a laminet veneer question.?

Question

How difficult is it to remove a laminet veneer from an old table and replace it with new laminet veneer? I am a fairly handy furniture refinisher but have never tried to replace a laminet veneer before. Is this something that I should attempt or not? Any thoughts on the "hot iron" vs the "glue" method for affixing the veneer to the table top? How costly would it be if I had a pro do the work? OK...you get the idea. I need suggestions/advice....any thing you can tell me will be appreciated. I'd really like to hear from pros on this one....Thanks

Answer 1

My first question... are you talking about a high pressure laminate... or a wood veneer?

If this is a wood veneer, then I would sand the surface, and apply new veneer over the old.

If this is a high pressure laminate (formica, wilsonart, etc), then you need to buy some acetone, and work in a well ventilated area.... soak one small spot, at the edge of the laminate, this will soak in under it enough that you can slip a putty knife under the laminate. Then, keep pouring acetone into the gap, and work the knife around. Give the acetone a few seconds to work each time you squirt some in (an old fashioned ketchup bottle works well for this), be careful of sharp edges -- if the laminate snaps off at any point, it'll be razor sharp.
Obviously, take the legs/pedestal off of the table while you are doing this... no need to get acetone on them.
This will take a little patience, but you can definetly remove the old laminate. And I would remove it, rather than putting a second layer of laminate on top... that would leave you with a really thick edge - too visible in my opinion. After removing the old laminate, allow the surface to dry for about a day, and then sand it, with a good belt sander, but be careful not to create any divots or sunk spots (keep the sander moving, dont let it sit in one place too long)

READ the safety hazards of working with the acetone! While acetone is safer to work with than gasoline, it is flammable... a spark can set it off...obviously... no smoking ! hehehe Any rags need to be stored in a safe place too. Do not simply throw them in a bucket in the corner of the garage, hehehe

Now, as to putting on a new layer of veneer or laminate - Most commercial applications will use some form of contact cement, cold press glue, or UV activated glue -- If you work in furniture refinishing, you should have a source to get the contact cement, in a spray version. (If you can get a product called "Sta-Put", I'd recommend it... it's in a spray can, and is as good as any commercial product Ive used in the furniture manufacturing industry, over the years). If all else fails, you can get contact cement in liquid form, and you can roll it on. Contact cement needs to be placed on BOTH surfaces... allow it to 'flash off'... it should feel tacky, but it should not stick to your finger when you touch it. If it sticks to your finger, its too soon to put the two pieces together, and you will end up with only a temporary hold.
TiteBond is also a good brand, but can turn black after setting, so wipe up any excess with a damp cloth, immediately.
If you are going to put a wood veneer down, you also have the option of purchasing pre-glued veneers... these come in heat activated, and pressure sensitive. Rockler Woodworker Supply has some good items along these lines. You can use veneer backing tape, if you need to splice multiple pieces of veneer to fit a larger project.

couple of tips here.... the surface you are prepping for the veneer, needs to be CLEAN... if there is even one speck of particle board, or wood splinter left on it, it will SHOW THROUGH. Clean it, and run your hand over it, feel for rough spots, specks, etc... then clean it again. The new veneer OR laminate, will also need to be "pressed". When I was working as a production manager, I had access to pinch rollers which would do this, and do it evenly. If you do not have access to such a machine, you are going to have to do it by hand... again, you can purchase these rollers from Rockler, or any other good woodworker supply business.
When you get ready to lay the new laminate, or veneer in place.... you can put down a layer of wax paper, or use some form of space, like dowel rods, adjustable shelf standards, etc, to keep them from making contact too soon, possibly out of place, hehehe. It's very aggravating to be laying a new veneer, or laminate, only to have someone open a door, and the wind gust make it stick before you have it in place, lol. If that happens then you have to go through the whole process of removing it again, heheheh. (been there, done that, got the Tshirt, lol)
Follow the directions on your chemicals...allow plenty of drying time between steps.

Have Fun :)

Answer 2

Most laminates and veneers are attached with contact cement. Not at all easy to remove without damaging the base material. I would suggest roughing up the old and applying new over the surface. This is doable DIY and you will probably try it after getting pro prices.

Answer 3

Check this website for veneer replacement tips:
http://capitalpolishers.com/portfolio/veneer-repair-london/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8R0Vi0xo0_U

http://vimeo.com/80749358