my 1999 f150 v6 automatic will not turn the engine over all the way?

Question

my 1999 f 150 was running good , i thought the starter was bad because it slipped a few times over the winter but that problem seemed to go away until the other day when i went to start it and as it was turning over there was a "crunch" and then the starter just clicked , i replaced the starter with a new one and that didnt help , i can still turn the crank by hand but i dont think i can get a full reveloution of the engine , if i turn the engine a bit by hand it will start to wind with starter then and then "crunch " again , i didnt see any missing teeth or cracks in the flywheel when i had the starter out but did not get a full look at the flywheel anyone have any trouble shooting tips for me ? before i waste more money ! could the timming have jumped and piston be at top dead center hitting a valve ?

Please help anyone !

Answer 1

Hydro-locked piston.
Remove ALL the spark plugs and try it again.

In automotive terminology, a hydrolock is the immobilization of an engine's pistons by a liquid (usually water, hence the prefix "hydro-"). Hydrolocking occurs when liquid fills a cylinder on the intake stroke and, due to the incompressibility of a liquid, makes the compression stroke impossible. This, in turn, prevents the entire engine from turning, and can cause significant engine damage if one attempts to forcibly turn over or start the engine. Typically, connecting rods will be bent, making the engine uneconomical to repair. It is relatively common when driving through floods, either where the water is above the level of the air intake or the vehicle's speed is excessive, creating a tall bow wave.

Hydrolocking is often a concern when consumers modify their engines with aftermarket intake systems (e.g. Cold air intake). A cold air intake typically locates the filter near the bottom of the engine compartment to gain access to colder air, which can also increase its chances of ingesting water should it be submerged.

Another reason for it to occur is in the event of the head gasket cracking or "blowing", which causes the radiator coolant to mix inside the combustion chamber.

Regardless of the cause, treatment is the same. Removal of the spark plugs will allow access to the combustion chamber. By inserting an irrigation syringe fitted with a flexible plastic tube on the end, you can suck out the liquid that infiltrated the combustion chamber. Once all the fluid is removed, the chamber should be sprayed with a liberal coating of a water displacing lubricant such as WD40[citation needed], and allowed to sit until the remaining water has evaporated. Once the water or coolant has been removed, inspect the combustion chamber for rust. The best option would be to remove the head, but a borescope or small flashlight and mirror will also work. Light surface rust will be normal, but if you see any heavy corrosion, it should be gently removed, and vacuumed out of the chamber. After inspection, pour a tablespoon of assembly lube (such as Marvel Mystery Oil) or clean engine oil into each combustion chamber. Attach a socket to the crankshaft, and slowly rotate the engine through a few revolutions. (Make sure that you turn the engine in the proper direction, see a service manual for proper rotation direction.) If you hear any clanking, or harsh scraping, you should bring the engine to a competent mechanic. After verifying that the remaining systems are free of water (electrical, fuel delivery, air intake, distributor, etc.), re-install the spark plugs and wires, and attempt to start the engine.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock