Fish? Eggs? Siameese fighting fish?!?

Question

How do fish have eggs? And also, Siameese Fighting Fish? Won't they like kill eachother? If you know what i mean :[.

Answer 1

Here is everything you need to know about breeding bettas, step by step
http://mermaiden.net/Betta/breeding_tips.php
http://www.bettysplendens.com/articles/catview.imp?catid=856


Hope that helps
Good luck



EB

Answer 2

The female fish drops the eggs, the male fish fertilizes the eggs, the eggs hatch. If given enough space at the right temperature with the right diet, Bettas can be bred in the aquarium. In the wild, they are found in large rice paddies where there is plenty of room to swim around. This way, the less dominant male can escape from the dominant male.

Nosoop4u

Answer 3

I know it can look cool, but no, it's not a good idea. A betta fish could definitely live in the bottle (albeit for a short period of time), but it won't be happy in it. Bettas need a minimum of 5 gallons, heated and filtered. Less than 5 gallons is difficult to heat evenly. Also, since they breathe air from the surface as well as the water, they need a lot of space to swim up to get air from (for example, the opening on your bottle could be around an inch wide; they need a larger space than a one inch opening from which to get the air). If you want a betta, there are cheap tank kits at walmart that come with a tank, filter, and light/cover (called a hood). The only thing you would have to buy separately is the food, gravel, and any plants/decorations.

Answer 4

Most of the time the female lays the eggs and then the male fertilizes them. The Siamese fighting fish or bettas are very aggressive, if they are kept in the same tank with another male betta or with fishes with long fins, they will attack and probably kill these fishes.

Male bettas are best kept alone or with fast-moving, short-finned fish.

Answer 5

no, the truth is bettas dont fight to the death. Some may die after the fights and the lack of care that the owner gives. ok so thats ut of the way.

Females bettas will grow the eggs :) If you condition them for 2 weeks with high fatty foods, the female will be full of eggs. But do more research before you breed bettas.

If you are planning on breeding them then do research, as you can get the female killed if you dont do it right. Also some females will also kills males. So you have to expect that.

The problem is, most newbi breeders just simply place a male and female to gether and hope they breed, and then they cry to me when one of the partners is dead. You can't simply add two bettas and expect them to breed.

You must conditon them and have the breeding tank set-up right and then they will breed, but you must do it correctly.

If you have any questions about breeding please see my betta site, where i show you how to breed bettas correctly.

Answer 6

they do NOT ATTACK TILL THE DEATH, they only attack then yes, can later die if not properly cared for. and for the eggs, each fish has a (tube) which extends when they are ready to breed or "lay eggs". first the female finds a safe place to lay the eggs, then she cleans that area, then she la the eggs, following her is the male fertilizing the eggs. and they do this time after time till the female is empty.

Answer 7

Yes Siamese fighting fish (AKA Betta Fish), will attack eachother to the death. I'm not exactly sure about the eggs. Sorry hope I helped.

Answer 8

use a 10 gallon aquarium, full hood with lights, submersible heater, plants (fake or real, although real is better), salt, Aquari-Sol, Stress Zyme (to help ease the cycling process), dechlorinator, sponge/corner filter, thermometer, Styrofoam cup cut in half lengthwise, and glass chimney. Required fry foods: microworms/vinegar eels and live baby brine shrimp eggs (you must create a hatchery and hatch them out)

