I want to kill all of the grass in my yard? What chemical do I use for that? I have stickers really bad too..

Answer 1

CONCENTRATED ROUND UP

Answer 2

Let's take some of each person's answers: Glyphosate (Roundup) and a similar product Kleenup will work fine for killing the whole plant, roots and all. (I prefer Roundup concentrate so I can my own water, thank you) The trick to getting a good kill is to have the grass and weeds growing well so they take in the chemical. Stressed plants won't take in the killing agent. The nice thing about Glyphosate products is it is deactivated when it hits the soil......that is it binds to the soil and won't move through the soil to neighboring plants or any plants that may follow.

This translocation is a problem with the heavier duty weed and brush killers. They can move around......oh, the horror stories I could tell. Let's say you have a tree within this area, or your neighbor has tree roots in your lawn. Don't think so? Tree roots extend far, far, far beyond the outer branches of the tree. Put down one of these heavier duty herbicides and you could kill your neighbors tree.

Why not just rototill? Well, if the weeds in your lawn are perennial, you are just chopping them into smaller pieces and they will return, multiplied many times over. This is also true with creeping grasses such as bermudagrass. My neighbor rototilled his weed patch knowing the weeds were annuals but the grass struggling within is bermuda. The area now looks like a lawn because the bermuda is coming back much denser. This is why we need to kill the weeds and grass first, so you don't accidently propagate more.

As for the plastic, it actually works. You end up pasturizing the soil with the extreme heat that builds up after a few weeks. The upper layer of soil will have nothing living in it, including beneficial soil microorganisms, but you can bring those back with compost. Remember though, once you rototill, you will bring up soil from underneath and it will have still living weed seed.....seeds can live 20 years.....DRAT! Still the density will be less than before the soil was "cooked."

Answer 3

If your yard isn't really big, you can kill the grass and any other weeds in the lawn without chemicals. Get black plastic mulch at Home Depot (or wherever) in the biggest sizes they have. Pick the sunniest, hottest weather; summer's usually good for this. Water the spot you're going to cover well and then lay out the plastic and seal all the edges with dirt (you can always cut the plastic to fit the curves in the lawn). The unwanted vegetation under the plastic will bake, and the longer you can leave it, the more thorough a job it will do. A week could do it for lawn grass, but if you have obnoxious weeds (Bindweed, say), a couple of weeks should be sufficient. You might have to add some time for cloudy days, though. When you're done, you'll have a blank slate for new plants without having to worry about pesticide residue.

Answer 4

Round-Up or a much cheeper version called Gly-star plus it is about half the price of round up. You can buy it before it is deluted down. You mix around 4-5 oz per gallon an a gallon cost appx $50 (last year) Just make sure the wind isn't blowing toward your shrubs. If it is dry it wont kill it as good, wait an spray about 2 days after a rain while the grass is growing so it will spread it thrughout the plant to the roots

Answer 5

First off dont just spray chemicals you will never grow grass again without doing this properly. Your best bet is to till the yard then lay fresh soil then seed and fertilize with a weed killer FERTILIZER, NOT chemical. It will be a little more expensive - in the beginning - but in the end you you will save money. My lawn when i bought my house someonehad put roundup all over the yard.I though roundup went away after awhile. But it took 4 yrs of regrowing and working the soil and was very expensive. Also the mud was unbearable. Go to a lawn expert.

Answer 6

uncertain which form of burrs you're speaking approximately. while you're speaking approximately sand burrs then your favourite weed killer won't artwork. I in simple terms offered some weed killer at Walmart rather made for sand burs and different annoying to kill grass weeds. consequently you may ought to accomplish slightly learn and get the weed killer that works. no rely if that's black berry then I rather have stumbled on that a persistant use of brush killer works. no rely if that's different burrs then discover out what they are and that i'm optimistic there is the thank you to do away with it. The burrs are seeds so which you're killing the parent however the seeds are nonetheless on the floor. you ought to kill the plant each and every 3 hundred and sixty 5 days and not permit it visit seed. i think that's the reason you're no longer prevailing this long conflict. Digging them up won't help – the seeds will nonetheless be there.

Answer 7

if you want to kill your grass just don't water it if you are sold on a chemical use one that is environmental friendly and one that will only kill grass but you can still grow other things and to the guy who said gas are you that dumb lets have gas get into our drain system i hope you do know when you burn something it stimulates new growth i have been doing landscaping for well over 30 years

Answer 8

Round up works great. If you live in the United States you could try calling your County Extension Office and ask for the person who deals with horticulture / agriculture...they are educated in safe practices with chemicals and plants.

Answer 9

you have to read labels!!!! if you want to kill grass and then re-plant, you need something different than a vegetation killer, some last for up to a year. go to a local garden center/nursery/landscape n feed store and start reading and asking questions (only do a wal-mart/lowe's/home depot if you're desperate- all new kids who could give a crap) have fun!

Answer 10

Roundup or Kleenup. Spray it on, wait about 10 days or until everything turns an odd orange color, roto-till it all under, and replant.

Answer 11

Round Up. . .you need to make sure it's not going to rain for a couple of days after you put it down.