how much is a 100 galon tank and how many clownfish can i put in it?

Question

i need your help plz thanx

Answer 1

The answer to your second question is two (as long as they're of the same species). Although 100 gallons may seem like a lot to you, clownfish are territorial and will likely be aggressive with any others you keep in the tank, unless they're a family group. If you buy two juveniles, there's a good possibility that they may become a mated pair. Since the largest and most dominant of any group will become a female, any two will do.

The price of the tank can vary a lot. It will be about $200 new (at least), but you might find one used for less. Besides cragslist, also check listings around you at Freecycle: http://www.freecycle.org/ You might also check aquarium clubs in your area. These often hold auctions (and some are open to the public) where members can sell equipment they no longer use: http://fins.actwin.com/dir/clubs.php?c=1 (They also have fish for sale that tops what you see in pet stores that members have bred, and the members are a great source for help and info!)

You'll also need other equipment to do saltwater correctly. Figure into the cost:

FILTER: You'll need to get one that's properly sized (filters 5x-10x the tank volume per hour). There are lots of choices, and what you'll need will really depend on budget, what you're trying to keep, and personal preference. I'd consider the best to be a refugium or wet/dry trickle filter. Next best would be a canister, followed by a biowheel, then a standard hang-on-tank. Unless you're using a fine sand or oolite substrate, you can also use an undergravel filter to supplement filtration, but I'd suggest powering it with a reversible powerhead to blow the water up through the substrate (prevents stuff from building up under the filter and clogging it).

POWERHEAD(S): To provide more water circulation in hard to get to places. This also helps circulate dissolved oxygen to the bottom of the tank.

HEATERS: For a saltwater tank, I'd suggest getting 2 and putting one on each end. This will provide more even heating, and your tank has a back-up if one gives out. Figure the correct size as 5 watts per gallon divided by 2 heaters. If you need to heat the water more than 10 degrees above the room temperature, go one size higher. Also plan on 1-2 thermometers to position in the tank to check the temperature.

LIGHTING: If you never want anything but fish, you can use the standard lighting and hood made for your tank. You might want to upgrade the lamps to a 10,000K tube or a 50/50 actinic. If you're going to try corals, anemones, etc., go with a compact fluorescent, metal halide, or combo system - these will provide more intense light that they'll need for photosynthesis.

SUBSTRATE - you want something made of aragonite to help keep the pH from changing, I like the smaller shell material that Carib-Sea puts out - it doesn't have to be live sand, either. Some folks like crushed coral, but the particle size is bigger than I like, and it tends to have a lot of dust that never rinses completely out. Another very fine grained material is oolitic aragonite (looks like small white balls) and aragonite sand. Here's an idea of the materials available: http://www.caribsea.com/pages/products/d... While it's possible to keep a marine tank with regular aquarium gravel or no substrate, the aragonite will keep the pH from falling below 7.8 (it should be 8.2-8.4).

SALT MIX: If you're only keeping fish, you can go with one of the less expensive brands of synthetic sea salt. If you get any invertebrates (shrimp, snails, crabs, corals, anemones, etc.), switch to a better quality mix before you add them. These cost a little more, but you won't need to be using additives for the trace elements they need either.

HYDROMETER: This measures the amount of salt that's dissolved inwater. There are two kinds you can get, one made of glass that floats on the surface (more accurate, but easy to break) and a plastic container that has a needle that rises and falls as the amount of salt changes (less accurate, bubbles attaching to the needle gives false readings). For fish only, you want the specific gravity to read 1.020 - 1.026. If you're keeping inverts, you want it to be 1.024 - 1.026.

WATER TESTING KIT: minimum of pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate.

CLEANING SUPPLIES: elbow length gloves, gravel vacuum, 5 gallon bucket, large plastic container and powerhead for mixing the salt (to be done well ahead of water changes), algae scraper, razor blades (for coraline algae and diatoms that like to attach to the glass).

WATER CONDITIONER: for removing chlorine or chloramine from your tap water (unless you plan to use a reverse osmosis filter or buy RO water).

The following are optional, but strongly suggested:

PROTEIN SKIMMER: This removes dissloved and small organic materials that would normally contribute to the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in your tank. Not 100% necessay for fish-only tanks, but will be handy if you have inverts to keep up good water quality by removing organic materials that become nutrients for algae.

