To acquire a healthy lawn, you need to have good soil and a great irrigations system. Since your current soil is in such poor shape and you're basically starting from zero, here's my recommendation on what to do;
1) Apply granular gypsum at label recommendations. Gypsum helps loosen compacted soils, prevents crusting of soil, increases the stability of soil organic matter and provides a source of calcium to plants.
2) Apply a generous amount of clean compost (4 inches in depth) and steer manure (1 to 2 inches) over the entire area of your yard and water. The beneficial bacteria and fungi in the compost and manure will slowly begin to help loosen the soil...allowing water and oxygen to the soils. They will also help bind soil particles together so the soil becomes more manageable. AND the organic matter provides an excellent food source for microbes and earthworms which help aerate soils. Water the compost every 3 or 4 days...this will allow the "compost tea" to seep into the soil below.
3) After a few weeks, you should see an improvement of your soil. The soil should become more manageable (softer). Stop watering and then roto-till the entire area to a depth of 5 to 6 inches or more. You may need to make several passes to insure thorough incoporation of the compost into the soil.
4) At this time, either purchase a pH meter at your local hardware store or take a sample of your soil to the nearest County Farm Advisor's Office to obtain a proper pH reading. You may have to add lime (if your soil is acidic) OR some soil sulfur (if it's above 7.0). Ideally, you'll want the pH of your soil to be around 6.5 to grow a healthy lawn. Once you obtain the pH of the soil, add the amendments (lime or sulfur) and roto-till again.
4) Install your irrigation system...preferably on electric timers so you can water up to several times a day. Make sure you get proper overlap between sprinklers to insure adequate coverage of the entire lawn area.
5) Smooth the entire area to be planted...making sure you eliminate any low areas to prevent water from accumulating. A landscape rake is ideal to do this job.
5) IF you choose to sow grass seed, select a grass that is best suited for your climate and conditions of your yard. That is, if you have lots of trees, you may want to consider a grass that can tolerate shady conditions.
IF you choose to start from sod, your local sod farm should be able to advise you on what is best for your situation. It's a good idea to read on how to properly install sod...especially if you've never done it before.
Prior to broadcasting seed or installing sod, I would advise you to apply a starter fertilizer such as a 6-20-20. This will insure that your roots/seedlings will have the proper nutrients.
6) Broadcast the seed (I always use more seed that what is recommended to insure proper germination) and use a roller (optional) over the top to insure that the grass seed is in contact with the soil. You may want to spread a thin amount of compost/fine mulch over the seed to protect it from drying out between waterings.
IF you sod, make sure you place the sod as tightly together as possible.
7) Water 3 times a day....preferably once in the early morning, once late morning and the last watering to be completed by 3 or 4 P.M. Try to avoid watering in the evening or night because this may cause watermolds (such as pythium) to develop and kill your seedlings.
Continue to water for at least 2 weeks (or longer) until you begin to see adequate germination. You may need to broadcast more seed in certain areas to fill in "bald spots".
NOTE: IF you happen to live in an area where summer temperatures are high and choose to sow by seed, I'd advise you to wait till fall before you begin this process. High temperatures will dry out your grass seed between waterings and you'll most likely end up with scattered results.
Sorry for the lengthy response but thought you could use this information. Hope this helps get you a healthy and beautiful lawn for your kids. GOOD LUCK!
-Certified Professional Crop Consultant with over 30 years of experience and a Degree in Plant Science
2007-06-30 14:47:13
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answer #1
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answered by jazzmaninca2003 5
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You have a trade off there between spending money or doing a lot of hard work. You are going to have to dig up the soil down a foot or so, mix in some soil conditioners (like mulch) to improve its texture, and then rake it so it is smooth to provide the surface that the grass will grow on. Cheapest approach is to get a pointy shovel and start digging for quite a while. More sensible approach is to rent a rototiller and plow it all up within a day. While you are doing the digging or tilling keep throwing the conditioner into the soil as it is turned under. Get a rake and take out the lumps and get the surface level.
Now you face the next decision. If you can afford it go for turf that you put down like carpeting (a few dollars per square foot). That has the advantage that your kids can be playing on it in a few days. Otherwise get a hydro-seeding company to come in and spray a mixture of shredded green paper/ fertilizer/ seeds all over the area. In a couple of weeks that will be started but could take a month till it is usable for stepping on. Cheapest is to get a big bag of seeds and sprinkle it all over (probably about $10 for enough to do 5000 sq feet). That will take all summer to be walkable.
Use a hose and sprinkler to keep that new growing grass moist every day or so.
2007-06-30 11:32:15
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answer #2
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answered by Rich Z 7
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I moved to a spot used to dump rocky clay from a clay mine. It didn't even grow weeds for years before I got there. I didn't want a lawn but I wanted a garden. I covered the area with six inches of old hay in the fall and left it until spring. In the spring I planted tomatoes and had a huge crop. The hay got thinner as the worms came back. I moved to the other side of the hill and left it alone. The grass is growing thick where the garden once was. I never plowed or planted grass seed but if I need fishing worms, thats now where I dig first. I think the hay gives cover for the worms and the worms do the tilling and repairing. It also lets it stay a little moist and that helps them.
2007-07-04 10:00:07
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answer #3
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answered by Laura B 3
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My suggestion to you is to till it up to get the soil loosened up a bit. I would have a soil test done to see what nutrients your soil really needs. Just adding lime will change the ph of the soil when maybe it doesn't need to be or maybe the soil needs to be more acidic so you would add sulfur. Have a soil test done to see what your soil really needs. As for sodding vs. seeding sod is more expensive but it will give you an instant lawn. Seeding while cheaper can take up to 28 days to germinate depending on the type of grass. Seeding also requires more watering in the long run because the seeds need to stay moist to germinate. Depending on your knowlege you may want to have a local landscape or turf company come out to your house and take a look. It may cost more but your lawn will most likely turn out better in the long run.
2007-06-30 12:29:13
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answer #4
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answered by pontgranprix 3
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You need to amend the soil, Have somebody bring a dump truck full of horse manure, but before you dump it, have somebody bring a tractor with a plow, and plow up the dirt, put the manure on it, then have them bring a tiller on the back of the tractor, till it all in real smooth, and then rack it down to refine it, add new grass seed, throw some fertilizer on top, and you will have a pretty lawn in about three weeks.
2007-07-01 09:31:16
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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It might be a good idea to plant some grass. Keep it moist for the first 2 to 3 weeks then water once a week and fertilize once an inch or two above the ground.
2007-06-30 13:42:31
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answer #6
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answered by Zachary M 1
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start with turning the sprinkler on it. Just turn it on low and let it soak in for a few days. Until you can loosen the soil with either a shovel or tiller. No matter which way you choose it is going to be hard work. But once you get the soil loosened and get the grasss growing it will all be worth it.
2007-06-30 15:50:34
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answer #7
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answered by kolorz 4
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Rototiller. The whole yard, mix with some good dirt and till it again, smooth out with rakes and seed it, water every evening or morning.
2007-06-30 11:56:05
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answer #8
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answered by dtwladyhawk 6
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Scratch the ground the best that you can and pour lime on it and water. It will take about 3 years but is cheap. Other wise you will have to replace the dirt. Lots Of Lime not what it says on the sack!
2007-06-30 11:21:56
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answer #9
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answered by Anonymous
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2017-01-27 01:03:21
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answer #10
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answered by ? 4
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