My Goldfish?

Question

I have a 3 year old Pom-pom Goldfish. When I put food in He and his Friend Buster, 61/2 yrs. Always eat as Much as They can. Today I fed Them and Pom-pom wasn't diving for the food. He only ate when one floted in front of him. What's wrong with him? His fins Directly below the Dorsal fin I think it is called the Ventrical Fins is ripped up a little. Please help me!

He gets Fed 3 pinches every other day
There medium sized Goldfish

I have no sharp objects in my tank

Hey little fishy I think he's used to his tank and tank mate by now, HE'S BEEN IN THIER FOR 3 YEARS!

Now a fish in my other tank is laying on the bottom in a corner and is breathing fine, but not moving. He is one of my active fish. All my other fish are healthy!

I changed 20% of the water in my tank yesterday and that little fish that was laying on the bottom of the tank died:( My Goldfish dosn't seem any diffrent so I'm going to change some more today.

I have declorinator that also neutralizes ammonia and I put some in should I put some in everyday?

I just added 8 drops of stress zyme to keep their tank clean and 20 drops of insto chlor and a cap full of Goldfish conditioner this morning and this afternoon. She is starting to swim sideways:(

I just got back from my aunts and he like barly breathing!!! Please help!

Answer 1

What size tank are they in? If you have two goldfish in the same tank, and they've been in it for several years, they may need a larger tank by now, especially if they're in a 10 gallon.

Split fins can be a sign of ammonia poisoning as well as physical damage. Although the tank size may have been okay when your fish were small, goldfish tend to grow rather quickly. The larger the fish, the more ammonia they produce, so a larger tank/more frequent water changes are needed. You can check this easily enough by having your water tested (by your pet store if you don't have a kit of your own).

Loss of appetite is another symptom. Here are others you may want to watch for: http://www.fishdeals.com/fish_diseases/ammonia_poisoning/ Try a 25% water change and see if this helps (if you want to have your water tested, take a sample before you do the water change). If you sample tests high for any of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, you may need to do some additional water changes over the next few days - typically 25% once a week is recommended, but if the levels are getting high too fast, you may need to do changes more frequently.

ADDITION: You need to stop adding things to the tank that probably aren't necessary. The only thing you should add is something that will remove chlorine or chloramine (find out from your water company which they use). And be sure your product says that it REMOVES chloramine, not "breaks the chloramine bond". This last product is worse than useless, because all it does is take one toxic product and turn it into two!

And you only add the water treatment when you change the water - too many chemicals can hurt your fish, rather than helping him.

Answer 2

Ammonia locks should be used in an aquarium. They really aren't good for the tank since they mask the real problem. Sounds like you have been doing a good job so far. What has your water been testing at? What is the temperature? Your fish's fins could have been torn from a number of things including just playing.

Goldfish have no stomaches and I am sorry to say they need fed everyday and 2-3 times per day not every other day. Fish need to eat every day.

Gold fish have all kinds of strange habbits however it sounds like an oxygen problem more than anything else. Try dropping your water level 1/2" this will help. Also test your water and keep the ammonia lock out. It will give you false readings as well as not allow the nitrites to use the ammonia to convert to nitrates. Your biofilter may be out of whack.

Answer 3

Okay, I have two goldfish and I love them as much as you love yours ... so you are probably going to be very surprised at what I'm about to write. YOU ARE FEEDING YOUR GOLDFISH WAY TOO MUCH FOOD. Because of that they are eating way too much, and peeing and pooping way too much, and are getting SICK because their water isn't 'right' for them. I'm guessing that Pom-pom got his name because he looks like he has 'pom-poms' ... and those beautiful fins are EXTREMELY DELICATE. If the Ph of the water is off, the fins may start to break down, which is why it looks 'ripped up a little' ... and because Goldfish are so small, what looks like a 'little rip' to you may be a 'critical cut' to your fish.
CLEAN THEIR TANK IMMEDIATELY! If necessary, go to the pet store to buy some liquid that takes all of the chlorine and other 'bad chemicals' out of the water, and be sure to get a 'fairly large' bottle (at least 4 ounces) because you are going to need to 'change the way you take care of your fish' and the FIRST thing you'll be doing is giving them new water every WEEK. Once they are in a clean tank (and wash EVERYTHING, rocks, plants, toys, in PLAIN HOT WATER and rinse it thoroughly. NEVER use any soap or chemicals on your tank, inside or out ... they can kill the fish very quickly.) Next, stop feeding your fish daily ... and don't let them EVER eat as much as they can. I tend to 'overfeed' my two, but I want them to grow to be 'carp' (at least a foot long) but I only give them about ten pellets every other evening ... and that is OVER feeding them ... I could feed them only twice a week and they'd still grow, but it would be 'slower' ...
I hope Pom-pom survives, but if he's not eating he could be 'extremely ill' and may not live ... and if he dies, you should change the water IMMEDIATELY and keep Buster isolated (by himself) for at least two weeks before you get a new 'friend' for him. Good luck ...