GLASS COVER: This reduces evaporation and keeps the fish inside the tank, although with a metal halide lighting system, it can overheat your tank.

LIVE ROCK: This give the tank a more natural appearance, provides hiding places for the fish and inverts, and increases the biological filtration. Not to mention, you get all kinds of cool critters that hitchhike into your tank.

CHILLER: If you use metal halide lighting, or the water temperature regularly gets above 85o (for corals or anemones, fish can take a little more heat), you may need to invest in a chiller to keep the tank cool. The water temperature should run 76-80oF.

I'd also recommend a good reference book for saltwater tanks. Either of these would be a good one to start with: The New Marine Aquarium by Michael S. Paletta. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-52-1 or The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert M. Fenner. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-02-5

Some web sites you can check out for more info on keeping saltwater are the following:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupez.htm
http://www.peteducation.com/index.cfm?cls=16
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/

Answer 2

Bunbunner has the right idea. Keeping Marine fish requires a lot of knowledge, a lot of time and a lot of money. Don't go charging into it thinking you'll figure it out as you go.

Do yourself a big favor and research, research, research.
Don't just leap into this!

Keeping clownfish is fine, and fun and amazing, but it is not easy and it can go wrong very quickly if you don't know what you're doing.

Before you start, buy a book (or get one at the library) and read it cover to cover. I recommend The Complete Book of the Marine Aquarium by Vincent Hargreaves.

Then, go onto a forum where you can read advice given by experienced keepers and read for 30 or 40 hours. Any questions you have at this early stage have already been answered, I guarantee it, so just use the beginner's threads and the search feature and read, read, read.

After 30 hours or so, you may have gleened enough info to give you a good idea of what you will be in for and whether or not it will be worth the expense and the time it requires.

You only asked 2 questions, and even tho I could answer them ('a lot' and 'two'), that's not all you need to know. Keeping saltwater aquaria is completely different from freshwater. You need more than a tank and fish.

Herer are some links to forums.

http://www.nano-reef.com/
http://www.reefcentral.com/
http://www.petfish.net/forum/index.php/board,15.0.html
http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Group23.aspx


I personally do all my SW surfing at NanoReef, but that's because I have a Nano tank. A Nano tank is one that is 30 gallons or less.

PetFish is also a great site, and it's where I found out about NanoReef, but I haven't spent any time there since I started the Reef tank.

I haven't been to the other sites, but they have good reputations and I am sure you can learn stuff there.

If all you want is clownfish, I recommend you read up on Nano tanks. When it comes to aquarium stability, it IS true that bigger is better, but with Marine tanks, bigger multiplies your expenses a LOT.

PLEASE, put in hours and hours of research before you start!
You will be glad you did.

Answer 3

If you want to buy a 100 gal tank from a pet store you're looking probably at over 200 bucks. I highly suggest buying tanks used! As long as they serve their purpose, who cares if they've got a few little scratches? Just make sure to scrub it down when you first get it. I don't know where you're from, but sites like craigslist.com have people selling all sorts of things they don't want anymore. I got a 50-gal tank for 50 bucks! (that's a pretty good deal) and you can find even better deals if you're patient. I usually find them under "animals" and "general" in the classified section.

Good luck tank hunting!

Answer 4

100 gallon will cost about 200 bucks with out a stand.
If you are talking about saltwater clown fish, two.Clowns can be very aggressive and when buying a pair it is best to buy them at the same time and around the same size.Precula and false percula are the least aggressive and Maroon being the more aggressive..I have a pair of maroon babies and they hold there own with my tangs and trigger along with the other fish..BTW my tank is 135 gallon with stand, sump,hood,lights and the pump.I bought it used for 100 bucks.The guy really wonted to get rid of it.I paid well over 200 for my 55 with pump stand and all but I bought it new.

Answer 5

the tank itself is the cheapest thing about setting it up for salt water, it will cost a lot of money, i would recommend starting small.(29g-55g) Then once you can handle it go to a 100g, 100g with the stand and canopy cost around $600

Answer 6

http://www.kidzworld.com/article/3700-facts-about-the-clown-fish-pg-2