How to sew together squares on a quilt?

Answer 1

typically you use a 1/4" seam allowence and sew right sides together. You have the choice of by hand or by machine. Some machines have special "feet" that keep the fabric at 1/4" . If you decide to sew hand sew I would draw a line 1/4" away from the sides of the squares for 2 reasons
1 because 1/4" is alot smaller than you think
and 2 to keep the seams straight.
there are thousands of great patterns and tips on the internet- yahoo has alot of great quilting groups also.
I've been quilting more than half my life and average a quilt a month- at least one is by hand for busy work to take to sports events with the kids, drs appointments etc and then there are the quilts that I see and just have to have.
Good luck and enjoy it

Answer 2

Sewing Quilt Squares Together

Answer 3

Since you are a beginner, I will describe a way that uses up more thread, but it will make more sense until you have done it a few times.

Start with your first two squares. Match them up, right sides together, and run one side of the matched pair through the machine with a straight stitch. Have the edge of the square along the edge of the right side of your presser foot for a quarter inch seam, or choose a line on the sole plate that will give you the seam allowance you want.

Now take it off the machine and open it up. Pick up a fresh square. Match it to one of the squares you just sewed, right sides together. Now sew it across from the seam you already made, so that you have a chain of 3 squares. Keep adding on to your chain until it equals the length of your finished quilt top, minus any edging and binding. When it reaches the right length, put it aside and make a new chain. Make as many chains as you need to get the full width of the quilt including seam allowances.

Iron all of the seams on all of your chains. The rule of thumb is to press all seams toward dark, or press them open.

Start lining your chains up side by side and sew them together, making sure that your ironed seam allowances point the right way.

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Answer 4

This Site Might Help You.

RE:
How to sew together squares on a quilt?

Answer 5

use a quarter inch seam allowance. Press every seam flat then open, clip the extra fabric at the corner before joining the next squares so there is no bulk and look up quilting tips on this site
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Answer 6

It's easier to sew them row by row. So if the quilt is to be, say, 10 squares wide, then sew those ten squares together in one row. Then do another ten square row. And you would then sew those two completed rows together, and so on for each row. Just be careful to match the seams as you sew each row together.

Answer 7

I'm going to assume you're using a machine, and you're making a quilt that is all squares, like a Trip Around the World (see link for a picture). When each row is the same combination of fabrics, it's easier to sew your STRIPS together then cut them into rows. However, you asked about squares. This is also how you would sew completed blocks together.

Lay your squares out in your desired pattern. Pick up the first row, keeping it in order and stacking it so the left-most square is on top. Pin or clip the group together and label with the row number. If you're doing blocks, be sure to indicate which corner is the top left. Repeat with the second row.

At the sewing machine, pick up your top square from the first row, then the second square from the first row. Flip the second square over and place on top of the first square, right sides together. Sew a 1/4" seam along the right edge. WITHOUT cutting the thread, do the same thing with the first two squares of the second row. Leave the pinned note on the first square of each row so you don't forget which is which. After you've sewed the first two squares of the second row together, clip the thread between the first and second pairs. Leave the second pair in the machine. Open the first pair, pick up the next square from the first row, place face down on the second square, and sew your 1/4" seam. Clip the thread between the second pair and the first group, open the second pair, place the next square, and so on. By working with two rows at once and chain piecing them, you'll waste less thread and have less mess, plus it will be faster and more efficient. Don't bother pressing while you're sewing - just sew all of the squares together until you have two complete rows. Repeat this with all of the rows.

When it's time to put the rows together, decide what direction you want to press the seams. Personally, unless I'm working with a very thin light fabric that shows through, I'm less concerned about pressing to the dark fabric. A bigger consideration is how easily the rows will go together. I like to press all of the seams in the first row to the left, then all of the seams in the second row to the right, third row to the left, fourth to the right, etc. The reason will become clear as you sew the rows together.

Lay the first row face down on top of the second row. Feel the seams - press them between your fingers. If the seams aren't scootched up against each other, you can feel the space between the two seams. Slide the rows until the seams line up and lock together. Because the seams are pressed in opposite directions, they make little humps that catch against each other. When you press the seams between your fingers you can feel that they're flat. Put a pin on each side of the seam intersection, through all layers. Do NOT put a pin directly through the center - the pin will push the squares apart a bit. Continue down the row until you've pinned each intersection. Sew a 1/4" seam, pulling out the pins as you reach them. When you open the two rows, all of your corners should intersect neatly, without any gaps. Repeat with the rest of the rows. It's easier to sew all of the rows into pairs, then each of the pairs into quads, then the quads together. You'll be dealing with less fabric for most of the passes.

I've mentioned the quarter inch seam several times. This is key in quilting - if you sew good 1/4" seams and cut your fabric accurately, you'll have no problems. First, when you cut your fabric be sure to measure to the outside of the line, not to the center or inside. Being short just 1/16" on every square can add up.

Next, test your 1/4" seam. If you have a quarter inch foot, you can use the edge of it as a guide. Even so, you should mark your quarter inch on the bed of the machine. Take an index card and draw a line 1/4" from the edge. Put the needle down through the line and straighten the card. Draw a line in pencil directly on your machine bed. You can even go a step further and make a fabric guide. Cut through several layers of blue painter's tape (right on the roll). Peel it back and cut off a section that's 1" - 2" long. Place it on the bed of the machine so the edge is on the line you just drew. Now when you sew a 1/4" seam, butt the fabric up against the tape and it will keep the fabric straight.

Cut two pieces of fabric that are 2" wide. Sew the two together, then press open and measure. It should be 3 1/2". If it isn't EXACTLY 3 1/2", you need to make some adjustments. Be sure to sew a "scant" 1/4" - just a thread less. When you fold the fabric back over the seam, it takes up a little extra space. Keep working on this until you know where your 1/4" seam is.

Never look at the fabric at the needle. By the time it gets to the needle, it's too late to make any corrections. Make your adjustments at the guide you made, not at the needle.

Answer 8

I actually enjoy making crazy quilts. It's where you take a bunch of random rags and sew them together creatively.

Answer 9

Fabric placed right sides together, stitch with 1/4" seam allowance, press to the dark side.

Answer 10

Either by hand or on a machine.