2002 Chevy Cavalier, push on the gas and the engine dies, but if I barly push it, it runs normal. Whats wrong?

Question

Just changed fuel pump, fuel filter, tested alternator and battery(Both good), new spark plugs, cleaned fuel injectors, and it sounds like a timing issue, what should I check next?? Starts up fine, idles fine, but give it some RPMs and It back fires

Answer 1

sound,s like a vacuum problem.........check the exhaust gas recirculation valve.....then all sensor,s......including the map sensor.......then check for manifold leak,s...good luck!

Answer 2

Whens the last time you replaced the plug wires? Does it act different when its cold vs hot? If it does, there's a 90% chance it's the plug wires. If not, and if you have the money to spare, they could use replacing anyway and there's still a good chance. How does it idle? If it idles the same as it use to, then that's fine. Do you smell fuel when you give it a lot of throttle? If so could be one or more of your injectors spraying improperly or clogged. Have you worked underneath the hood prior to having this problem? A grounding issue causes these same issues as well. If not grounded properly, the car will idle fine and if you give it little throttle it runs ok but when you give it alot of throttle it runs like trash. There's numerous things this could be, if your not up for trying all these possibilities then your best bet is to have it diagnosed at the local mechanic shop and maybe you can do it yourself. I believe a diagnosing fee is something around $100, otherwise you can just pay them to fix the problem if you have the cash to spare.

Answer 3

I agree with most of the answers here, I just wanted to add that just pulling the code will not tell you what sensor it is. It will tell you the problem though. For one code, there could be 5 things that could have caused it. That's why there is a charge for diagnosis, they follow specific procedures to find the actual cause. It is actually a time consuming, labor process. In most cases it is cheaper than just replacing parts that could be the cause of that code. But occasionally you will get a problem that is pretty straight forward, like an oxygen sensor. So why don't you try going to autozone or another parts store first and find out what the code is and what it relates to. If you go to autozone they can give you the printout of the code, and the possible causes. Don't just take the parts guy's word for it, find out what things could have caused it and decide if it is worth trying to replace the part and hope it was that part and not something else. If you are pretty dang sure that it is the one part and not any other, than try replacing that. But if you aren't sure, replacing parts can get pretty expensive. Like on my car, the code that recently came up could have been caused by the oil temp sensor, the sensor connector or just a loose connector. Why buy a part when it might not even need it? And in most cases, when the light comes on, the car will drive fine and drive normally. You wont notice any problems, because the light is emissions related. So you could be producing more emissions and the car still runs fine, just because a sensor or something is out. P.S. if it were just a matter of pulling a code, and no diagnosis was ever needed, everyone would be very happy. People wouldn't need to pay 75 bucks or more, and shops wouldn't have to invest thousands into training and equipment but unfortunatly we just aren't there yet. Nobody wants to pay if they don't have to, but people do because many times you just have to. If you ever tried to fix a light before by replacing parts and it didn't work, you would be more than happy to just pay 75 dollars and know for sure what it is. And if you do decide to pay for the diagnosis, find out what they are going to do. They should be able to clearly explain the diagnosis procedure they are going to do for that exact code, since the procedures can be very different for different codes. If they can't explain it go somewhere else, they likely don't know what they are doing, or don't have as much experience as they should. Oh yeah, another thing that sometimes happens is one part will go out but it will affect other parts, setting multiple codes. A good tech would know which code is likely to set off the others (and would be confirmed by his diagnosis) saving you quite a bit of money compared to just replacing multiple parts. His diagnosis could determine that you need to replace just one part, which when replaced and working correctly would fix everything. The average driver (or parts guy) isn't going to know that, but might think that all of those things are wrong and need to be fixed.

Answer 4

check condition ov vacume hose to map sensor it may be pinching shot under high vacume conditions [idle] the map sensor may be bad as well but over the years these have gotten more reliable

Answer 5

it is the throtle positioning senser most likely take it to a shop and tell them to put it on the computer and it will say exactty what it is