Answer 4

Im not an expert so I recomend you look for Goldfish sites that are on the web.One thing I really know is that Goldfish are very fragile. Although the only experience I've had is with the ones calles Common Goldfish, not Pom-pom
I wish you luck :-)

Answer 5

As long as he is eating, I wouldn't be too concerned at this point. If he continues to act this way for a few more days, then you will need to look into potential causes.

MM

Answer 6

somehow it may be sick.
you don't overfeed him right?

the ventrical fins are ripped up? hmmm could be fin rot, or there may be some parasites that loves nibbling. or maybe you fish hurt himself when accidentally swimming near sharp or pointy object...

Answer 7

Maybe he is just getting old. or is having a bad day?

Answer 8

it may just not be hungry

Answer 9

About goldfish varieties: Goldfish originated in China, but are now wide-spread, with feral populations well established in many areas. In China and Japan, goldfish have been selectively bred for many centuries, being kept first in ponds and then indoors.

The wild form of the goldfish is an undistinguished bronze coloured fish with a typical cyprinid shape (left). From fish like this, the well-known orange-gold form was bred, followed by other colour forms and varieties.


Modern goldfish can be categorised into two main groups. Basic varieties, which are very well-known and bred in large numbers, and fancy varieties, which show more specialised characteristics and are much more selectively bred. The basic varieties can further be split into two types: single tail and twin tail. All the fancy varieties of goldfish are twin-tailed fish.

By far the best known goldfish now is the comet ( above right). This single-tailed variety is similar in shape to the wild form of the goldfish, but more alongate and with longer finnage, particularly the tail fin. Comets can be bronze coloured (as the wild-type goldfish), various shades of orange, white, or red and white.


A calico variety of the comet is known as the Shubunkin (above left). These share the same shape as the comet, but have a metallic blue base colour spotted with white, black, red and blue. (more about comets & shubunkins)

The most basic of the twin tailed varieties is known as the fantail goldfish. All twin tailed goldfish have a shorter, fatter body and double tail fins. They should also have paired anal fins. Fantail goldfish show the same range of colours as the comet, ie bronze, orange, white, red and white, as well as calico colouration similar to that of the shubunkin. (more about fantails)

A fish that has the short, round body of the fantail but only a single tail is known as a nymph. These are not bred specifically, but often occur in the offspring of fantails as a throw-back to their single-tailed ancestors.

From the basic fantail, many other varieties of goldfish have been developed. One of the most popular is a black variety with telescopic eyes, known as the black moor. It is a quirk of goldfish genetics that these black fish always have telescopic eyes! However, telescopic eyes also occur in fish of other colours. Other coloured fantails with telescopic eyes are known (not surprisingly) as telescopes. (more about black moors & telescopes)

Fancy varieties of goldfish are specially bred to bring out particular characteristics such as: elaborate finnage (butterflytail), different body shapes (eg, Ryukin, celestial, lionhead/ranchu), a fleshy head growth (orandas, lionheads & ranchus), unusual colouration (Panda, blue oranda). Some of these strains seem to be completely different fish from the basic goldfish types, but they are all the same species, and all can interbreed. Descriptions of these fancy varieties (as well as further information on the basic types) can be found here.

Maximum size & lifespan: Goldfish do have the potential to grow quite large. Straight-tailed varieties have been recorded to around 40 cm, and other varieties have been reported at over 35 cm. However, most specimens will not reach these sizes! The growth rate of goldfish is variable, and their final size dependent on the conditions in which they are kept.

