I'm going CRAZY!!! Help!?

Question

I just put my car (2000 Civic) in the shop for the 4th time because it keeps losing pressure in its brake system. Originally, I was told that the problem was a leaky cylinder on the rear drum, that cost me $200 to replace. Then, as my pedal kept becoming slacker (I'm just losing pressure, not actually leaking brake fluid), I had the master brake cylinder changed. But now 3 days later, the travel (or slack) in my pedal has doubled, so I just dropped it off again. This garage is normally the most competent and honest around, and I've been there a dozen times before (so much that I'm on a first name basis with the owner). I've never had to have anything redone by these guys. He told me that basically every part of my brake system has been thoroughly replaced or inspected, but that he'll look it over anyway. What else could be causing this? Thank you.

When I said that I've been there a bunch of times, it was to have repairs done on my 86 Cadillac, which I sold and replaced with the Civic. The Civic has been a great car and this brake issue is the first real problem it has had. Mind you, I deliver pizza and often drive 100+ miles a day (which is why I am so adamate about having my brakes in perfect shape)

They have had to flush and refill the system several times already.

Answer 1

It is probably a vacuum leak. replace the hose that goes from the master cylinder to the intake manifold. if that doesn't do it then theFITV valve may have a leak. also, go to superhonda.com forum ....the IAC valve on the manifold. it is often the culprit when honda's have an idle issue or a vacuum leak.
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259965

Answer 2

Dear Civic-

It sounds to me like you may have several problems.

Here is what I suggest doing on your own with a friend.

Bleeding the brake system is a fairly simple task, though if your vehicle is equipped with ABS, you could have a faulty valve, but we will get to that in a minute or two.

My guess is that air is somehow being introduced to the system. Bleeding the brakes properly should solve this issue.

In the past years this was done by two persons on the vehicle unless you had a power bleeder. The one person would obtain a bleeder wrench of the proper size and follow the next set of instructions .

Working from the Farthest point on the car to the nearest point , (Passenger's Side Rear Wheel to Driver's Side Front Wheel) Top off the Master Cylinder with brake fluid. Depress the brake pedal 3 to 5 times making full and complete stokes, meaning all the way to the top and down as far as the pedal will go. Then on the last stroke hold the pedal down. The person under the car slowly opens the bleeder valve and allows the brake fluid to bleed out.

The person in the car needs to follow the pedal all the way to the floor and hold their foot in that pedal until YOU indicate that you have completely tightened that bleeder valve back up. Repeat this process for each wheel until there are NO MORE AIR BUBBLES spitting out of the bleeder valves.

Remember to top off the Master Cylinder on every wheel before you start bleeding them out. You cannot allow the person to release the brake pedal until you have the bleeder valves retightened every time.

This may take several passes on each wheel to get it bled properly.

OK, not here comes the fun part.

If you have ABS on your vehicle I would not suggest bleeding the system yourself. On some of the ABS Systems there is a pressure reservior that maintains a certain amount of pressure in the ABS Valve. If you loosen the bleeder screw on one of these wheels, you could take a chance of completely draining your system and damaging the ABS Control Valve. That is BIG $$$$ to repair in some cases.

In this case, if your car is equipped with ABS, I would suggest taking it directly to your Honda Dealership and letting them do the work. Some of the private shops are ill equipped to deal with these newer cars, (regardless of how many years you have been using them). True they could be a very reputable shop, but just keep in mind, their establishment must work on whatever vehicles come through their front door, and they may not have the proper information available to them to correct the issue with your vehicle. This could be one of those cases. Especially if there is some type of factory recall that may apply to this particular problem. In that case, only the dealership would know. Especially if you are the second owner.

Auto Manufactuers are only responsible for notifying the Origional Owner of the vehicle about any factory recalls. Keep this in mind. The reason for that is, the purchaser gave them all of their mailing information upon the purchase of the vehicle when it was new. They will not have your information until you visit the Service Department at your local Dealership.

Good Luck.

Answer 3

I'm not sure of all the work that has been done. One thing I will say is that the brake fluid needs to be flushed out and replaced with new. Old fluid will absorb water, and when the brakes get hot, it will boil the water and then you have steam or air in the lines. This will give you the problem with the brakes. Other than that you have either a wheel cylinder or a caliper leaking and sucking air.

Ask the shop owner if he has flushed the system and refilled with new fluid.

Answer 4

First of all, 200 dollars to replace a wheel cylinder is kinda excessive. Now, is your pedal just mushy or travels farther down than before. If you pump your brakes up and hold your foot on the pedal firmly, does the pedal slowly go down? If it does, you probably have air in the lines and needs "bleeding". Other than the soft pedal, does the brakes work? One other suggestion. If bleeding does not work, the master cylinder could be "by-passing" and is defective.(Yes, you do get defective new parts sometimes). If your mechanic is as reputable as you say, he shouldn`t have let this car go back to you without recognizing the problem in the first place.Check all new connections and ensure they are tight.

Answer 5

Did they flush out the fluid and put in a fresh set, that's a major cause of brake pedal going to the floor

Answer 6

the new master cylinder is defective from factory.

"new" does not always means "perfect".

also like Duce said ,replace the fluid.

Answer 7

MAKE SHURE THE LINES ARE NOT LEAKING AND THAT THE PEDAL IS AJUSTTED RIGHT AND THAT THE BREAK BOOSTER ISNT LEAKING AT ALL HAVE THEM PRESURE TEST THE BREAK SYSTEM AND MAKE SHURE THERES NO AIR IN THE LINES AS THATS WHAT WE DO CONSITENT WITH ARE SYSTEM WE DO...........

Answer 8

Buy a new car