Stripping Varnish, Paint stripper isnt working HELP?

Question

I am trying to restore an old gun stock made out of oak. I need to completely remove the varnish and re-stain the wood. I have tried several times to remove the thick coating of varnish with paint stripper but it wont take off the varnish, it just makes it tacky.

Any one have suggestions for stripping thick coatings of varnish other than the run of the mill paint strippers. The stuff I got says its for varnish.

I have a feeling that its going to be elbow grease and sand paper uhhhh.

Answer 1

The best stripper I have run accross is called "Circa" paint stripper. Brush it on liberally and then leave it in the shade and wait (go have a coffee) The varnish will shrivel up and you can scrape it off with a putty knife type of tool. You may get down to a layer of laquer- I can't say that the stripper works on that - never had to try.
But, it also does not work on waterbased clearcoats.

Answer 2

First off, if your stripper isn't getting the varnish really gummy, then it's probably not very good stripper. Maybe try a different brand. I have some good stuff in my garage, but I can't remember what brand it was...I'm currently deployed in Iraq or I would check for you.

I've stripped a lot of similar things and found that once you get it all gummy like that, if you use a fairly sharp PLASTIC scraper, it generally takes most of the varnish off. You'll go through a lot of paper towels, because you'll want to make one scrape with the plastic scraper, just like you were shaving, then wipe all the **** off with a paper towel. You might have to do a few coats of the stripper and repeat with the scraper, but I almost guarantee this would be your easiest way. Also, around the curves in the wood, you can use a sharpened piece of flexible teflon. The plastic and teflon won't generally damage the wood, especially if it's a hard wood. Once you get almost all the stripper off, then you can finish it off by sanding it. Your stock should look like new after that and be ready for whatever stain/varnish you want to put on it.

Answer 3

first of all get a stripper for paint make sure it is a paste not a liquid do one side at a time lay it down flat brush it on let the stripper do its work let it stay on till you can take a putty knife and raise off a little section of the old varnish them take some #3 steel wool and take off the old varnish then do the same thing on the other side then you could wipe both sides down with paint thinner or use water which will raise the wood grain and require more sanding

Answer 4

Hello, I am a furniture refinisher. And have come across my fair share of stubborn varnishes and shellacs, over the years. I haven't 'met' one yet, to 'finish' me! Here's my advice, use a product made by Formby's. It's a furniture refinisher stripping agent. Golves are recommended, however it won't 'burn your hands, its kind of like a heavy-duty nail polish remover. I'd get the smallest can unless you think you'll use it for something else. Anyway, it is thin, so you'll need to apply it with a little extra care for the surface you'll be workin' on. I use grade '0' steel wool for applying the stuff, lighty scrubbing in a circular motion. this product will remove the varnish, while it protects the patina of the wood. If for some 'fluke' reason it does'nt, then git' one of yer' friends ta' hold that 'varmint' down and shoot it! Put yourself out of misery!! (jest kiddin')

Answer 5

Gotta go w/ folks warning about fumes & possibility of toxic paint. Not a big fan of heat gun paint removal for surfaces.that are going to be get new paint or natural finish. The residue left behind gets hard & is messy to remove. Since you will need to do a cleanup , chemical or otherwise, might consider one of the newer heavy paste strippers. Less work & possibly cheaper in the long run. Also,much less toxic & less chance of damaging the wood. Good luck w/ project

Answer 6

If you are planning to start on your woodworking project, this isn't something you should use, it's something that you would be insane not to. Go here https://tr.im/tPjir
Truth is, I've been a carpenter for almost 36 years, and I haven't found anything like this for less than 10's of thousands of dollars.

Answer 7

I've always used "Zip" strip in the twenty years I was on the job. It works well with anything but, wear rubber gloves and don't get it on the hands or skin, it will burn.
You can wipe it off after the waiting time and then sand or use steel wool. I used steel wool to get it all off.

Answer 8

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