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7 answers

"Square" the area
snap two perpendicular chalk lines
lay out a course with spacers just to determine "cuts"
Make all your cuts at the same time, working from any area to them.
Work with the notion that the tiles will not be stepped on for at least 24 hrs.
Insure that the floor/ substrate is proper and level
Use a Poly Blend thinset mortar
mix to a mashed potato consistency
Apply with a 1/4 inch tooth, flat blade knife
do not press tiles deeply into the mortar
use 1/4 or 1/8 spacers
remove cove base first, allowing for any OOPS at perimeter cuts
Use a level, working in small areas at a time 3 x 4 run your hand over the tiles checking raised or dipped edges.
After dry/set and moisture evaporated, remove spacers
prepare "Sanded" grout, also poly blend is a similar consistency
Use a rubberized faced trowel to spread and create a decent amount in each seam to over fill then trowel back, angling at 45 degrees of so, NOT STRAIGHT ON with the grout lines.
As the grout begins to set (More rapidly than Mortar) Wipe gently with a flat GROUT SPONGE, just damp
As the excess is cleaned up in the process repeat the sponging with slightly increasing dampness. (Any filmy residue left can be mopped after the fact.
Allow at least 24 hours dry/set time for the grout

Steven Wolf
hundreds of thousands of sq. ft. of tile

2007-06-19 02:10:04 · answer #1 · answered by DIY Doc 7 · 0 0

The A-number one most important factor has been missed by ALL the poeple helping out here, please read carefully. The primary problem with laying tile onto a concrete florr is that concrete is usally ina basement, or in a multiple unit apartment/condo building. The probelm brought up by this is that if there is ANY leak or drainage issues in anything from the floor, wall, or underground seepage You will lose the grout from underneath the tile. Grout is made by mixing a powder with water, and un-made the same way. If You're going to do this project ... Yes be sure the floor is super-clean. As far as any cracks are concerned, You may actually want to consider creating some holes to be filled with Your grout, to act as a sort of Rebar and form with the grout and concrete together. This will stabilize the subfloor of grout in case of a small leak to be repaired later so You won't have to worry aboiut the rest of it shifting and floating away, You'll just have to patch and color-match the section that gets damages directly by the water. The last item is to use the one thing most amateurs and Slumlords leave out of their grout mix. A good strong sealer or sealer/adhesive mix instead of just a simple glue. You should also use a decent (but not over-thick) coat of wax to seal the tiles from any dampness when it's finished. Before You start the project, do some research on a good mehod of sealing the wall edges from moisture and dampness from all sources, it can be a paste-on solution, a plastic solution, or whatever, but make sure You provide a strong seal from all othe rooms connecting to it, or the undergound especially. Good Luck!.

2016-05-19 11:20:28 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

You need to provide more information.


I assume this is a floor application. What's the substrate (concrete, wood, existing tile, cement backerboard)?

Different thinsets are for different applications. For instance, if you go to the home center and buy the "ready mix", as somebody here suggested, you'll be awfully sorry if you use it in a bathroom or other wet area.

Some thinsets will work on plywood, others won't. Etc., etc.

Bottom line: your floor (or wall) determines what products you will use. Get more information and get back.

2007-06-19 09:10:34 · answer #3 · answered by B 2 · 0 0

first level your floor to determine the highest level of your flooring. from there give at least 1 inch from the existing floor to serve as guide to your level for the entire floor.

then determine your setting point, probably in your front door.

make a nylon guide used as a guide for your tile. at least two nylon guides perpendicular with each other.

use a mixture of 1 part concrete 2 parts sand.

everything else is skill.

2007-06-18 20:06:05 · answer #4 · answered by pitel 2 · 0 0

Go to Home Depot, get your materials there, all pre-mix, find out when the next class on tile is and attend. You'll be doing yourself a favor rather then try and understand what some of these people here are trying to tell you.
It takes some sort of experience and skill.

2007-06-18 23:02:53 · answer #5 · answered by cowboydoc 7 · 0 1

was going to write a full guide for u but not a fast typer,best thing u can do is phone a tile shop preferably a marble tile shop cause they should know everything u need to know.

2007-06-19 01:20:18 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

what do you need to know? This is what I do for a living.

2007-06-18 20:03:46 · answer #7 · answered by ? 1 · 0 0

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