beardies??

Question

so i was looking around for a beardie, and i saw a couple of colours. what are the different colours that i can get? [keep price in mind too] also, how messy are they??

Answer 1

There are tons of color morphs in beardies...
Here's a good site with lots of pics of them:
http://www.dachiu.com/gallery/pix.html

Here's a list with prices:
http://www.dachiu.com/adults1.html

Here's different breeders:
http://www.sapphiredragons.com/htm/bearded2.htm
http://www.beardeddragons.biz/color%20morphs.htm
http://diamondbusterdragons.com/

As you can see they can be very exspensive.
If you are a fist time keeper, I recomend you do not get a color morph, they tend to be more sensitive and need an experienced keeper. I would recomend, you keep some normal morphs and learn what you can about them before you move onto colors...
Contact some of the breeder and ask them the differences and which one seem to be hardier for a better opinion..

I hope this helps...GOOD LUCK!!!

Answer 2

http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html

http://www.reptilerooms.com/

http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/home.html

Do lots of research...they are wonderful but have some very specific needs. Usually the reddish or more orange ones command a higher price.

Answer 3

Color is for breeding, if you want a pet it doesnt really matter. They are pretty easy to take care of. Great pets for newbie reptile owners.

Answer 4

sorry can't do fancy blue links alright there is leustic, sandfire (expensive), snow, citrus(what i have rare bout 125$), blood red(EXPENSIVE), albino( on black market not avaliable to public)

My source is based in Irving,Texas

Answer 5

they come anywhere from a red color to a bright yellow color. a baby is about 10$-20$
a juvenile and a adult is probably about 30$-
100$. the mess depends on the size but keep in mind that they cant have iceberg lettuce and need plenty of sunlight to live
they cant be under 60degress or they will die.Eastern Bearded Dragon (Pogona barbata)
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Class: Reptilia

Order: Squamata

Suborder: Sauria

Family: Agamidae

Subfamily: Agaminae

Genus: Pogona


Species
Pogona barbata
Pogona henrylawsoni
Pogona microlepidota
Pogona minima
Pogona minor
Pogona mitchelli
Pogona nullarbor
Pogona vitticeps





[edit] Characteristics
Bearded dragons have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately 20 inches head-to-tail. If startled they will expand a spiny pouch under their jaw to make them appear larger. Males are slightly longer than females, but females are slightly heavier. They owe their name to a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head and base of the tail. As juveniles, they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are mostly terrestrial but climb to bask and search for prey. They inhabit mostly open [[woodl


[edit] Distribution and Life Span
All species are native to Australia, but they have been exported worldwide; and due to their convenient size, hardiness, and omnivorous diet, they are popular reptile pets. They are one of the most popular pet lizards in the United States and Canada. Bearded Dragons live for 8-12 years with proper care. Some owners reported bearded dragons that lived 15 years. The life span depends on the quality of their lives (correct temperature, lighting, diet and care). Solid substrates, such as paper towel (for babies) or non-adhesive shelf liner are considered the safest. This is because of the risk of impaction, which occurs when too many indigestible particles (sand, kitty litter) have been ingested and are clogging the digestive tract. Like many reptiles, bearded dragons require UVB/UVA as well as an appropriate heat lamp, to maintain correct basking and ambient temperatures.


[edit] Feeding
Bearded dragons are omnivorous, meaning they eat both insects and plants. The ideal staple for these lizards are gut-loaded crickets (gut-loaded meaning pre-fed before feeding them to your lizard for at least 24 hours; do not go for vegetables or scraps as these are not nutritious to your bearded dragon). Commercial gut-load cricket foods are available [1]. Many breeders have shifted away from the use of crickets and are opting for the more easily gutloadable superworms as a main staple in the bearded dragon diet. Hornworms, butterworms and silkworms are a favorite choice by breeders as well since they grow quite large, and with silkworms and hornworms, a few of them can fill the bearded dragon up as opposed to feeding 50 to 100 crickets a day. Any food fed to your bearded dragon should be dusted with a calcium compound twice a week and a vitamin and mineral compound once a week to ensure that they are getting proper nutrition. The size of the insect must be smaller than the space between its eyes. Never feed it fireflies, as this is fatal.

