Can you sheetrock over a brick wall?

Question

We have a hideously discolored wall of brick in our home which also contains a fireplace. I would like to sheetrock over it and add a wood mantle around the opening of the fireplace. Any suggestions or warnings on this????

Answer 1

Frame it out in 2x4 lumber and nail to that. You'll need to either lag off to existing framing, or use liquid nails adhesive to avoid having to drill and place masonary bolts.

Answer 2

Okay, this is actually very easy. Everyone is right to a point.

What you want to do is fur out from the existing brick wall 1/2" and use 2x4 framing wood (pine) if you want to add electrical outlets. You can use 1x to save space without electrical. At the bottom layout the "base plate" and screw into the floor then at both sides double the studs into the the base plate by "toe screwing" into it (at an angle). Then add the "top plate". be sure to leave clear about an inch from the existing ceiling. Then space inside studs every 16" or equal close to that distance the span of the wall. Do this on both sides of the fireplace box. If the hearth is flush with the wall leave a 12" space for tile or marble to be set around the box. At this point you can run electrical if needed. Then you can start screwing in the sheetrock or drywall. Spackle, sand and paint.

Good Luck

Answer 3

If the chimney is located behind the brick wall, check the local building and fire codes. You should not be attaching anything combustible to a flue structure (chimney). There minimum clearances that must be maintained where enclosing a flue.

If their is not a chimney behind the wall, it is not recommended to use glue - in most municipalities it is against code to depend entirely on glue to fasten strapping to any wall. It must nailed, screwed or a top and bottom plate fastened to the ceiling and floor respectively using at least 2 X 2's. 2 X 2's are very flimsy, it is better to use 2 X 4's

Answer 4

I would use 2x4 and screw them to the brick wall every foot and a half. Make sure to use concrete screws if you don't you will mess up your wall. Then you get enough sheetrock to cover that area from your local supply store. And get 2 1/4 drywall screws. As you are screwing them into your wall go every six inch with a drywall screw. Good luck

Answer 5

buy 1 inch by2 inch wooden strips,this will not take away a lot of the room area,use a masonry bit to drill holes on wall and screw the wood strips to wall,buy 1/2 inch Sheetrock and attach to wall using 3/4 inch Sheetrock screws.you could use 2by3 or 2by 4 wood studs, but this will decrease your room area.

Answer 6

I like flying finns' method. It is allot simpler and less messy. If you start drilling and screwing, hammering in tapcons and such, you'll have brick dust and dirt all over the place. Construction adheasive is very good, provided there is no loose paint or deteriorating bricks.
One other suggestion. Use greenboard. If there is moisture coming thru the bricks, mold can develope behind the drywall.

Answer 7

You'll need to put up wooden strips on the brick so that you have something to attach the drywall to. Make sure the screws you use to attach the drywall to the wood are not longer than the combined thickness of drywall and wood or the screws will go through the back of the wood and push it away from the brick.

Answer 8

While considering the nature of fireplaces one should never introduce combustible materials in order to build-out or away from the fireplace opening. You would need to first extend the fireplace opening using solid masonry (cinder block filled with mortar, solid concrete, concrete lined with firebrick...); this masonry needs to be a minimum of 10" thick, or 8" thick if using firebrick to line the inside of the opening (firebrick must be 2" thick plus 6" solid masonry). The mortar joints must be 1/4" or smaller. Once you have achieved extending the fireplace opening, then you may proceed with furring out the surrounding area. I hope this was assumed with the other responses.

Answer 9

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Answer 10

you probably should have left the brick up and just painted it. cheapest and easiest way. I am assuming you are renting so you don't want to sink in a ton of money. Yes, comm. grade carpenting can go on cement floor.