Want to polish HARDWOOD FLOOR by myself. I think that I can do it, but HOW?

Question

Just bought a house. Made awesome deal. But there is only one problem that hardwood floors are in very bad condition; I mean it needs polish very badly. I don’t know how many years ago they polished it last time. After paying for 20% down for the house and appliances the budget is very tight, so I thought that my husband and me should do it by our self. I know we can do it. So guys please help. Give me some links to get info how to do it? And need tips from your experience too. And for supplies, HOME DEPOT or WHAT? What is the best store for supplies? Thanks a lotttttttt in advance. 5 star promise for help. But more then that, my blessings for you all.

i watch Home & Garden TV and diy channel a lot, but its my bad luck that dont remember any program about it.checked, there isnt any program schedule in this month about it on these channels. one of my friend (she doesnt know how to do but she told me to rent a machine ,sand and buff, then paint.so wanted to know in details, and what kind a paint any name?any brand?please help

Answer 1

Hello, I personally refinished all the floors in our older home as well. When you say polish, are you lookin' for just a protective finish? or do they need to be 'resurfaced? If just a finish is all you need, then I recommend a trip to lowes paint dept. Ask for the mgr. they will have the most training in this area. They should be able to direct you to the best paste wax product for you needs. However if they are needing to be resurfaced, and they don't have stain damage, the easiest way is to use a 'stripping agent' (It's like a glorified nail polish remover) My preference is one made by JASCO. It's called FURNITURE REFINISHER. Comes in a wood grain gallon sized can. Used to be able to get it at Orchard Supply Hardware. If you can't find it at the store or online, my second recommendation is a similar product made by FORMBY"S that is also a furniture refinisher. You'll also need a few pkgs. of steel wool. comes in varying degrees of coarseness. I recommend # 3- to OO. #3 for the stubborn areas. You'll need at least 1 to 2 pkgs. of each grade of steel wool. whatever you don't use, you can return. I find it to be easier to return 'after' the project is done, not somewhere in the middle of it . (I hate interruptions) Anyway, your steps will be...#1 dip steel wool in old bowl of F.R. solution. (just like you would a scrub brush, if you were cleanin' the floor.) spread ot the solution in a circular motion, let it sit and soak for a minute or two. This will loosen any old varnish from the floor. As you begin to 'scour' , the gunk will start to get trapped in your 'pad. #2 go over the same are with the next grade of steel wool , following the same procedure. then wipe with rags or paper towels. I use the VIVA ones, because they are the most absorbant. When you have done these steps for the whole floor, then you need to take a clean rag and using the solution, pouring a little on the areas of the floor at a time then wiping with the clean rags . You may have to change rags often. to getoff any leftover residue. It's like a rinse cycle. Let that dry for I'd say at least six hrs., depending on your humidity. Once it is somewhat fume free you can apply a MINWAX stain if you want to alter the shade. If not then I recommend either a wax polish or a sealing polyurythane finish. It comes in a variety of sheens from matte to high gloss. You just brush it on with a clean, quality,fair sized brush. This product comes in gallon cans just like paint. You can find it at Either Lowes or Home depot. I think it's made by,MINWAX or FLECTO. Either one will do Just be sure to look for the one that's made for floors. It's a POLYURYTHANE. Follow the directions on the can. You can also get backup info at LOWES. Wish I were there to help get ya' started! It is alot easier than most people think. Oh yeah, make sure to pick up a couple of those disposable white respirator masks. and be sure to open the windows for ventilation an to speed up the drying time. Hope this helps! {:-) Sincerely, Rose P.S. If you have any further questions, you can email me.

Answer 2

If it is a solid hardwood floor, you might be able to sand back the top layer and seal it with polyurethane or acrylic lacquer. If it has been done more than once before, this tends to get a little risky because the tongue and groove could finish too close to the surface. Any floor nails certainly will need re-punching before you begin. Chances are that it might just need a good clean and some tung oil. Here is what I would do... get some "napisan" or something similar (that's right.. its the stuff your mum used to use to wash nappies with) and scrub the floor with warm water and diluted napisan. This will open up the pores of the wood and remove much of the built up grunge. Then apply with a new mop .. tung oil.. two or three coats. It wont make the floor new.. but man it will look a million bucks compared to what it is.. and it will have that aged patina about it. Now finally... bakes some BRAN MUFFINS so that you have something to eat during the break.

Answer 3

Normally, when someone says that they are polishing the floor, it means that are waxing the floor.

From the question, I think that you are talking about stripping and revarnishing it.

Rent a power sander from a rental company and strip the floor. Clean all the dust up and use a tack rag to get up the rest. Now you will want to stain the wood or you can use a stain mixed with varnish. I used a polyurethane varnish for longer wear and a shiny finish. It is not that hard but it is some work, so be prepared. good luck.

Answer 4

Are you talking about sanding and refinishing?