With all due respect I'm thinking you mean SCRAP with a mortise/tendon joint, creating long enough pieces to be viable for door/window framing applications, etc.
Most often offered by legitimate lumber yards as opposed to an HD or Lowes.
The issue you suggest is no more or less than a solid piece, most especially since most are NON treated and you'll only accomplish finish/paint on the surface that is attacked by the environment,,,most visible.
The cost difference is so often in pennies, why would anyone consider SAVING, most especially for an exterior application?
Indoors one will never know, if finished poroperly, or will there ever be an issue of degradation as you suggest.
I do agree with you,,,strongly on one point,,,COMPSITE CRA*. I like to call it "GLIT" A combination of Glue and S***.
Certainly our greatest freedom as a species is "CHOICE"...Mine happens to be pretty well defined. GOOD Q BTW.
Steven Wolf
2007-07-26 05:04:38
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answer #1
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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Today, there are essentially three types of molding sold in most lumber outlets. Finger jointed paint grade wood, stain grade solid wood and paint grade composite (which is usually MDF medium density fiberboard).
All are normally sold by the foot. That way you only buy as much as you need. Stain grade molding is the most expensive, usually clear and often available in oak as well as white wood, usually pine. Paint grade molding should be less expensive than stain grade, if not take your business elsewhere.
Building materials are designed to do a specific job. Chip board, either OSB or particleboard are not designed for direct exposure to the elements. Plywood unless specifically designed for marine use also fairs badly under direct exposure to weather. A few solid woods, cedar and redwood for example can stand direct exposure, and weather to a shade of gray many find pleasing. Even cedar and redwood benefit from treatment with paints, stains and sealers when exposed directly to the weather.
2007-07-31 04:12:20
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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I too am irritated by the cost of trim. Your question is a little vague, not sure if you're talking about paint grade trim that are pieces finger-jointed together and designed to painted, or, short stock being sold at full length prices. Being a frugal soul, I purchased new Andersen windows at auction for a family room. Windows on 3 sides about 25' of windows. Cost.....under $500. Still have not trimmed them out on the inside because of my stubborn nature and the cost of trim. I hate paying retail for the trim when I know it can be had for a better price. Look for smaller specialty trim suppliers. If you have sawmills in your area, may have moulding machines an make trim. The big box stores are taking advantage of us in this area. Shop it out, or at least spend the same money to get better quality. Good Luck.
2007-07-26 06:43:14
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answer #3
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answered by Jim N 4
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You have to be more specific what type of foundation and floors will you have? Anything that touches dirt should be pressure treated. Anything that will be exposed to the elemends will need to be sealed. What do you mean by rough cut lumber? that term is normally used by when using lumber from a home made lumber mill. What type of siding are you using? update: I dont know much about the rough cut part other than you have to be careful how you lay it so it doest warp. as fare as the tongue and groove i would suggest. t1-11 it is an exterior plywood make to look like tongue and groove( does have tongue and goove on the ends. it is about 1/2 the cost. alot less work and stronger.
2016-05-19 00:41:32
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answer #4
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answered by ? 3
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Less waste, more money. Actually, the joints are stronger than the rest of the wood used. Georgia Pacific (and I am sure others) use this process for their lam beams. If you can see the joints, they are most likely going to be painted and never seen. If I am using the wood for a natural finish with clearcoat, I pick through the stock on hand.
2007-07-26 06:49:46
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answer #5
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answered by sensible_man 7
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