Bala shark with red dorsal fin?

Question

I realize there are the exact same questions on here, but none of them helped me. I have 3 Bala sharks with a mixed community of Gouramis, Danios, 1 male betta(who is getting along fine with the community) and some placostomus all in a 50 gallon tank. 2 of the bala sharks, which are younger and smaller than the older, larger bala, are getting blood red streaks on their dorsal fin. I am positive they are bala sharks and not the other breed. The filters were dirty the other day, but I have cleaned and replaced the filters and the water is clearing up now, but the red isnt going away. I know this could be Hemorragic septisemia or something, but I have no idea how to treat it. And I can't go to the vet for a subscription medicine. Could anyone suggest something? Are the bala's going to be ok? They are acting just fine, and eating right. The danios are also getting a slight red tint on their bottom fins as well (They are Giant danios if that helps) Please, help me

I have had this tank running for a few months now. And I do realize they will need more space, I have worked that out with my dad, and he wants to get either a 100 or 200 gallon tank in a few monthes -.-'' dads.... making me get a tank that big >.< I do want one though =P

Answer 1

Red streaks in the fins are a symptom of septicemia, but it's also a symptom of ammonia poisoning.

Do you have a water test kit to know what the ammonia was like in your tank? You don't mention how long this tank has been running, but if it's relatively new (less than a month old) or if you've used an antibiotic in your tank recently, this may have been the problem. If you take a sample of your tank water to the pet store in a clean container, they may be able to test it for you (some stores will do this for free, some change a small fee). I think this might be the cause, since you mention the filter was dirty (you may be overfeeding possibly, which can add ammonia), and balas will eventually need a larger tank than a 50, since they will get 12-14" long. It can be that the bacteria in the tank can no longer keep up with the amount of waste the fish are producing as they're growing if you've had this tank longer than a month.

If this is septicemia, you should be able to treat this with tetracycline, which you can find in the medications at your pet store - no need for a prescription from a vet.

Answer 2

How long have you had these 2 sharks? Have you added any other fish or plants to the tank? When was the last time you did a partial water change (from the bottom)? I know these are a lot of questions for you.. Without knowing any of the answers I would l suggest a 25% water change using a syphon from the bottom corners and outer edges of the tank and scattered through the middle. Then add fresh water salt from the pet store, to the tank when you replace the water. This is a great overall tonic for several things, but it is important to never just add the salt, salt will not evaporate, so you only add the salt when you physically remove water then only add enough to replenish the water you remove. You may have a high nitrate content in your tank. If you have a test kit, test it, if you don't, take a sample to the pet store and ask them to test it for you, they should do it either for free or only a $1 or so.. Either way, a partial change will help matters, but it is important to do it from the bottom, don't dip from the top.. all the junk that causes the nitrates to increase is lying on the bottom in the rocks. It could be something else, but this is where I would start. It is good for your tank either way. Good Luck.

Answer 3

It it's septicemia, treat as the other guys said. If it's ammonia or nitrite poisoning, you need to do frequent water changes to try to get your ammonia levels down until your tank can cycle. With that many fish crowded into that little space and no bigger tank coming for over a month, you are going to have to work hard to keep these fish alive.

To tell which it is, test your water for ammonia and nitrite and nitrate. If you have a test kit, great, do it now. If you don't have a test kit, take some water to a fish store and ask if they can test it for you. Your ammonia and nitrite levels should be 0. Your nitrate levels should be around 5-10 parts per million. If your ammonia or nitrite is over 1 part per million your fish are probably being poisoned. If your nitrates are too high, you still need to do water changes, but probably only weekly and not daily. Get yourself a test kit so you can monitor the levels yourself at home if you don't have one already. If your levels are 0, get the stuff to treat for septicemia.

In either case, until you can get to a fish store, do daily 10-20% water changes and vacuum the gravel lightly every day. If it's septicemia, this won't hurt, and if it's the ammonia, it'll help. Nothing helps a sick fish as much as keeping your water clean, clean, clean! And that doesn't mean just clear so you can't see any dirt, that means free of ammonia, nitrite and low in nitrates. If it turns out your fish are suffering from either ammonia or nitrite poisoning, keep up the 10-20% water changes every day until the levels are down to 0.

Answer 4

Treat Hemorrhagic Septicemia (blood spots or streaks without any sign of skin damage) using E.M. Tablets from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. Takes 4 days to do a complete treatment and works like a charm.