burring over the ends. V hard with hammer and punch).
THEN CHECK THE TIMING MARKS
Found on end of crank and on cam sprockets.
Then check again!!
Then turn the engine BY HAND.
Any prob, re check and reset.
etc etc
Definitely buy manual.

Answer 3

Before setting the timing, remove the cam chain tensioner. Press your finger in the tensioner hole to take up the slack in the chain. After setting the timing, install the tensioner and rotate the flywheel slowly in the direction it turns when running, to check the timing again. When rotating the flywheel slowly, if you feel the flywheel stop, STOP TURNING. The valves are hitting each other or the piston. Back up the flywheel and reset the timing. Check the timing again. If you were to set the cam dots 1/2 tooth the other way, the valves will hit.

Answer 4

Between the middle cyl.You can hook'em together & turn'er over to feed the new chain threw the engine. A ' clymer ' manual will help you out & they're a deal at $35 ! Good Luck

Answer 5

Generally, timing chains are at one end of the crankshaft. Check if there's a cover you can remove there on one side. But it's a good idea to get yourself a manual if you're going to attempt these kinds of repairs. They include instructions and pictures of what it's supposed to look like.

Answer 6

its nowhere that you can really get to well without pulling the engine out from what i remember of that bike. its right in the center of the engine and a real pain. but take a look at getting this if u want to do it

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/kawkzzzx19.html

Answer 7

at the front of you cylinder, you will have to remove the tank etc. take the head of and you shoulf see the top part of the chain