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I sent away for as product called Rust-Bullet, and it says it will stop rust for ten years! I used as directed, even had a friend who is a pro body man prep it, used as directed, three monthes later rust back. Anyone have another product they recommend. Also, I heard that if you spray 10W-40W oil aound and under, this will prevent rust, any truth to this?

Thanks

2007-07-30 23:06:58 · 14 answers · asked by ? 1 in Cars & Transportation Maintenance & Repairs

To the Rocket Scientist that suggested paint, the painting was finished by a pro body man and primed , OK! We are not stupid!!!

2007-07-30 23:21:49 · update #1

14 answers

if not sandblasted, your surface prep is really an important step for the coating adhering permanently to the metal...KBS Coatngs makes a great 3 step system with a cleaner, metal prep & protective coating called RustSeal. Good prep allows the sealer to seep into the clean open pores of the metal & interlock with it for a permanent non porous seal.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-3-Part-System.aspx

2007-07-31 01:58:02 · answer #1 · answered by motorcoater 3 · 3 0

This Site Might Help You.

RE:
best product to stop/eliminate rust on your car?
I sent away for as product called Rust-Bullet, and it says it will stop rust for ten years! I used as directed, even had a friend who is a pro body man prep it, used as directed, three monthes later rust back. Anyone have another product they recommend. Also, I heard that if you spray 10W-40W...

2015-08-06 05:16:12 · answer #2 · answered by ? 1 · 0 0

How To Stop Rust

2016-10-02 12:24:47 · answer #3 · answered by ? 4 · 0 0

POR-15 is the best stuff I've used---http://www.por15.com/
You just have to make sure that the whole rusted area is covered---any tiny area where oxygen/air can get at it will keep the rust process going. Only other way is to cut it out and weld in new metal. Spraying oil around the rust area might slow it down a bit but any oxygen molecules getting through the oil will just allow it to keep rusting....not worth the effort, in my opinion.

2007-07-31 02:47:53 · answer #4 · answered by paul h 7 · 0 0

i'm in canada. here we have 2 products that work well. Rust Check and Krown. both are applied at shops, but they also sell spray cans of it. check their websites and see if they ship to the us. it should be applied every year. a friend has had the Krown applied every year since new on a 98 sierra, and there is not any rust on it, that stuff is great.

2007-07-31 01:32:12 · answer #5 · answered by ifanorangeiscalledanorange? 3 · 1 0

Rust on a car is like cancer, you can hide it and slow it down but unless you replace the panel, there's not much else you can do. If it's surface rust, you can use pepsi or coke and it will dissolve it. CLR also works but be very careful where you apply, it will eat away the paint too.

2007-07-30 23:12:11 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 1 0

Rust is called the "cancer of the metal". It spreads like cancer. You would have to grind away ALL of the rust down to the bare metal to stop the spread.

Car restorers would often cut out a whole sections of sheet metal and repair them with a "patch panel." They know - there's no way to stop rust than to cut it all out.

====
As for 10w40 (not 10w40w) yes and no. I used to scuba dive. And my brand new diving knives would rust after the first dive (day) from salt water. I'm taking chrome knives. So I tried covering the NEW knives with my suntan /sunscreen lotion before the dive. AND YES it worked. My dive knives never rusted.

Also, I was working on my friend's clutch. And the top sides of the engine / bolts had a cake layer of grease. The top sides were clean from rust but the bottom sides (of the same bolts) had surface rust.

BUT there are 3 factors different from your case. (1) the metal was chrome, an inherently resistant to rusting (2) I re-applied oil EVERY time I went diving (3) the metal were new and NEVER had any rust.

The side mounted engine bolts had half free from rust (top side) and half surface rust (bottom side). So even with all that engine bay grease, the bottom sides still rusted.

So unless you are ready to apply 10w40 oil over and over again to brand new car, I would say this is not a practical answer.
====
As for recommendation: On sea bearing ships, they weld on blocks of Zinc. That makes the rest of the ship slightly different polarity than normal and causes the Zinc to corrode before the ship metal. I also heard about this device that "electrify" the body so it would resist rusting - I don't know if it works but you can so a google search.


Good Luck

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2007-07-30 23:17:16 · answer #7 · answered by Lover not a Fighter 7 · 4 1

oil and or grease will slow and or nearly stop rust yes but alls it does is keep the oxygen away from metal. oxygen is what causes it to rust. yes water is usually said to cause rust but its actually the oxygen in the water. also naval jelly and painting can help. the naval jelly helps remove the rust and readies your steel or iron to be painted and will help it keep for a long time. i have tried this but nothing can actually stop rust forever. whatever you have is going to keep rusting unless you keep treating it usually oil or grease will help if its not in the open or if its the motor. naval jelly and follow the directions then paint it if its on the body or whatever. i would recommend doing that it should help out alot.

2007-07-30 23:20:14 · answer #8 · answered by pan_clock 3 · 0 0

For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/aw9iw

You need to get all the old undercoating off and get down to the bare metal by Sandblasting. I recommend KBS Coatings which has the most superior technologically advanced 3-step-system on the market: Klean/Blast/Seal. However, on newly sandblasted surfaces, prep products are NOT needed so you just proceed with sealing with their rust preventive paint called kBS RustSeal. RustSeal is formulated with a unique viscosity that allows it to seep deep down into the open metal pores where it cures rock hard and permanently blocks off all access to moisture & oxygen. KBS Coatings Rust Seal is superior to POR in that it has deeper adhesion ability, richer pigment qualities & unbelievable finishes, cures rock hard & watertight yet remains flexible to expand & contract, sands w/o gumming and comes in a variety of new colors...gloss black, satin (OEM) black, silver, grey, clear, oxide red, guardian green & off white. Then I'd topcoat with Durabek or choose KBS BlackTop...their rock hard permanent automotive chassis topcoat for a final professional looking finish.

2016-04-08 10:20:37 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Eastwood is a very reputable company for quality auto restoration products and this rust converter:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C389%2C390&KickerID=347&KICKER

I've also found a product from JC Whitney that works well, but must be painted over to protect it from ultraviolet sunlight:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2000773/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2000773/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=paint+over+rust&reviewflag=1#review

2007-07-31 02:21:29 · answer #10 · answered by bobweb 7 · 0 0

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