What type of batting do you use for a quilt that you are going to tie off?

Question

I am making a quilt and I already have the top done and the back ready, and I need to know what type of batting to use because I am going to be tying it off.

Answer 1

You can use any batting that you like. Some things you should consider, though, are how far apart it can be tied, how easy it is to get the needle through, and how puffy you want the quilt. Personally, I like a flat cotton batting better than a puffy polyester. Warm & Natural batting, for example, can be tied every 10 inches. Compare that to some battings that must be tied or quilted every 3 inches, and that makes for a lot less work. Natural fiber (cotton, wool, and silk) batting is also usually easier to get the needle through. Polyester batting usually has a scrim - a thin piece of fiber on one side of the batting. This can be a little tougher.

Personally, I prefer to use pearl cotton instead of embroidery floss or (gasp!) yarn. The yarn is pretty, but it's a real challenge to get through the layers of the quilt. Pearl cotton also ties tighter (more securely) than yarn. Use a surgeon's knot - a variation of the square knot that has one extra twist. Do NOT use a granny knot. This is what most of us do when we tie a knot, but it is not very secure. Check out the links below for more info on tying quilts, and on the specific knots.

Answer 2

I agree.... use a fluffy polyester batting for a tied quilt that you want to look puffy and be cuddly.
They come in various thicknesses, and some come as brands prepackaged by size, or in huge rolls purchased by the yard. Some are glazed on one side to hold the fibers together better since they won't be "quilted" with close stitches. The thicker the batting too, of course, the warmer the quilt, though they will all flatten to some extent with time and use. Just pick the one that feels best to you in terms of thickness, stiffness, etc.

(To create a thin quilt, or if you were doing a lot of "quilting," you might want to get a cotton batt instead of polyester.)

I've generally tied my baby quilts with baby yarn, spaced fairly far apart (8"?), and that along with the binding keeps my polyester battings from shifting just fine. I do put a drop of Fray Check or diluted permanent white glue though on the fabric at the inside and outside corners of the ties just to reinforce the fabric where it will be pulled on by the ties later.

HTH,

Diane B.

Answer 3

I some time use a light , soft blanket, you don't have to tie it so close.
If I use cotton I like the kind that don't roll up when it is washed.
And if you will tie it in the ditch it want be as hard to pull your thread through. I like to tie and follow the pattern of the quilt.
And I use a soft fussy thread , if you use a slick light thread it wont stay tied.
Tip save some of the thread, that you tie the quilt with. If some comes untied you can replace it. Just put it in a container and drop in your sewing chest . Put a note in it so, three years later you want throw it away. Queen Bee

Answer 4

You can use either 80/20 Hobbs or pollydown from Hobbs but you need to check the distance between the ties on either one you decide to use. If you want comforter type use pollydown or 80/20 for a quilted type but you have to tie closer with this one.

Answer 5

one million/two" to one million" sounds extra just like the width of a "binding" than of a "border. Whichever, I often *comprise* the batting within the each any border and any binding. There are no less than 3 functions for a slim binding, the least of that's ornamental. It's visible that it continues the batting from falling out. It's now not as routinely remarkable that it protects the perimeters of the duvet from put on, as such it's *supposed* to be periodically changed. This is very similar to braid-stitched edgings on leatherwork ... they are designed to put on away and get replaced, as an alternative than have the major component of the object put on away. If the batting isn't incorporated within the border/binding, a few put on might be focused on the fringe of the batting, requiring extra trimming of worn components with each and every re-binding, shrinking the duvet's dimension via the many years. If this can be a cover for bodily use as an alternative than a wall-hanger, there are exchange-off's on binding width. A slim binding dries quicker after laundering however presents much less safety to the brink. Is this honestly going to be a quilted cover or will it actually be a tied comforter? In my vocabulary, it isn't a "cover" until/till it is quilted. You too can use safeguard pins to tack the batting to the highest and loosely baste the perimeters of the batting, and to the turn-lining. The pins are eliminated as tieing is accomplished via all layers. I have now not located turn-linings to put on good in genuine use. They're pleasant for wall-hangings, however they pay attention put on at the edges of the highest and lining, shortening the existence earlier than upkeep might be required.

Answer 6

I use Fairfield high-loft for a tied quilt and sometimes more than one layer if I want it really poofy. Figure on tying every 3" or so and use a wool or acrylic yarn. Stay away from shiny yarns like Luster-Sheen as they may come unknotted. Use a double strand of yarn and a square knot (right over left, left over right) for the best results.

Answer 7

I have used all kinds. It really just depends how poufy you want your quilt.
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