Okay, this is the last time I will ask why my car is stalling... we hope 1 of you will solve the riddle?

Question

1988 Chevrolet Sprint....Carb, stick.

Stalls when slowing down and at complete stops.
I only get to stop about once of twice when the car first starts if I'm lucky now before it starts stalling every single time.

We have:
*checked timing chain . . .
*adjusted both cold and hot idles (does nothing for the stalling)
*changed fuel filter, *sparks *plugs are okay
also changed *air filter and *rotor .....plus *pvc valve
put *Lucas' Tune Up in a bottle in the tank
have *sprayed the choke/carb cleaner
and have checked for leakages of air in tubes.

This car runs in very good shape otherwise.

(We have a fuel pump on order and will go ahead and put it in either way it goes, so there will be one more problem taken care of in advance.)

What is keeping this car from running?
Pics Of Vehicle. . . http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2443864

Thanks again very much in advance.

Answer 1

I suspect Vapor lock. Try to reroute fuel lines and/or put heat shielding around them. Use only high flow fuel filters. You stated a fuel pump is on order. Sometimes this can solve vapor lock. Avoid using fuel additives as most of these actually have lower evaporation points than normal gas. I had a major issue with vapor lock in my 351W 90'Stang. I rerouted the fuel line and put shielding around it.

Answer 2

We had a similiar problem with the Isuzu Imark and Impulses's at the dealer I worked at. On stick shift, carbureted cars, the Japanese engineers put a check valve or diaphram/dashpot on the carb to keep the throttle from slamming shut when slowing down or stopping. Since the Chevrolet Sprint is basically a Suzuki car, it probably has the same setup.The diaphram or valve will rupture over time and cause the stalling problem. Could also be a broken or plugged vacuum line to the valve or diaphram. A shop manual like Chilton or Haynes from a parts store may help in diagnosing or Eautorepair.net has online access for a fee. Any import mechanic familiar with Asian imports of that era will probably know what to look for.
Awesome paint job on the car by the way!! Would like that on my truck.

Answer 3

Looks like your chasing a vacumn leak. Be sure and check your intake manifold for lose bolts or blown gasket.
Vacumn leaks can be located by spraying WD-40 onlong the edge of the intake; if there is a leak you will hear the engine speed up, this also applies to injectors if your car is fuel injected or under the carburator if so equipped.
Take a good look at your valve cover oil filler cap as well as the newer cars are very sensitive to any kind of air leak.
Hope this helps--oh by the way, once you find the leak you will have to go back and reset your prior fuel adjustments. jerry

Answer 4

I'd guess the idle circuits in your carburetor need a rebuild. That's typically where carburetor problems show up first: at engine idle because there's only a minimum of air and fuel flow so that the air/fuel ratio is easily disturbed. An easy way to prove it is to simply swap out your carburetor with a known good carburetor. Now if you only had a known good carburetor! So here's a brand new carburetor for your car and only $150! That's the only way you'll know for sure that it's not the carburetor causing the car to stall in my experience.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/VehicleBrowse/tf-VehicleBrowse/s-10101/N-111+1988+200728469+600002042/c-10101

Answer 5

NICE CAR!!

It seems like you've replace everything. Next time you come to a stop, at around 10 mph, put the car into neutral (before the car come to a stop). If the car does not die, then your torque converter is not sufficiently disengaging. If you added too much transmission fluid that could happen but most likely you need new torque converter.
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If that doesn't fix it, you still haven't done a complete tune up (spark plug -done, spark plug wire, distributor caps, rotor - done, coils).

Answer 6

You're getting some questionable advice here. First of all, the nonsense about the lockout solenoid on the torque converter. You stated the car has a manual transmission, so you don't even have a torque converter.

No sense sending you on a wild goose chase.

How many miles are on the vehicle?

Answer 7

Think the best thing would be to take it to a mechanic to get it checked by somebody who know what they are talking about. As somebody who works at a car dealership service dept we get many calls a day from people wanting help over the phone. the only way is to check it properly

Answer 8

All the other answers are great,I'll add my thoughts.Those cars also were noted for plugging the catalytic converter.When that happens back pressure does not allow the engine to breath properly.If not corrected valve damage is certain.

Answer 9

It sounds like to me it is a carburator problem, if it is a fuel injector engine, I would have the injector ports cleaned out, if it is a regular carburator, I would suggest a carburator rebuild, springs become worn inside, dirt and grime settles in the bottom of the bowl and doesn't let gas get to the engine.

Answer 10

I would agree to take it to a technician to have them diagnose it, you will have to pay a diagnosis fee but it's so much easier than throwing parts at the car and shot gun diagnosing it. You will save a lot of time and money this way!