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can i use compression fittings instead of soldering and what size copper do i use?

2007-06-08 19:21:30 · 7 answers · asked by Anonymous in Home & Garden Maintenance & Repairs

7 answers

Do not listen to those saying "use 1/2 inch copper". A gross generalization. Yes, 1/2" used at point of termination (directly under a sink, toilet, etc. The very smallest pipe to use as main lines is 3/4". I have used 1" on jobs exceeding 100' of main line. Consider this; 1" pipe not that much more expensive than 1/2"....but 1" is 4 times (yes, four times) more volume than 1/2". Do the math, you'll see. (area of a circle, e.g.) Piping in industrial applications 1 1/2", even 2". Bigger the line, better the water pressure.
Don't be afraid of soldering. Read a book. Practice a little. It's not as hard as it looks. Also, some hardware stores (Home Depot is one) sell "presoldered" fittings. In the long term, you'll be sorry if using compression or plastic.
A critical matter: copper cannot be connected to other metals (other than brass) including mounting brackets (use plastic or copper coated clamps) If you must connect to galvanized or black steel don't just use a dialectric union, use a brass nipple on each side of dialectric union (at least 6" each) as a buffer. Otherwise your copper will quickly corrode.
Keep future repair and alteration in mind too, allow for shut off valves and make main lines easily accessible, install tees with ball valves in areas you anticipate additions. Consider (if in your budget) designing path of pipe in a "loop"; in other words, where pipe enters house, travels toward sinks, showers, appliances, route the pipe so that it connects back near entry....not dead end everywhere. You will experience a huge difference in consistent water pressure. remember, new construction plumbing is usually performed by the lowest bidder; not in the best interest of the resident/user.

2007-06-08 20:59:50 · answer #1 · answered by Bill 2 · 0 0

First: You have to have a plan. When I did mine over I sat down and made a "road map" of my entire water system. It was a road map of the pipes and where I would put what.

I put in 1" water pipe for the main line. From the well, which I had just had cleaned and a new pump with a 1" outlet. I thought why put a 1/2" or a 3/4" line when it's a 1" I would be defeating the purpose of the well. So I put in a 1" line to all the main places where I'd be plumbing.
For the ones I used all the time, the clothes washer, the water heater, I put in 3/4" lines. Where it went to a sink IE: bath sink I put in 1/2" lines (less water use) where it went to an outside bib, I put in 3/4" lines and a 3/4" hose on the outside.

I used copper fittings and did all the work myself, new pipe. I had the pump guy set the pressure at 65 pounds with a bladder tank. I can turn on all the water in the house and still take a shower with no perceptible loss of water pressure, it's so nice.
This is the only way to go. I wouldn't think of pvc or pressure fittings, copper is made "forever" if done right.

2007-06-09 00:43:33 · answer #2 · answered by cowboydoc 7 · 0 0

for your main water lines in your home you should use 1/2" copper pipe.
This is a solder connection because it often runs through walls, or floors where a poor connection could result in a leak and be very difficult to get to, and cause problems or inconvinience until it is repaired. A compression fitting is generally used at a device and not along main runs because it is a good connection but not as good as a soldered connection. Any time you have joining in a temporary fashion, the potential to leak is greater. A temporary connection is any type of connection that can be disassembled. Solder cannot be just disassembled it has to literally be unsoldered or cut to undo the connection. I would not use a method less secure than a soldered connection for my main runs.

2007-06-08 19:31:57 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Use PEX and the new "Shark" fittings - the stuff is pretty amazing and will allow you do do some pretty fancy work in a very short time, far faster than with sweat-copper. The cost will be competitive as you can fish PEX right up through walls and around corners on a fish-wire as you would electric cables - so labor is greatly reduced. There is a company called Houseneeds (linked below) that will help you through the entire process, talk you through things over the phone (sometimes even at odd hours) and generally be very helpful - as well as sell you stuff at pretty good prices. Despite what some might think this is NOT rocket science. It just requires care, attention-to-detail and some basic practice. Were you to wish to go back in copper, or even with solvent-weld PVC/CPVC fittings, I would stop you and suggest you call a pro. But with the new PEX system and appropriate fittings things have gotten much easier both to understand and to do. NOTE: 1,300 feet rancher - about one very long day's work for two reasonably adept individuals to plumb the entirety including a water heater, washer, dishwasher, 2 baths, outside hose bib and so forth - *THAT* is the beauty of PEX plumbing. And that would include a central manifold with individual, valved hot and cold feeds to each location. Lose the manifold and do series plumbing - a short day for two, long day for one.

2016-05-20 09:18:25 · answer #4 · answered by ? 3 · 0 0

If it the main water line coming from the meter it's 3/4 and then it reduces to 1/2. That's the code in Ohio. Lowes/Home Depot have this new product out (I think it's)called shark grip fittings. They are compression fittings but instead of using a pipe wrench to tighten them they slip on. You just cut the pipe like regular and then Push them on. We just used them on a rental we own when we put a new bathroom in. They are awesome so easy! If you every have to take them off there this little orange tool that pops them off. I've been doing maintenance for 10 years. trust me you'll love them.

2007-06-09 02:02:12 · answer #5 · answered by victor s 2 · 0 0

1/2 copper is what you use. I don't see any reason you couldn't use compression fittings if you are not going to get it inspected. I used high pressure PVC on a rental unit I have and ten years ago and had no problems.

2007-06-08 19:28:55 · answer #6 · answered by rstarre 2 · 0 0

You could use CPVC, requires just glueing and watching for expansion, also useable for water to 180 °F, for the main lines use 3/4" and closer to the faucets use ½"

2007-06-08 20:04:24 · answer #7 · answered by lily_21113 3 · 0 0

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