Can you refinish only a section of a wood floor instead of the whole floor?

Question

We're buying a house with hardwood floors and they're in pretty good shape but there's a section that is scuffed badly. Would be great if we didn't have to sand and stain the entire area.

Answer 1

If it were me I'd tape off the area I want to 'redo' and this is the area I'd sand with an 80 Grit sandpaper to rip through the current finish. Once I have gone as far as I can with that I'd move to a grit 100 to get whatever was left behind and level out the surface. If there were holes or gouges I'd use wood filler for small ones, wood putty for the larger ones. Let that totally dry before begining to sand with the 100 grit - but once you do begin the goal is to get the floor level with the surrounding area(you may have to lift the tape to check for level occasionally).

You will want to get what is called a 'Tac Cloth' >> "They are super sticky cloths I use in finishing furniture to get all the saw dust / debris up. It is better to do it this way than to '' Blow it Around ''
If a stain is to be used now is the time to do it.

Now take a #0000 Steel Wool and go over the entire surface only "ONE TIME" with the grain of the wood. This will knock down any raised fibers caused by the liquid in the stain - I do this step even if I have not stained the wood.

Now sand with a 220 Grit Paper, and this step I like to use my orbital sander.
Once it is really smooth you can apply the finish.

Use a clear " Polyeurathane " but it must be applied correctly.
First do the whole tac cloth again to get up every piece of dust - what you do not get up will show in the end.
Once that is complete use a brisle brush and dip just the tip of the brush into the Poly, you only want the tip to be wetten to the point you can barely tell it is wet. If there is too much on the brush then tap the side of the can to get it off.
Apply the poly in " Thin coats." You never want a thick coat to be applied- thin is always better, and thinner is best.
Allow 24 hours to totally dry, then apply two more coats.
I sand very, very lightly with about a 250 Grit sandpaper between coats. I use a tac cloth on the entire surface before applying the next coat.
I do not sand before the final coat.
If I am ready to apply the final coat, but it really needs to be sanded then I will sand it and plan on an additional coat. Once you reach the point, after three where you no longer have to sand the next coat will be your last, don't hold so fast to the three coat guideline that you refuse to sand imperfections out before that coat. If you see them sand them and just apply an additional coat. But make every single coat really thin when you apply it.

If a custom stain was used on the rest of the floor then you'll need to contact the manufactorer to find out what that mixture is before you can stain it - so it all matches up in the end.

If the stain matches up with the original section, and if the floor is level with the original floor and you follow these directions you will have a great looking section that you will not be able to tell from the original ...

remember : belt sander is good for 'ripping off a finish'
But an 'orbital sander' is great for finishing wood.
Do not use just one type of sander for the entire surface you should have both ( even if you need to rent them).

Answer 2

To get an even finish throughout the house - you can have the badly scuffed areas sanded , stained and finished - will run about $2.50 a square foot - the rest of the house can be buff and coated - the top layer of urethane knocked off and another applied - runs around .75 a square foot. That will give you an even finish throughout - without all the dust and down time.

Answer 3

It really depends on how bad the damage is. There are refinishing kits that can be pretty effective but without seeing it I really can't say. Besides you would need to know the color for matching purposes. I would consult the local listing and see what advise they can offer. Also any floor covering dealer can steer you in the right direction.

Answer 4

If the area isn't to far gone, you can sand it lightly, and the use a spray lacquer. The lacquer imitates the urethane on the floor. It dries fast and you can blend it in. It is available at any hardware store.

Answer 5

I would do the entire room to get an even color and coat. I don't think anyone can tell you how to do this without seeing it.
It's not that much more to do the entire room then just one spot, you might as well do the whole room.

I've done many places and it's just as easy to do the entire room.

Answer 6

You can but find out exactly what the previous owners used for stain. You need the brand name and exact color of the stain.