Replacing a socket?

Question

Yesterday I noticed my fridge light was out. My first thought is the power went our because there were thunderstorms in the area but I realized that wasn't that case because all if the light in the cieling of the kitchen were still on. Next I noticed the microwave was out. The microwave is plugged into the socket a few feet above where the fridge is plugged in. Next I unplugged the fridge and plugged it into a different socket and sure enough it worked. My first attempt at solving the problem was the circuit breaker, but nothing was wrong there. Then I started thinking maybe a mouse chewed through the wire. We just sealed a few holes in the house because of mice so they could be stuck in the walls. I'm not really sure why but the latter is what I think the problem is. Does anyone have any idea on how to pinpoint it? And let's say it is a mouse-chewed wire, how can I fix that? I like doing things myself if it is easy enough but I have no problem calling the pros if needed.

Answer 1

Like the other poster was saying outlets up line could have a problem if that outlet is a feed-tho outlet. take the nearest outlet up line from the one that is dead`check all wires hot (black) white (neutral) if the outlet is a 'quick wire type' the wires are plug ed into the back of the outlet NO GOOD make sure you turn the power off. Ether make joints in the back of the box and 'pigtail' to that outlet or put the wires under the screws on the outlet itself. the gold side is the hot or line (black) the sliver side is neutral (white) and of course bear screw at the bottom of the outlet is ground. also you can look at the face of the outlet one slot is longer than the other the short slot is the hot side and the longer slot is the neutral this is a must because of positive polarity.

If a moused chewed a wire call the pro you would have to reroute the line that is 'chewed'

Answer 2

First: Buy a voltmeter. You can find them pretty cheap, around 10 bucks up to hundreds for professional grade.

Correction: first check the area around the socket to be sure there isn't a switch that controls the socket. If the socket is behind an area made for a fridge, this is unlikely, but who knows what amateur electricians can do.

Probe the wires on each side or sometimes on the back of the socket. Be careful not to touch the bare ends of the wires!
If there is power there but not in the outlet, your socket is the problem. Now that you have your trusty meter, you can turn off the power and check the lines to know for sure that the line is dead. Replacing the socket is straightforward. The wires either screw on to the sides or poke in the back. You may have to use a small screwdriver to spread the contacts.

If there is no power at the socket, your job is tougher. Home Depot now sells a voltage sensing screwdriver or wire stripper ($20/$24) that can tell where power lines are without contact. With these, you could trace the power through the walls. The problem there is that if there is no power in the lines, you can't trace them. You might be able to get a rough idea though.

Answer 3

I struggled for weeks trying to figure why an outlet had gone dead in my home last year. I finally realized that an outlet "downstream" from the one I was attempting to use was GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) type and it had kicked off. Once I reset it the other outlets worked. Remember a circuit breaker will likely power a string of outlets and lights.

So, try to see if other outlets in the area are dead or the type that can be reset.

Another potential cause is corrosion at the outlet's wire terminals when a house has aluminum wiring. Again, if an outlet in the circuit suffers from a poor connection then you'll need to address that particular unit.

Answer 4

Check for tripped gfi's first. Then start at the circuit breaker with a circuit tester. If you have 110 coming from the breaker continue testing the outlets one by one. Keep in mind that copper wire terminals can loosen or corrode as well.
If you do encounter an open wire-mouse chewed-it is usually easiest to thread new wire. Just leave the old wire in the wall since it is usually stapled down inside the wall.