how to treat velvet disease?

Question

how do you treat velvet disease? my swordtail is still eating, but has been inactive and stays on the bottom of the tank mostly... is it too late? what products do i use? also, can it get on human skin?? how long does velvet usually last until it becomes fatal or kills it?

also, how do i clean the tank?

Answer 1

First, you want to be absolutely certain that this is what your fish has before you begin treating - velvet will look like tiny white spots, especially on the fins, that will have a gold-rust color when you shine a bright light on them. Don't medicate your fish unless you can positively identify what it's got, using the wrong medication may only make things worse for your fish.

I would clean the tank before using treatment. Use a gravel vacuum to siphon any of the gunk out of the gravel and replace the water removed with fresh (using your product to treat tapwater). You'll also need to remove any carbon from your filter, or it will absorb the medication.

You can treat velvet with the same medications that you would use for ich. Quick Cure or Rid Ich (available at WalMart), or any product you can find that contains both malachite green and formalin is the best. Velvet can spread fairly quickly, so you should try to get the medication sometime tomorrow, if possible.

The parasite that causes velvet has a photosynthetic pigment, so it's important that you turn off the lights over the tank while you're treating this. Expect the treatment to take at least two weeks, and I recently had a case with a betta that took three. Continue to treat at least 3-5 days after you no longer see the spots on your fish, because if you stop too early, the fish might get reinfected.

If you need to do a water change during the treatment, that's okay. Products like Quick Cure have a dosage of one drop per gallon, so just keep track of how many gallons you remove from the water (put the water you take out into an old gallon jug or a measured bucket) then refill the tank and add back the medication for the number of gallons of water you removed. If your fish is a betta or something in a 1 gallon tank, use a gallon jug to mix 1 drop with a jug full of water (again treat with something to remove the chlorine), then just add the amount needed.

Answer 2

Velvet Fish Disease

Answer 3

Copper-based medications are still the best choice, and while catfish are sensitive, they can still tolerate it (it's usually best to use half-doses in tanks with catfish, characins, loaches, etc.). Catfish (and the others I mentioned) are also sensitive to the best alternatives, like malachite green and formalin, so it really just comes down to what you can get. Treating a tank unnecessarily is always a bad idea--you'll kill the nitrifying bacteria in your filter and substrate, likely do serious damage to (if not kill) any plants or invertebrates in the tank, and it'll cause the fish a great deal of stress. However, letting a velvet infection just run its course is almost a sure way to kill the fish. If you're reasonably confident that it's velvet, start treatment. Also, be aware that in addition to removing activated carbon from your filter, you'll want to turn off the light for the duration of the treatment, and black out the tank (with newspaper); Oodinium (the parasite responsible for velvet) is partially photosynthetic, and not allowing it any light considerably weakens it.

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