Is it really that hard to start a salt water aquarium?

Question

I've always wanted one, but they are so high maintenance. Any tips?

Answer 1

I have to agree with tiki on this - I've got several of each type, and once you get past the inital set-up. I spend about as much time with saltwater as freshwater.

The best tip I can give is to read as much about saltwater tanks as you can. It's quite likely that the difference in opinon regarding the difficulty in going marine is the amount of research and preparation you do before you set up the tank - I spent two years reading materials before taking the plunge, and while I won't say I've never had any problems, I feel I had a good background in what to expect and some good resources to solve the problems as they came up.

Some things you should be aware of if you want to consider going with salt:

Saltwater fish are generally more aggressive and territorial (although there are some peaceful species you can keep in schools), plus they need very good water quality, so you can't keep as many fish in the tank - think "cichlid" personality if that helps).

You need to mix up the saltwater to the correct concentration for water changes before adding it to the tank (= a separate container for mixing).

And there's the price of the fish and extra equipment not used in freshwater (hydrometer, salt, protein skimmer is advised, but not absolutely required if you're planning to keep invertebrates - corals, shrimp, etc.). You may run into extra cost in lighting as well if you plant to keep ant photosynthetic corals, anemones, or clams.

Live rock gives the tank a more natural appearance and does a lot toward biological filtration. You can also get a lot of cool organisms as "hitchikers". I've has seastars, corals, clams, feather dusters, snails, shrimp, sponges, sea urchins, and others. Not all fish are reef safe however, and some fish will eat these organisms.

I like to recommend that when someone is starting out, that they research the fish they are interested in first - whether its something you see at the store, or on a website. Find out what the adult size will be, what tank size is recommended, and what fish are compatible with each other, and any other organisms you want in the tank. Once you have a wish list of fish, start planning your tank around them, although it's not uncommon to find you want more fish than can be accommodated in the space your have available. Then you have to start making deletions and substitutions to your list. But at least you're do the research while you're planning, not haphazardly throwing fish together that may not be compatible.

And start with a decently sized tank - a 29 or 30 gallon is the smallest I'd suggest, just because the water volume will keep the temperature, salinity, and water chemistry from fluctuating too much, plus you can keep a variety of fish. People who start too small have nowhere to expand (other than buying another tank) when they catch the "bug".

A good place to begin is with a good reference book. I recommend either The New Marine Aquarium by Michael S. Paletta. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-52-1 or The Conscientious Marine Aquarist – Robert M. Fenner. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-02-5. These will give you options for how you might want to go about equiping your tank so you get a functioning system that won't break the bank.

A good website to start at is this one - http://www.apapets.com/MarineEcosystem/whatto.htm - it give a lot of practical things to consider when planning your first tank.

Here are some others with good basics:
http://www.peteducation.com/index.cfm?cls=16
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/

Answer 2

if you do all your research and learn and know what your doing and you are commited then you will be fine it is a lot of work but so is a freshwater aquarium its not really hard it just takes time until it gets established then other than feeding and regular water changes the amount of work goes down a lot email me if you have any other questions also the same with freshwater start of with a larger tank and hardy fish its easy to maintain water conditions in a bigger tank then a smaller and you have more options with what you can do with it. what size tank where you thinking of

Answer 3

No, not hard. And not really more high maintenance, a few extra steps here and there. I would suggest doing research before hand, then figure out what kind of SW tank you want, fish only, reef only, or both. Then just take it from there. Knowing before hand everything that's involved, and what to do makes it a lot easier and cheaper. Same goes for FW tanks.

Answer 4

it's tough i have had mine since christmas, add fish slowly...let the tank set with just live sand and live rock for a few months (we waited 3 months 6 was recomended but 3 did ok) but i found we added too many fish too fast and it through our level out of wack and we lost half of our fish! so be careful and listen to all the advice you get you will love it! i do! and keep asking questions becuase that's the best way to learn. book are good, but ou can't ask them questions and get a personalized answer back...there are so many variables a local enusiast is the best!

Answer 5

if you are equating hard with high maitenance yes it is hard. mostly you have lots of equipment -- the maitenance is still less than most pets -- you can't have to regualarly change bedding like with caged pets or walk them around the block like dogs.

try a brackish tank with monos, scats, and archers. its a lot less maitenance and not as common as freshwater.

