It' a simple straightforward job. Jack up one front wheel at a time unless you have a hydraulic floor jack and jack stands to place under the uni body frame behind the struts. All the hardware is mounted with metric bolts. With the wheel /s off squeeze the outer brake pad against the rear of the caliper with a big "C" clamp. Remove the caliper from the caliper bracket and tie it off with a small rope or clothes hanger wire so the brake hose does not support the caliper. Remove the two caliper mounting bracket bolts. This must be done to allow you to remove the rotors. They pull straight off with your hands.If they seem stuck a couple of light swats with a dead blow hammer on the reverse side will release them. If your rotors are rusty on the outside edges and badly grooved there may not be enough stock (thickness) for your local auto parts store to turn them. If you live where you get any snow whatsoever and plan to keep your car over two years do not be tempted to purchase off-shore brake rotors. The metallurgy is very poor and they'll rot off your car in that period of time. Both NAPA and Carquest has either Canadian or USA made premium made rotors. They both sell the off-shore stuff also for $20.00 - $25.00 less. Please don't let economics take the place of good jugement.
Buy a tube of synthetic brake grease to lubricate your slider pins. If thet look rusty, corroded and will not shine up with a Scotch Brite Pad spend a few bucs for four new ones with a fresh set of pin boot rubbers. Brake pads are a very personal choice. Ceramic pads don't eat up your rotors as quickly as semi metalic and kevlar organic (Green Stuff -brand name) pads never wear rotors.
Very important: Pick up a tube of CRC Brake Quiet at NAPA. Apply a coating of .060 - .090 of this high temperature silicone material on the reverse (steel) side of your new brake pads. Let the material dry for 20 - 30 minutes. This material prevents unwanted brake squeel and vibration.
It helps to put a lug nut or two on the stud and snug it directly on the rotor to keep it straight while bolting on the caliper bracket and caliper. Remove the lugnuts and put the wheels back on.
Be very caucious to pump your brake petal a minute or two with engine on while transmission is in park.
If your car has rotors in the rear your caliper pistons may need to be screwed back into the caliper. This can be easily determined if the outer caliper piston has four slots evenly spaced 90degrees from each other around the outer edge. A special 3/8 drive tool needs to be purchased at NAPA or Carquest to do the job. It costs $12.00. Again they have an off-shore one for $8.00 skip it it's pot metal.
2007-07-02 14:18:35
·
answer #1
·
answered by Country Boy 7
·
0⤊
0⤋
They're not a problem. Once the wheel is removed there's only two bolts holding the caliper on the rotor. Access these from the engine side ( lean in over top of the rotor and look at the backside of the caliper, you'll see them) they should be allen headed bolts with little rubber covers over them. Remove these and the caliper will wiggle right off. The rotor will now pull off the spindle. Replace it with the new one. Go under the hood and open your brake fluid reservoir. Then remove the old brake pads from the caliper, pay attention because they are positioned a certain way. They will go back in the same way. Then take a C clamp and compress the piston in the center of the caliper. (the round 'cup-like' thing with the rubber around it) Squeeze it back till it's flush with the surrounding area. Put the new brake pads back in the caliper. Replace the caliper on the rotor and put the wheel back on. Thats alot to remember, buts that 's basically how you do it. Hope it helped. Good luck to you.
2007-07-02 12:39:29
·
answer #2
·
answered by CrossTwnTraffic 6
·
0⤊
0⤋
Everything is easy if you know how. Get a manual that explains what needs to be done. A Chilton's or a Haynes manual. It will have pictures and instructions on how to do it.
There isn't that much to it. The only thing is that you may need to take the rotors to a machine shop and have them turned, unless you spring for new rotors also. Good luck.
2007-07-02 12:28:31
·
answer #3
·
answered by Fordman 7
·
0⤊
0⤋
I found doing the same job on my car extremely easy. I agree that a manual will help but if you want to feel out the job first go to the local pick,n,pull and give it a try on a donor car first. I had to do this for my 92 impulse because I cant get a manual anywhere. If you have disks in the back you may need a special tool to rotate the pistons in the rear calipers.
2007-07-02 13:43:01
·
answer #4
·
answered by Yoda O 3
·
0⤊
0⤋
Buy yourself a Chilton Or Haynes manual for your vehicle. The manuals give you a pictorial with a step-by-step procedure. Only take one side apart at a time, therefore you can look to make sure the installation is done correctly.
_ _ _
2007-07-02 12:27:59
·
answer #5
·
answered by Mr. T 7
·
0⤊
0⤋
no matter how good you can follow instructions i would not do it. when dealing with somethin so important as brakes you cant afford to mess it up. could cost you, or someone else thier life. and trust me, your life is worth more then a few hundred bucks. be safe
2007-07-02 12:30:11
·
answer #6
·
answered by UK all day! 2
·
1⤊
0⤋
yes it is very easy to do i do my own get your self a hanes book on it and read up on it .and then go to your local auto parts store for the parts and have the book with when you do it and you will be fine
2007-07-02 12:29:50
·
answer #7
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