Bearded dragons also eat a variety of leafy greens. Collard greens being a favourite among many. Examples of everyday greens are as follows: collard greens, mustard greens, squash (acorn, scallop, hubbard, and summer), turnip greens, alfalfa plant, romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, asparagus, and parsley. A mixture of these plants make a delicious salad for a bearded dragon to enjoy.

A common problem with bearded dragons as pets is their refusal to eat vegetables. Usually this can be solved quickly by mixing greens with crickets or worms.[1]


[edit] Species
Recognized species of bearded dragons:

Eastern or Common Bearded Dragon, Pogona barbata
Black Soil Bearded Dragon, Pogona henrylawsoni
Kimberly Bearded Dragon, Pogona microlepidota
Western Bearded Dragon, Pogona minima
Dwarf Bearded Dragon, Pogona minor (some authorities group this with Pogona minima)
Northwest Bearded Dragon, Pogona mitchelli
Nullarbor Bearded Dragon, Pogona nullarbor
Central or Inland Bearded Dragon, Pogona vitticeps, the most commonly kept pet.

[edit] Breeding
Due to domestication, beardies have exhibited rather unique colorations. These "designer" dragons display brilliant hues of pastel oranges, violets, and reds. The most popular morphs thus far has been the "sand fire" and "tiger" dragons. Much like designer dogs, the price tags of these customized pets are many times the price of "generic" ones. Currently, breeders are working towards and showing some progress of developing a green morph. Since breeding beardies is a relatively new area, it may take some time before that dream of a green dragon is fully realized.


[edit] Personality
Bearded dragons are known to be very docile and trusting, yet at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards. Their behaviour includes body language such as head bobbing and leg waving. Some owners have mimicked these behavioral patterns and have successfully aroused a mirrored response in their dragons.

Pogona vitticeps is the most docile and friendly of all lizard species which is why they make desirable pets. Unlike iguanas, monitors, water dragons, and the flightier lizards of the exotic pet trade, bearded dragons tend to enjoy human contact and to be handled by humans. They rarely bite, scratch, or otherwise attack a human. As a result, bearded dragons are a suitable reptile for younger children (always with proper supervison).

They can have up to 50 eggs a month. Females have been known to eat the eggs that were not fertilized/stillborn.

Just as dog owners find they cannot keep two males and one female as it causes dominance issues, the same rules are true for bearded dragon owners if they plan on owning more than two dragons. If an owner desires three dragons to be kept in the same habitat, two females and one male is the best situation. If there are two males and only one female, this will cause dominance issues and the males may even end up fighting to the death.


[edit] Captivity Habitat
A popular size enclosure for baby bearded dragons is 20 gallons; adults require enclosures of 40 gallons and larger, with 8 square feet of floor space being preferable. An average life span for a bearded dragon is eight to twelve years. Thus bearded dragons should be upgraded to adult-sized enclosures within the first year of life. Baby bearded dragons should use astro turf, so they do not get sand in their eyes or eat the sand.

Bearded dragons also like to bask on rocks, and they use the edges of rocks to shed their skin as well. It is important you have at least or two good "basking rocks" in your dragon habitat. However, you should only use naturally formed medium to large rocks (such as finding them in your backyard, in the woods, etc. though sometimes pet shops will sell large rocks for reptile basking). Do not use electric or battery powered heating devices such as HotRocks™ because they can cause stomach burns and flesh tearing on bearded dragons and pretty much all basking reptiles, especially babies.

In addition to basking and shedding, the other reason why having at least one or two large rocks in the dragon's habitat is to successfully simulate its natural habitat. Most bearded dragons come from desert environments, which get cooler by night. Bearded dragons need a rock they can burrow under to sleep for the night, to give them shade and coolness.

In addition to rocks, the playful and active bearded dragon needs things to hide, burrow, and play in. Pre-made holey logs sold in pet shops are ideal for this.


[edit] Diseases
When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures and UVB lighting, bearded dragons are hardy lizards. They are also pets who do their best to hide health problems when becoming ill (as do most reptiles). This is probably an instinctual behavior, since a sick dragon in the wild would probably not live long. The most common diseases they get are: mites, terminal ingestion, thermal burns, calcium deficiency, impaction, hypovitaminosis A, respiratory infections, dehydration, stomatitis, internal parasites, coccidia and other parasites, dystocia (egg binding), and MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease).