saltwater aquariums?

Question

exactly what tools and pumps do i need to start up a 55 gallon saltwater aquarium. and how much would would it cost ? im experienced with freshwater and am looking to change to saltwater..all help is appreciated

Answer 1

If you already have a tank you're looking to convert, you probably have most of the equipment already. Beyond the tank itself, you'll also need a heater (5 watts per gallon, you may want two of the same wattage for more even heating and to have the second as a backup if something should happen to one) and filter (turnover at least 5-10 times your tank volume per hour). Since saltwater organisms live in more turbulent flow, and have a change in direction with the tides, some will use one or more powerheads to create flow from more than one direction, and to keep dead areas from forming which could accumulate wastes. If you're only planning to keep fish, a standard hood will be enough.

If you don't have any of these items, or want to buy new, here's an approximate breakdown of costs:

a heater - ($25-$35 each, depending on type and brand) - I would suggest one that is fully submersible and has an adjustable temperature. I would suggest getting two 150 W heaters for a 55.

a filter - ($30+ depending on type and brand) - you want one that will turn over at least 10 times the volume of water in the tank per hour, so check the GPH rating. There are a number of types you can buy, from a regular hang-on-tank like an Aquaclear (cheapest) to a biowheel (more expensive), or canister filters (most expensive) to a wet/dry trickle filter or refugium. Obviously, the more efficient the filter, the more expensive it will be, and you can easily spend over $100 for a good canister or trickle filter, but if you're handy, there are DIY trickle filters you can make for a lot less, and instructions for various types are on the web.

protein skimmer (~$100+) - this isn't 100% required, but is strongly recommended if you're keeping anything other than fish. These use a stream of small bubbles to remove dissoved organics from the water and deposit them into a collection cup. The organics would otherwise contribute to your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

salt mix - ($15-25 per 20lb bag depending on brand) If you only plant to keep fish, Instant Ocean is economical and good. If you plan to keep invertebrates, you may need to use supplements, or go with a higher-end brand. Since you have a larger tank, you will get more fore the money if you buy salt mix by the bucket (enough for 150 gallons in most brands).

hydrometer - ($8-10) This is used for mixing salt to the proper concentration. There are no easy # cups per # gallons because the salt will compact as it absorbs moisture from the air. You'll need a specific gravity of 1.020-1.026 for fish, 1.024-1.026 if you keep inverts.

substrate - (~$25 per bag, you'll need two for a 55) This should be aragonite or crushed coral to help raise the tank's pH. Saltwater should be maintained at 8.2-8.4.

live rock - (~$8 per pound) While not strictly required, it's strongly recommended to use. The live rock has bacteria to help break down the wastes from your fish, some of which are toxic to them. You can make "caves" for them to swim in and out of, and these give the tank a more natural appearance. The recommended amount is 1 lb per gallon of Pacific origin rock to 1 1/2 to 2 lb per gallon for Atlantic/Carribean origin. The difference here is that Pacific rock is more porous, so there's more surface area for bacteria to colonize and less is needed for the same effect.

glass cover - ($12 for a 24 inch, you'll need two) This keeps the water from evaporating too quickly or from splashing the lights, and keeps fish from jumping out of the tank.

lighting - ($25+) depending on what you intend to keep. For $25, you can get a basic lighting set-up that can be used if you only keep fish and non-photosynthetic inverts. If you want to keep corals or anemones, you'd need a minimum of a compact fluorescent system and these will run about $150.


fish - (~$5+ per fish depending on the species)

food - You can use marine pellets or flakes as a staple, but you should supplement this with frozen plankton, enriched brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, squid, clams, krill, Marine Cuisine, Emerald Entree, silversides, or dried seaweed depending on the dietary needs of the fish you decide to keep.

Cleaning supplies - 5 gallon bucket (for dirty water), large plastic container with lid for mixing saltwater (a plastic garbage can is great for this), optional powerhead to mix saltwater, siphon, long-sleeved gloves (you shouldn't put your hands in the tank), algae scraper.

Saltwater test kit - for testing your water quality - API Saltwater Master kit is a good one.

A reference book - I highly recommend The New Marine Aquarium by Michael S. Paletta. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-52-1 or The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert M. Fenner. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-02-5

There are lots of other things you could get or may need, but the list above will give you a good idea of what you should have on hand to start.

For maintenance, you should first set up the tank with freshwater and make sure everything is operational, then add the salt to the proper concentration. I would recommend that you do a fishless cycle (explained in a link I'll add at the end) to prepare the tank before you add any fish. Take time to acclimate the fish to the tank correctly (also explained in the Fishlore link). Once you add fish, do 25% water changes once a week. Tubes for the lighting should be replaced every year, especially if you're keeping invertebrates or using a compact fluorescent. Even though the light will still work, it loses the intensity at the wavelengths needed for photosynthesis in 10-12 months.

Fish in saltwater tend to be more aggressive (territorial) than freshwater fish, so do some research on the size, activity level, and compatibility of any species in which you're interested. Some general rules are not to mix fish from the same family, coloration, or body shape. This means that most species will be one to a tank, with the exceptions of the few that can be kept as pairs or in schools.

I can't emphasize enough the research that should be put into a marine tank before going and and buying the equipment. There's a lot that's involved, and the fish are rather expensive compared to a freshwater tank. But once you get past the intial set-up, the work involved isn't that much more than freshwater if you've planned the tank well.

Some additional reading on keeping saltwater:
http://www.fishlore.com/SaltwaterBeginners.htm
http://www.peteducation.com/index.cfm?cls=16
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/

Answer 2

I agree with copperheads answer, but I would pass on any of those filters. The only filter you should use on a saltwater aquarium is a HOB filter and purely for extra surface agitation and circulation - no filter media in it. Live rock is the only filtration you need, other than (maybe) a protein skimmer but even those have their pros and cons. A pound of live rock per gallon and you should be ready to go!

Answer 3

i agree with copper, but theyre are no drawbacks to a skimmer, maybe iodine concentration , but change your water and you'll be fine, look into wetwebmedia.com and some mesage boards or yahoo groups for more one on one advice, or email on of us