After you strip the wallpaper(by peeling by hand,took 10 days),how to proceed to paint?

Question

Is the latex paint primer terminology?

Maybe 10 days was a stretch,but this was a lot of rooms,and we are trying to get a house/not my house ,so commuted,.. ready to sell.

Answer 1

Congratulations! You've done the hard part. Now your getting ready to paint:
1) Have you chosen your paint color yet? If not, I recommend that you match your paint with something you already have - like a pillow, curtains, a picture, etc. Get lots of paint tabs and bring them home. Look at the color tabs in the exact room you plan to paint, matching them to your other items. Lighting changes from room to room, so that's why I never pick a color right from the store.
2) What kind of paint? In children's rooms, I pick a durable eggshell that can be washed. Gloss reflects too much light (in my opinion - makes it hard for kids to settle down in their rooms). Eggshell in children's rooms is washable but not too glossy. Otherwise, I like flat paint in bedrooms, becuase it makes it feel warm. Gloss in the kitchen/bath makes the room brighter and wash better. One gallon of paint will cover a 12' x 13' room with one coat.

*If you are going to need more than one gallon paint, make sure you mix the two gallons together in a 5 gallon clean bucket from the hardware store (about 2.00) before you start. Sometimes, the paint can be slightly different and you end up with different colors on your walls (this has happend to me 2x). Stir them together real well to ensure consistent color. Also, buy a roller attachment for the bucket. That way you don't have to pour the paint into a pan.

3) Prep: wash your walls with water and a cleaning solution like Mr. Clean - to make sure you have all the paper glue off. (don't use dish soap b/c dish soap leaves a sticky residue). Fill any holes with spakle and lightly sand. I like to use blue painter's tape to protect my woodwork. I vacuum the floorboards before I start because dirt can get easily get stuck in the trim paint.
4) I recommend applying a coat of primer on the wall before the chosen paint color. It helps make your finished job look cleaner. Sometimes other colors bleed under your new paint job, changing the finished look.
5) I always start with the edges. Purdy brushes are expensive, but the very best in painting good edges. I don't use any of the fancy tools because they never seem to work well. Just a 1.5 inch Purdy brush for all trim.
6) Buy a roller and roller pad. You can use an old broom handle for an extension if necessary. When you roll your paint, start with an X about 2 feet long then paint a box around the X. Fill in your box with strokes both up and down; this makes a real professional finished look.

If you are done painting for the day, but you plan to continue painting in the next 24 hours, you can cover your paint and materials with plastic (air tight) and save the project for tomorrow. If you plan to get back to it later than 36 hours, wash all your tools in warm water and store your paint in it's air tight bucket.

These are all professional tips, and I hope some of them help.

Answer 2

Are the walls even and free from all the wallpaper. 10 days is a long time. Do cracks need to be sealed? There should be a primer to apply so the plaster doesn't absorb too much of the paint.
A paint store will have the solution once you describe the bare wall. There are so many products to prime with, they will give you the correct bottle, to seal cracks, to use with the paint, whether its flat or semi=gloss, or gloss, etc.
Rest yourself, put your feet up, is how to proceed, and then go to the paint shop for professional advice so you don't waste a dime with all the work you've put into the room. Get good ventilation before you apply the primer and paint. Use a roller with an extension. They have easy half=circles to use near the ceiling to keep the painting neat, with no tape. They are like large half palettes. Are you planning new curtains?

Answer 3

Before you start, make sure that the surface is smooth. By your brief description, I am betting that some of the wall board paper peeled off with the wall papper (or there may be a few sraglers left of the old paper.) To address this you will need to skim some wall board mud, (joint compound, spackle, etc) over those areas to sooth the places out.

If you want to keep the dust down after the initial application, you can use a warm water damp rag with a tight weave fabric pattern (cloth diapers work great) to rub the area smooth in a motion like waxing or buffing a car finish.

After that, you will need paint primer to seal the old wall and the wall mud.. Then paint away.. Use a 9" roller anfd your favorite latex shade.. (then you can get into paint surface types flat, eggshell, glossy depending upon what ype of room it is...)

Answer 4

Epoxies are the best, because they don't dry, they cure. The two chemicals in epoxy are a coloring/coating and a hardening agent. The chemical reaction between the two sets up the epoxy like a solid film of plastic. So, unlike paint, it won't chip or peel apart. Also, if you prepare the surface of the concrete correctly, the epoxy seeps into the pores in the concrete and makes a permanent bond that can't be peeled up from the concrete. Depending on the amount of wear (like whether or not you are rolling heavy shop equipment over the floor), an epoxy-coated concrete floor could last a lifetime.

Answer 5

You could have used "Diff" wallpaper removed and it would have taken hours. But, that's beside the point now.
Make sure you have all the glue off, if you haven't got it all off use "diff" now, just follow directions.
Use a good primer like "Kilz" to make sure the areas that are bad will cover good. Tape the Windows, etc, all the woodwork, the door knobs, etc. Put plastic down, I'm guessing your going to roller the paint.

If you spray, do the ceiling first, then work your way down. After your done, let it dry and look it over good, you may have touch-ups.

Answer 6

as long as your walls are smooth and there is no glue residue I would highly recomend priming the walls first. It may seem like a waist of time but it will be worth the results. one to two coats of primer depending on how the walls soak up the primer. You took the time doing it right keep up the good work.

Answer 7

you need to get rid of any left over glue then smooth walls with mud then prime it (I recommend killz primer) Then your ready for paint.