Fill the tank with about 5 inches of water (treated with the correct amount of salt, dechlorinator, Stress Zyme, and Aquari-Sol). Place the filter in the back left corner and turn it off. It will be used to slowly circulate the water and keep fry off the bottom of the tank when they become free swimming. Place the plants on the left side of the aquarium, and the chimney marking the halfway point. Tape the Styrofoam cup to the right front corner. This will be used to protect the male’s bubble nest. Place the heater in the middle of the back of the aquarium, and set to 80*F. Place the thermometer in the left front corner. Put the hood on, turn on the lights (they will be left on until the fry are 2 weeks old), and plug in the heater when finished.
After the temperature is stable (if you did not use dechlorinator, wait about 24 hours for chlorine/chloramines to evaporate from the water), add the male to the tank. Let him get used to the tank for several hours, if not a day. Then place the female in a glass chimney from a lamp. This will allow the pair to see each other, but to be separated. This gives the male time to build a bubble nest (which houses the fry until they are free swimming) under the Styrofoam cup (you can also use bubble wrap to shelter the nest). When the male completes the nest, and the female shows signs of readiness (swims head down, vertical stripes appear, belly is round with eggs), lift the chimney so she can be with the male.
The male and female nip and flare at each other (if either severely wounds the other, remove and do not continue with the spawn). He’ll continue to build and chase her away from the nest, until they finally spawn. At this time he embraces – squeezes – the eggs out of her. The fallen eggs are then picked up by the male (and also female sometimes) and placed in the nest. Let them continue until no more eggs are released and he chases her away from the nest and won’t let her return.
Remove the female gently, so the eggs are not knocked out of the nest. Even if they fall, the male will continue to put them back and will often move them around to prevent them from getting fungus. Take good care of the female for a week, like you would be conditioning her. The male will take care of the fry until they hatch (after 24-36 hours) and become free swimming (after 48-72 hours). When they are all swimming, remove the male and treat him well like the female. Do not attempt to spawn them for a few weeks, and then begin the conditioning process if you want to spawn them again.

bringing up the Fry

On day 2, the fry have eaten up all of their food from their eggs, and you must feed them their first meal. You only need either microworms of vinegar eels, but can feed both. Microworms are by far the easiest to culture, harvest, and feed. You only scrape up enough to fit on the tip of a toothpick and swish it in the water. For vinegar eels, suction up a small amount of rinsed vinegar eels in a eye dropper and swish them around the tank. Feed this for about a week, and then introduce BBS. Rinse the BBS well also and feed as much as the microworms and vinegar eels. Over feeding will foul the water, so it is best to start off with small amounts, and add more than to add too much. Alternate the foods at each feeding (feed 2-3 times a day). Turn the corner filter on very slow (only a couple bubbles per minute), you may need to purchase a gang valve in order to control the flow.
After two weeks, increase the flow of the filter. You should know how strong the fry are at swimming, and what they can handle. At this time you can also perform the first cleaning. Put nylon over a siphon to prevent fry from being sucked up. Vacuum the bottom gently, and make sure the replacement water is the exact same temperature (80*F). Allow the clean water to trickle into the tank gently. Check the dirty water for fry, and return them. I use a turkey baster to suck them up and return them. You can now turn the lights off the lights at night, but leave on during feedings. Clean the tank as necessary, preferably once every day or two.
As the fry gain color and mature, watch out for aggressive behavior. Jar those that are aggressive, keeping the temperature at least at 70*F (try to keep it as close to 80 as possible, as they will grow better/faster) and the water clean. Quart jars should be cleaned every 2-3 days. After about a month, you can stop with microworms and introduce finely crushed dry foods. Make sure they are eating dry foods before removing all sources of live foods later on. You should be able to tell which foods are small enough for them to eat.
At 1.5- 2 months, continue to jar all noticeable males and aggressive fish. To sex them, males have longer fins and more pointed anal fins. Females have shorter bodies/fins, ovipositors, and often, round bellies (be sure they aren’t just well-fed males!). They also have more square anal fins. The temperature can now be lowered to 75*F gradually, and dry foods should be a main source of diet. Prepare the fish to be sold, as they are reaching prime breeding age, which will allow them to be easily sold.

hope this answers your questions

ps. normaly females are fine with eachother and a male should do fine with 3 or more females

Answer 9

the female fish lays the eggs and then the male comes and "fertalizes" them and if you are planning to breed 2 siamese fighting fish together separate the male immediately after he fertalizes or he will kill the female and eat the eggs

Answer 10

for good info in general and breeding check out these sites