Answer 6

yes

Answer 7

It depends,if you are really dedicated and you really want it it wouldn't be that hard.I don't know why LFS are discouraging customers to start a marine tank.Why can people can do it?IT's because of dedication.I will agree that you need a lot of time to set aside,but if you have a passion,then it wouldn't be hard for you.If you also plan your tank carefully,then you will be rewarded with a piece of sea in your very own house-and that is priceless.Read this booklet that i have written myself.

THE
REEF AQUARIUM


Volume I
May31,2007


Table of Contents

1.INTRODUCTION

I. Brief history of saltwater aquariums

II. Choosing the right set-up

III. Size does matter

IV. Source of saltwater

V. Equipments

VI. Stocking it up

VII. Health

VIII. Additives

IX. Maintenance

X. Be updated

XI. Practical Tips

*cover photo-Author’s fishes


Introduction

I started the marine aquarium hobby during my high-school days. Nevertheless, I already was in the aquarium hobby during elementary, albeit freshwater ones. Due to my own experience, I believe that those people with a background on freshwater aquariums are at a distinct advantage over those who have no background at all. As a freshwater aquarist, one becomes familiar with the usual vagaries, such as heating, filtering, and feeding the fish.

My first brash with this interesting hobby came in the form of a very basic set-up, consisting of the primitive under-gravel filter and a shallow sand-bed. Presently, however, this kind of set-up is being opposed by most marine aquarists, because use of under-gravel filters, causes detritus accumulation, which will cause deterioration of water quality later on . This particular tank did last, however, for about three months, and during those months, did occurred on me a feeling of success which, unfortunately ended by the successive demise of my fishes. Through this, I had almost decided to end this hobby, were it not for some people who encouraged me to start it all over again properly. I heeded their advice and started to set-up a smaller tank with better equipments, and improved techniques. A few months have passed and this also proved to be an unfortunate failure, and this was also followed by several tanks that succeeded this one, that also suffered this dreadful fate– until I joined a Marine Aquarium Forum. The helpful people there taught me all the stuff necessary for maintaining a reef aquarium. Now, equipped with my fellow aquarists’ words of wisdom, I started a 22g soft-coral dominated tank where the corals thrive and reproduce and the fishes living side-by-side in a somewhat more stable system. Also another source of my aquarium knowledge is the books I read. Given the knowledge stored therein, it helped me in starting a new marine tank.

In sum, it is with great delight that I write this guide to Reef Aquariums to provide the beginning aquarist gears to steer his aquarium experience into its’ highest potential. I sincerely hope that the information contained herein be an excellent guide for you to the exciting world of Reef Aquariums, just as the Online Forum and books have done their respective parts for me, and enjoy the exciting and wonderful underwater rainforest that God have provided for us to enjoy and take care of.

Brief History of Saltwater Aquariums:

The aquarium was invented many centuries ago, long before the basic technologies were invented. So during that time, aquariums were one of the main stays of entertainment inside the elite’s house. It must be remembered that only those people belonging to the higher class can afford an aquarium, because during that time its’ most important part is the frame, which is made of fine wood, or expensive metal. Thanks to technology, almost everyone today can afford an aquarium because it is very affordable, mass produced, and available in almost any size, to suit one’s personal preference, needs, and budget.

The aquarium hobby greatly advanced during the 1950's, mainly due to the wide spread of information and invention of new techniques and efficient equipments and technology, such as the salt mix.


CHOOSING THE RIGHT SET-UP

FISH-ONLY TANK (FO)


The easiest and cheapest to set-up of all types of aquariums is the Fish-Only (FO) Tank, which is much easier to start up with for beginners in the aquarium hobby.

A Fish-Only Tank is an aquarium basically comprising of marine fishes, which can tolerate a not-so-perfect water condition, ornamental rocks , and sand. It does not include any live coral and invertebrates, which is for the more advanced aquarists.

FISH-ONLY TANK WITH LIVE ROCKS (FOWLR)

Basically similar to the Fish-Only Tank, except for the fact that this set-up contains live rock, defined as a rock containing numerous hitchhikers such as planktons, sponges, macroalgae, shrimp, crabs and even small corals, which made it live.

One precaution that the beginner needs to remember is that the live rock needs first to be “cured” before application into the aquarium and that the current present in the aquarium should be widespread in order to avoid the presence of a “dead spot”, which is a part of the tank which receives minimal flow due to wrong placement of rocks or insufficient water flow, thus promoting the accumulation of detritus and hazardous organic chemicals, such as ammonia, which is highly toxic to fishes as well as to invertebrates.