That said, it is a myth that a goldfish will grow only to the size of their tank. If a goldfish is kept in a small tank, fed only a small amount once daily, and the water changed regularly, it will grow only very slowly and may live for several years, reaching a maximum size of maybe eight to ten centimetres. It is true that the growth of a goldfish may be somewhat stunted in a small tank - a high nitrate level is known to stunt growth - but growth is slowed, not stopped altogether. However, if fed too much, or if kept in a tank that is not sufficiently filtered or maintained, a goldfish will simply grow to the point where its tank will not support its wastes and will succumb either to poisoning as a result of waste build-up or to disease caused by poor water quality.

The main factors which control the growth rate of goldfish are feeding and temperature. Goldfish will grow faster if they are fed a higher protein food, or are fed more often (more on feeding), and, given an adequate food supply, they will grow faster the warmer the water temperature (more on temperature). In ponds, goldfish usually grow quite slowly, as their growth rate is minimal over winter. They may grow to around 15 to 20 cm but possibly more. If kept indoors in large, or heated, aquaria they will reach this size sooner and potentially grow even larger. Straight-tailed varieties will attain a greater length than twin-tailed types, but since twin-tails are fatter, their actual mass may be even more.

Like the maximum size, the lifespan of goldfish is also variable. The record is 43 years, but it is uncommon for goldfish to live this long. Goldfish usually live quite long when kept in large aquaria or outdoor ponds, up to 15 to 20 years is not unheard of. In smaller or heated aquaria, a lifespan of five to ten years is quite achievable. As mentioned, the most important factors when keeping goldfish in small aquaria are careful feeding and adequate filtration and/or maintenance.

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Water quality, temperature and conditions: Goldfish are one of the hardiest of all types of fish, and are able to withstand a wide range of water conditions. Straight-tailed varieties are most tolerant, able to withstand temperatures from just above freezing to well over 35°C, pH from below 6 to over 8, and exceptionally hard water. However, the ideal pH is neutral to slightly alkaline (around 7.5), moderate hardness, and a temperature of between 15°C and 24°C. Fantail and Black moor varieties are also happy with these conditions, although they can tolerate periods of cooler or hotter temperature (from about 10°C to 30°C). Fancier varieties are best maintained at around 18°C, they may be susceptible to fungal infections and fin rot if kept at low temperatures for prolonged periods. At higher temperatures the water should be kept well-aerated. Goldfish can tolerate the temperature itself quite well, but may suffer due to lack of oxygen.

Goldfish like a tank with plenty of swimming room and are not particularly fussed about the presence or absence of decorations. The straight-tailed varieties are ideal fish for ponds. Fantails are also hardy enough to be kept outdoors in most parts of Australia, but it should be noted that they are slow swimmers and so may be susceptible to predation from birds and cats. Proved plenty of shelter or cover the pond with mesh or netting if need be.

Goldfish in tropical tanks: Goldfish are quite able to tolerate tropical temperatures, but some considerations should be made before adding them to a tropical aquarium. Firstly, they will grow faster at these warmer temperatures, and so should not be mixed with very small fishes (see next section for more about compatibility). The tank must also be large enough to allow for this. Secondly, they will produce more waste than under cooler conditions, and often stir up the tank with their constant digging and foraging. Many tropical fish will not be happy in these conditions, although strong filtration and regular maintenance may overcome this problem.

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Behaviour and compatibility: Goldfish are quite peaceful fish, but their size should be taken into account when choosing tank mates. As with any fish, they may eat another fish if it fits whole in their mouth. Therefore, very tiny tankmates should be avoided, although most taller bodied fish are quite safe. Goldfish are quite social with others of their own species, and will sometime school, but are also quite happy on their own.

Other points to consider when choosing tank mates for goldfish are:

1. Goldfish are quite messy fish that produce a lot of waste product. They also dig in the gravel and may stir up the sediment. Therefore, they are not good tankmates for delicate tropicals that require very clean water. Good filtration and regular maintenance help.

2. Although not at all aggressive, goldfish are constantly on the move and basic varieties will always be the first to food. They are greedy and can eat copious amounts. Fish which are timid or slow to feed are likely to be shy and may even risk starvation if kept with goldfish. On the other hand, many fancy varieties are slow swimmers and may have trouble finding food themselves.

