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surfing waves near the shore are preffered

2007-07-17 08:27:24 · 3 answers · asked by jreed2349 1 in Science & Mathematics Earth Sciences & Geology

3 answers

dumb question doesnt deserve an answer.....anyway someone already took the time to do it so im not going to again

2 points!

2007-07-17 08:47:06 · answer #1 · answered by njdevil 5 · 1 2

This question is basically meaningless. The volume of water displaced by a wave would depend on the height and length of the wave.

I suspect you're more interested in how much it will hurt when you wipe out off the surfboard? That depends on the height of the wave, and the amount of turbulence. It's not the weight of the water, but how fast it slams you into the surface that hurts.

2007-07-17 15:44:55 · answer #2 · answered by dansinger61 6 · 1 0

Well, the density of sea water is about 1027 kg/m^3.

So, if we estimate a largish wave as being a sort of equilateral triangle shape, say, 3 meters tall, and extending 100 meters down the beach (just a guess), we end up with...

Cross-sectional area of the triangle
A = 1/2 * b * h
A = 1/2 * (3.4641 m) * (3 m)
A = 5.196 m^2

Volume of the wave
V = A * L
V = (5.196 m^2) * (100 m)
V = 519.6 m^3

Weight of the wave (rho = density, g = gravity)
W = V * rho * g
W = (519.6 m^3) * (1027 kg/m^3) * (9.81 m/s^2)
W = 5.24 * 10^6 newtons
W = 1.2 million pounds

So, the total weight of all the water in our wave is 1.2 million pounds, or about 600 tons.

2007-07-17 15:42:13 · answer #3 · answered by lithiumdeuteride 7 · 2 0

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