I just got my baby leopard geckoes friday and they arent eating what can i do?

Question

I tried crickets, mealworms, blueberries i dont want to force feed but if i have to how do i do it

Answer 1

it could be that the babies are too young to eat.
we got our bearded dragons as hatchlings, and though the breeder claimed they were about 4 weeks old, they were more like 4 days.
some lizards just wont eat that young, and you might have to wait another day or two.
also, if you traveled a lot with them, they might be stressed, and therefore just don't want to eat. riding in the car for a long time might've jiggled them around enough that they don't want to eat. just keep popping four or five teeny, tiny crickets in there, and they should get over it soon. make sure you're feeding them pin heads crickets, 1/4 inch or less.
do NOT feed the meal worms. lizards don't tend to chew, and mealworms have been known to eat it's way back out lizard babies. EW EW EW EW EWWWW!!!

Answer 2

No fruit! Check out http://www.drgecko.com/substrate.htm

Here is a good caresheet:

Housing in Captivity:

The cage setup for leopard geckos can be as simple or elaborate, as you like. A single animal can be maintained in a ten gallon aquarium (though a 15 or 20 is preferred) with a paper substrate. If you prefer, they can be maintained on reptile carpet or non-adhesive shelf liner. The use of sand as a substrate is not recommended for leopard geckos. They will occasionally ingest too much sand in their craving for calcium or accidentally during hunting activities, causing a sand impaction that could become quite serious.

Leopard geckos will choose one comer of the tank to relieve themselves, and use it solely. This facilitates cleanup. You can place a piece of paper towel in the appropriate corner, and spot-clean quickly and easily. Leopard geckos require a cage temperature about 88-91F. A heat source on one end, which will provide a thermal gradient in the cage is recommended. This is best accomplished with heat from underneath. An under the tank heat mat can be stuck to the bottom of the tank at one end. Hot rocks do not provide the necessary cage heat, and have been known to cause severe burns. Red incandescent bulbs can be placed above one end of the cage not only to provide additional heat if needed, but also provide light to view the animals in the evening when they are active. It is important that the nighttime temperature not drop too low (about 80 degrees F at the warm end) or the animals will not eat. As the geckos are nocturnal, expensive UV lights are not necessary.

In addition to hiding places at both the warm and cool ends of the cage, a plastic shoe box or small freezer container, with a hole cut in the lid or side, is provided for the geckos. Inside the box, there is a damp peat moss/vermiculite mixture or folded paper toweling. This hide box not only provides a place for females to lay eggs, but also provides the humidity required for the geckos to shed properly. Spray the hide box daily as needed to keep moist, but not drenched. If a moist area for shedding is not provided, the shed skin may remain on the toes and constrict, eventually causing the loss of the toe.

Groups of juvenile or female leopard geckos can be maintained in the same cage. Young animals, however, must be housed with others of their own size, or the smaller animals in the cage will be dominated by the larger ones, and will not do well.

Food and Feeding:

Leopard geckos can be fed mealworms or crickets, with an occasional meal of wax worms. When maintaining a large colony of geckos, mealworms are significantly less work than crickets. There appears to be no significant difference in health or growth rate between geckos fed crickets or meal worms. Wax worms are a good supplement or treat, but are too fatty and not nutritious enough for a regular diet. Start with a feeding schedule of once daily or every other day. Babies seem to prefer to chase their meals, adults will eat mealworms out of a shallow dish. Feed early evening if possible .The geckos soon learn when it is dinner time, and will come out of their hide boxes to eat. Some appear to enjoy being hand-fed. Feed as many mealworms/crickets as they will eat in a single feeding. If the animal eats what is provided, put in a couple more food items to see if they are eaten as well, to help gauge the correct amount of food. Be sure to remove any crickets that are not eaten in a feeding, as they will annoy and unduly stress the geckos. Baby geckos that are getting enough food will shed every two weeks or so. Adults should be hefty, but not obese with a nice, fat tail. Leopard geckos require a shallow dish for water and a calcium source. Crickets and mealworms need to be dusted with calcium; also, the leopard geckos will lick the calcium powder right out of a shallow dish if provided. The crickets themselves need to be fed a cricket gutload formula and be provided with a shallow water source. If not, they do not provide good nutrition for the gecko.

General Information:
Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) or leo for slang originated from the Middle East - Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan area. Adults can obtain lengths of 8-12 inches long and 60-100+ grams (g) in weight in captivity. Babies are around 3 inches and average 3g in weight. Leos are a terrestrial animal which means they are ground dwellers that stay on the ground. Being nocturnal they are most active at night. They are one of the most popular and easiest geckos to keep in captivity. This care sheet will give you the info you need to keep your gecko happy and healthy. And with proper care a leo can easily live up to 20 years.


Maintenance:
Cleaning is important and needs to be done on a regular basis. If you’re using paper or paper towel change it every week or sooner if needed. I also recommend disinfecting everything with a chlorhexidine solution. It will safely sanitize everything.

Answer 3

get them acclimated to the cage then feed them, give it about 2 weeks

Answer 4

Give them water, and make sure they aren't figting. Males wont eat if they are fighting!