3. Despite their size, goldfish are not recommended for tanks containing aggressive or nippy species. Straight-tailed varieties may be fast enough to avoid fin-nippers, but twin-tailed varieties are not agile swimmers and their long fins make tempting targets. However, they can be mixed with certain non-aggressive species.

For basic goldfish varieties (comets, shubunkins, fantails):

In unheated aquariums, small goldfish can be mixed with most small to medium coldwater fish (examples). Larger specimens can be combined with medium to large, non-agressive coldwater fish (examples).

If kept in a tropical community tank, medium to large non-aggressive species are suitable companions, but avoid those species that are timid or which demand very clean conditions. Ensure filtration and maintenance are adequate to cope with the extra wastes produced.

For fancy varieties (including moors and telescopes):

In unheated aquariums, small specimens can be mixed with most small to medium coldwater fish (examples). Larger specimens are best kept just with other similar fancy goldfish or with fantails, although certain coldwater fish can also be kept (eg Black widows, Corydoras catfish).

If kept in tropical tanks, only slow-moving, placid tankmates are recommended, but avoid any species that require very clean conditions. Ensure filtration and maintenance are adequate to cope with the extra wastes produced.

Goldfish & plants:

Goldfish are not suitable for planted tanks for two reasons. Firstly, goldfish forage continuously for food, and will browse on plants, particularly fine-leaved varieties. Secondly, they often dig in the gravel and can uprrot plants or damage their stems. However, if provided with ample food, goldfish will be less likely to eat the plants, and so tough-leaved types can be kept, so long as these are well-rooted. Plants grafted onto rocks or wood (eg anubias, javafern) are good choices. Of course, it is not essential to have plants, goldfish are quite happy with artificial decorations.

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Feeding: Goldfish are omnivorous and do not require quite so specialised a diet as tropical fish. Foods designed for goldfish are usually lower in protein and fat than tropical foods, and made with a fairly high content of vegetable matter. It is generally recommended not to give goldfish too much protein, as this can lead to constipation and intestinal problems. However, a slightly higher protein level is desirable in some cases. In fancy varieties a higher level of protein is desirable as this encourages the development of the fleshy head growths in Oranda and lionhead/ranchu varieties. If you wish to grow your goldfish a higher protein diet will also result in a faster growth rate. A higher protein diet can be provided by using specialty goldfish foods, or by offering tropical foods or a mix of tropical and goldfish foods. Where goldfish are kept in small or unfiltered aquariums, it is not recommended to give high protein food.

To avoid dietary problems, it is a good idea to include shrimp-based frozen foods and vegetable-based foods as a supplement. This is particularly so when a higher protein diet is offered, but is recommended in any case. Frozen shrimp is also good for promoting the red-gold colouration of goldfish. Flakes or granules are suitable for small goldfish, for larger fish, pellets are usually more economical.

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Breeding: Goldfish are egg-scatterers that do not provide any care for their young. Breeding occurs most readily in large ourdoor ponds that are well-planted. Goldfish will not breed in crowded conditions. Summer storms are often the catalyst for spawning. Goldfish can be encouraged to spawn in indoor aquaria by gradually raising the temperature and then performing a large water change. Goldfish must be a reasonable size to be mature, around eight centimetres is the usual minimum for succesful breeding. There are few visual differences between males and females except when ready to breed. Females that are ready to spawn will usually be plumper, and often larger on one side than the other (although this may not be obvious in rounder-bodied varieties). Males develop breeding tubercles, tiny round white spots, on the gill cover and along the front edge of the pectoral fins. Mature males also show a thicker first ray to the pectoral fin outside of the breeding season. The eggs adhere to floating plants and should be removed to a separate aquarium for raising. The eggs take up to 6 days to hatch. Very fine live foods, eg infusoria, are usually needed to raise the fry. Frequent feeding is important, as are daily water changes to keep water quality high.

Commercial and experienced breeders are able to strip eggs and sperm from mature fish. In this way breeding can be highly selective. It should always be remembered that all types of goldfish can interbreed, so if different types are kept together, some interesting offspring may result!

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Recommendations: Goldfish are hardy and showy fish. The basic varieties are a good beginners fish, although it should be noted that maintenance is far easier in larger filtered aquaria than in smaller aquaria or bowls. Fancy varieties require a little more care, but are not difficult to keep.