Red-eared slider won't eat?!?

Question

I have two baby red-eared sliders (they are about a year old). I got them a few weeks ago from a friend's mom who no longer wanted them. I take them out of their tank and put them in a smaller one to feed them so their tank doesnt get as messy. I usually feed them separately so I can moniter how much they are each eating. I do this every other day or so. The first week or two I had them they both seemed to be eating fine. Last week I was on vacation so I had a friend feed them. This week I have noticed that one of them is not eating like he used to. He used to eat about 5 or so turtle pellets, but the past couple times I've tried to feed him he has only eaten 1 or 2. Maybe I'm just paranoid and over reacting.. but I don't want him to be sick and not know it... I've read that loss of appetite is a sign of respiratory infection. I'm feeding him the same food he's always had and he has a basking dock and eat lamp and does everything else normal, so I dont know what could be wrong with him

Answer 1

I suggest changing up his diet a little bit to make him more interested in the food. The color red usually catches a turtles eye, try feeding him some red fruits and veggies. My red eared slider loves tomatoes and frozen dried shrimp. I mixed in a box of shrimp in with his normal pellets so he get a few tasty shrimp now and then in his food. I give him tomatoes 2 times a week. If he still doesn't eat after a few days on his new diet, I recommend calling a vet and talking to him over the phone. (it's free and fast!)Good luck

Answer 2

Need more info. They need a variety in their diet. At that age they need mostly leafy greens and vegies, and some protein. Turtle sticks should only be a part of the diet. A heat lamp is good, as is a basking place. But the temp needs to be monitored with a digital thermometer--it needs to be around 95F(for proper digestion) on the basking area (located at one end of the tank). A UVB bulb over the basking area is absolutely necessary in order for them to metablolize calcium and prevent disease. Get a reptile bulb like Reptiglo 10.0 or Reptisun 8.0. The size tank needs to be 10 gallon for every inch of turtle. So if you have two 4 inch turtles, you should have at least a 75 gallon tank. Water level should be 1.5 times shell length. Water should be heated and there should be a powerful filter to help with cleaning. Water changes should be frequent, as filters do not remove ammonia. For more care info, I recommend www.austinsturtlepage.com.

Answer 3

I had a similar problem, but with RES who were like 1.5 years old. Turns out we had not been closely monitoring the temperature of their tank, and with the change of seasons, and our pitiful excuse for an air conditioning system, they were simply too cold! We quickly went out, upon realizing this, and purchased a more effective heater and a better heating lamp... now they are eating just fine, and have been for months. "Fine" here meaning "everything they can catch/all the freaking time". :) So, water temperature may be something you want to check also.

Answer 4

Oh my I feel like I am on repeat here!!! I have saved this to word and keep copying and pasting it...Hope this helps I leave my young ones in their original tank to feed YES it is messy, but they are timid when it comes to being moved to another container....Just need to change the water more is all. New environments and ppl will also have something to do with the turtles diet!!!

Hatchlings up to 3-4 inches
once a day
1-2 pellets, treat of protein, offering of plant matter, small 2 cm block of cuttlebone every 3 days

Sub Adults 4-8 inches
Feed every 1-2 days
2- 3 pellets, protein
large plant section
cuttlebone 3-4 cm every 3-4 days

Adult 8 inches or larger
feed every 2-3 days
3-4 pellets, protein- medium amount ex....couple of greens dandelion leaves
whole cuttlebone


"Bugs" and animal matter:
slugs
beetle grubs
worms
crickets
grasshoppers
beetles
moths
sow/pill bugs (click here for more info)
millipedes
crayfish (crawfish)
cooked shrimp (easier to come by than crawfish)
cooked fish and whole uncooked feeder fish
pinkies (new born mice)
lean meat
silkworms
butter worms
and just about any other bug you can catch including stink bugs.

Vegetable matter:
Apples
strawberries

black berries
blueberries
Other berries
cantaloupe
honey dew
musk melons
corn
Tomatoes
turnip greens
endive
collards
spring mix
mushrooms
squash
pumpkin
mallow leaves and flowers
hibiscus leaves and flowers
grapes leaves and fruit
opuntia pads and fruit.

Wild diet is about 75% or more 'bugs'- worms, insects, snails, arthropods, etc. The rest is a mix of vegetation they can gain access to.

In captivity, we want to aim for a balance. My recipe is:
- 1/3rd live insects, worms, 'yard bugs', etc. Avoid mealworms- their shells are too hard to digest well.
- 1/3rd other meats like turtle pellets, canned box turtle food, cooked chicken, organ meats, sardines and bones, weight-control cat foods (if dry, pre-soak), etc.
- 1/3rd 'salad' of a mix of dark leafy greens, yellow-orange veggies, berries, mushrooms, etc.

For water, use a non-tip bowl that is easy for it to crawl into and out of for soaking, no deeper than about
1.5-2", and big enough around to let the turtle soak at least some of itself.

Answer 5

why don't u feed him a couple of crickets and add some pellets see what he does.