New engine, new /rebuilt alternator new battery
Ground cable from battery connected to alternator ground bolt, added ground wire from battery to frame. Cleaned other ground connections, added new connector harness at alternator. Connected probe light to altenator body and + of battery to verify good ground, light did come on.
With car running at idle, connect volt meter to battery register about 12.94 volts, turn on head lights register 11.84, raise engine rpm, may get 12.xx volts.
Had autozone check battery and alternator, said both is fine.(both on and off the truck)
At one time when you turned on heater blower, the battery light would come.
Also, check by connecting light probe to battery - and the other to the disconnected - cable. Very dim light due to radio.
Only other asscessories are radio and 2 200 watt amps, these connected to battery with inline fuses.
My guess is a bad volt regulator on the alternator. What else can I chec
2007-06-19 22:51:59 · 4 answers · asked by Anonymous in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
Another thought, is there a chance that the wire for the remote sensor is not working? How can I test to verify?
2007-06-20 08:57:15 · update #1
Sounds like you need a bigger alternator---your vehicle runs off the power output of the alternator when running and with 400 watt amps, the one you have probably can't keep up with running the truck and charging the battery. Try disconnecting the amps for a while and see if the battery charges ok---if it does, then that's your problem. Find out what is the largest alt you can put in the truck and go with that one...120 or better. Or buy a smaller alternator pulley that will speed up the alternator to put out more power sooner. Or buy a second battery setup. Or buy a capacitor from a car stereo shop that will help reserve some power for the amps.
http://www.carstereo.com/
http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136557&st=0&p=2322916&
2007-06-20 02:01:15 · answer #1 · answered by paul h 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The charging voltage at engine idle should read a minimum of 13.8 Volts, so your alternator is not charging the battery.
I believe your problem is the wiring to the plug-in connector on the alternator. The big red battery wire to the alternator has to go through a fusible link (see MAD's kit). The MAD kit shows your alternator's plug-in connector, and that's where you've got to make sure the wires are correctly connected to the vehicle. MAD's technical support telephone line will help walk you through the connections from the alternator plug-in connector to the truck's wiring harness. First read MAD's website page here. Also are shown the autozone alternators you could have chosen, and you need the highest amperage alternator you can get (94 Amps).
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cs-130.shtml
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/11/56/bb/0900823d801156bb/repairInfoPages.htm
2007-06-19 23:48:43 · answer #2 · answered by bobweb 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
You may have to small an alternater to power the normal electrics plus the amp Without seeing the vehicle I would estimate the standard electrics would draw about 40-60 anps and add the amps and you have another 33amps so in theory you need a 100 amp alternator at least to stop the battery going flat Watts divided by Volts = amps
2007-06-19 23:11:04 · answer #3 · answered by Duigan 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
start it up take off positive battery cable see if it stays running if it does then the alternator is good if it dies it could be the alternator or the plug
2007-06-19 22:57:15 · answer #4 · answered by marfanman00000 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