My 1994 olds, delta 88 just stop running while I was driving.?

Question

I had the car towed home and the next day the car started up and was running good as usual. so I went to the store and when I tried to start the car up again it would't start. after waiting a while the car started up. I took the module off (while the battery was still connect) and had the module tested at auto zone. They said the module was good. after putting the module back on the car, I noticed when I turned the key forward the dash lights didn't come on, such as the check engine light, oil light ect. now the car won't even start up period. I check all the fuses and the seemed to be good. could it be that my crank censor went out.

Answer 1

Did you check both fuses? (engine compartment and under dash), before tackling a hard and expensive job like the crank sensor, check to see if you have spark, make sure the ignition coil is working, also check the distributor cap for corrosion and burnt up connections, I'm assuming that was the ignition module you had checked (which does go bad alot), so if thats good, thats not it, I would aslo hav a pressure test done on the fuel system, make sure your getting 40 PSI of fuel, if not, the fuel pump is bad, if all this doesnt work, go for the crank sensor.

Good Luck!

Answer 2

When you turn the key to the on position without the engine running the check engine, oil, and other check lights come on because the engine doesn't have oil pressure due to not running. When they do not come on indicates a power problem. Follow the battery cable from the battery to the starter solenoid, check the other wires to the starter to make sure there are no places where anything has rubbed through any wires and they are connected securely. Put in the key and watch your dash - can you turn back the key to accessory? Turn to lock, then off, then to on. Any lights? turn to start. If you had lights in the on position, do they go out? Check your starter switch that is on the steering collumn under the dash to see if it shows it had been hot, sunk back into the plastic, and lost contact.
Last resort: This could be a problem that is intermitent and you need to catch it it having the problem to track it down. It can be the crank sensor or the engine module in the distributor.

Answer 3

Kenny: Your battery probably needs replacing if its 5 or more years old, and you can verify that by driving in to an AutoZone or Advance Auto parts store or similar to have the battery and charging system tested. Until you get a known good battery and clean battery connections in the car, you can't diagnose any car electrical/ electronic problems. There has been a lot of ignition module and coil pack failures on your vehicle. If you still have problems once you get a new battery, mention whether the car won't crank at all, or that it cranks but won't start. The electronic ignition module can definitely be heat sensitive and intermittently fail and then recover so that it could be bad and yet pass the test at the auto store. Some test facilities even heat up the module while testing it to see if it fails under full operating temperature.

Answer 4

Sounds like ignition switch is bad or out of adjustment---that's why the dash lights don't come on. The switch is towards the botttom of the steering column--on top of the column and has two small screws at either end holding it on for adjustment. Get a repair manual like Chilton or Haynes at a local parts store or try Eautorepair.net for online access for a fee. Switch has a rod going into it from the ignition cylinder --where you put the key in---and to adjust it, you turn the key to the run position, loosen the two screws on the switch, don't remove them---you may have to drop the column down a little to access them---and slide the switch upwards or downwards slightly until the dash lights come on, then retighten the screws.

Answer 5

The car has a ghost, run away