I want to insulate a bare concrete floor which may be subject to some moisture and I am using ceramic tiles on top. I am not using underfloor heating in this project. I would like to use Marmox (tile backer board) but the commercial boards I've seen are too thick (6mm). I can use Depron as that comes in 2mm and 3mm but it doesn't say it has an application for ceramic tiled floors. Any thoughts on whether Depron would be a workable and how to apply it?
2007-06-27 23:05:29 · 6 answers · asked by fluffy2560 2 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
I should say the concrete is already down but it's old, perhaps 30+ years and I don't really want to take it up to stick in some insulation because of the hassle in re-laying it while we're still using the room (it's a kitchen). I think it's damp simply because the previous occupants glued down lino tiles with bitumen, then modernised with some more lino on top and it's trapped all the moisture over the years. It's also an old house (100+ years). We've just removed all the lino but cannot get the bitumen off properly even with a heat gun. I've only got about 8-10mm to work with in height so I'm struggling with say self levelling compound (2mm) ceramic tiles (say 3 or 4mm), tile adhesive (say 2mm) and some decent insulation (2mm?). It's very tight on height. Any ideas for insulation? I was wondering about trying to find some sort of insulating tile adhesive.
2007-06-28 04:52:47 · update #1
Whatever your choice why not then add a vapor barrier beneath. Depending on how WET your concrete gets, it is still likely to effect any mortar under your tile install.
With all due respect also, I would advise against GLUING down a sub floor.
2007-06-28 00:57:34 · answer #1 · answered by DIY Doc 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋
You need to start with a clean floor. I would recommend getting a floor scraper with a very sharp blade to remove the bitumen or try a diamond concrete grinder. Once you have a clean floor, apply a product called Moisture Fix. This product is designed for new or existing concrete to lock up all moisture in the concrete and stop any further moisture travelling through the capilliary voids in the matrix of the concrete. It is simply poured from the bucket and spread evenly around. After it has penetrated (10-60 mins), the floor is left for 24hrs, sanded and layed directly over with out the need for a self levelling compound. Further information may be found at the web address below. Hope this helps?
2007-07-01 18:51:08 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 1⤊ 0⤋
Not sure about Depron but when we laid a new cement floor we insulated it with that blue high density foam so I know it is good with cement. You could put in a small sub-floor using cut treated timber, insulate between and then lay boards before tiling but I think you'll end up almost as high as Marmox. If you're floor shows some signs of damp you may want to paint it first with an outdoor damp course. I suggest you find the reason for the damp first though.
2007-06-28 01:06:31 · answer #3 · answered by Gail F 1 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Whatever you do, before you start, be certain that the concrete floor is CLEAN AND DRY and dust/mold free. Give it a good scrubbing and let it dry for about 2 days using a fan.
*WARNING! DEPRON DOES NOT LIKE SOLVENT BASED GLUE!!
The most suitable glue for polystyrene is a contact adhesive, due to the nonporous surface. When using, always spread the glue in an even coat, on the surface you intend to stick together, and pull apart and reposition for a good grab.
All glue you use must be solvent free, bison foam friendly glue, and P.V.A. glues work.
There is a lot more help than I can post for you on the internet. Just put Depron Adhesive in your search engine.
Good luck!
2007-06-27 23:41:26 · answer #4 · answered by Cica 5 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Putting down backer board is a waste of time and money when going over a smooth cement floor. Backer board is used to stiffen up an existing wooden floor or wall. It can also be used when planning a shower to allow for build up to slope to a drain. As far as sweating is concerned backer board will not prevent it if it is a problem. It will just make your floor thicker. The sweat comes from the air contact with a cooler floor surface it is not from water seeping through the floor. A dehumidifier will help to solve this problem in the summer months. Make sure you use a sufficient base of thinset (1/4 inch trowel minimum, 1/2 inch if uneven or rough spots). Mixing a latex additive to the grout is also a good idea in below grade and outdoor grouting situations.
2016-03-19 04:54:46 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Depron Insulation
2016-10-22 10:21:22 · answer #6 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