INVERTEBRATE TANK

This is a set-up that is completely dedicated to invertebrates, which is far more demanding, in terms of water quality and feeding than most fishes. This set-up might even require a chiller, depending on the invertebrate that you choose to take care of. Most invertebrates are specialized feeders, which makes them harder to feed. Invertebrates also are hard to acclimatize to new environments, and many cannot adjust at all, and would just whither away.

REEF TANK

Have you ever been diving or snorkeling in a coral reef?

As seen in our many postcards, the coral reef is vibrant in such a way that the entire place is brilliantly colored and every fish and coral coexists in perfect chemistry. This is also true of the Reef Tank, but in a much smaller scale.

Top: Author’s 22g tank

A well-maintained and carefully planned Reef Tank will be very rewarding, as it will promote relaxation and it serves as a window for you to peak into the world’s most beautiful place-the reef.





SIZE DOES MATTER

In the selection of a tank size, the basic premise is that a larger tank is way better than smaller ones. However, the site of the aquarium and your own budget must also be considered in the setting up of a tank.

There are four main advantages of big aquarium tanks, and these are:
1. A more stable system, as you can place more live rocks and filters.
2. A more unlikely thing for the water parameters to fluctuate.
3. A provision for more aesthetic purposes, and
4. Decline of water quality is gradual compared to smaller tanks.

Acrylic or Glass

Advantages and Disadvantages between the Acrylic Tank and Glass Tank
Glass Acrylic
Budget High Budget Low Budget
Clarity of View Less Clear More Clear
Probability of scratch Low Chance High Chance
Probability of breakage High Chance Low Chance
Aesthetics Less Aesthetic Highly Aesthetic


Tank Location

A location that is far from openings, such as doors and windows, is recommended in order to reduce risk of breakage and other misdemeanors. It is also favorable for tanks to be placed near electrical sockets.

Having such, a strong aquarium stand is also needed to prevent any untoward accident.

Aquariums are most conveniently placed in the first floor of a house, or in the lobby or mezzanine of palatial houses where it can be appreciated most. Putting the aquarium in the garage is not promoted, as it will result to the increased levels of carbon in the aquarium, which is detrimental to the health of the fishes.

SOURCE OF SALTWATER

Salt Mixes

Salt Mixes are readily available from pet stores and remain will remain effective for several months.

There are wide varieties of salt mixes available in the market, so purchasing natural seawater is not required. One important feature of the salt mix is its’ purity from various waterborne diseases. However, salt mixes also do not include planktons which are beneficial to the corals, fishes, and other creatures.

Natural sea water

Natural sea water is directly obtained from the ocean, and is usually either done by the pet store owner or by the aquarist himself, granted that he lives near the sea.

Aquarists who opt to use natural sea water risk exposing their aquarium creatures to parasites and bacteria, though more sophisticated aquarium technology, such as ultraviolet (UV) filtration can be used to lower the risk by killing parasites and bacterias, but it will also remove beneficial planktons.









EQUIPMENTS

One important aspect involved in beginning aquarists is the purchasing of equipments. In this section, we will discuss several equipments which have been proven beneficial for the aquarium and the life therein.

LIGHT

There are many kinds of lighting for marine aquariums, such as Fluorescent bulbs, power compacts, T5 High output lamps, metal halides, and the more recent LED lighting systems.

Fluorescent bulb

Fluorescent bulbs are the same bulbs we use for houses, and are one of the most basic type of lighting fixture in tanks. The most important aspect of fluorescent lighting is its’ color spectrum. Lights technically have a yellowish hue in the lower spectrum, which continues on a bluish hue in the higher spectrum. The most beneficial spectrum for corals is 6500k, which lies in the yellow part of the color spectrum.

Several kinds of fluorescent lightings include T10, T8, T6, T5, and T4. In this system of numbering, the lower the number, the thinner the bulb is. Nevertheless, the more efficient and powerful fluorescent bulbs available nowadays are those that are called “compact fluorescent bulbs”, which are able to provide enough light for tanks that house corals that are tolerant of low lighting. However, the most powerful fluorescent bulb is the T5HO which used for hard corals that require intense lights, as well as for soft corals.




Metal Halides

The metal halide is a very intense light that can supply almost any photosynthetic animal with the required amount of light. Another advantage of the metal halide is that its light can penetrate deeper than the lights that are mentioned a while ago, making it most suitable for tall tanks. This light is also used in many baseball stadiums, basketball courts, and even concerts. The few disadvantages of metal halides are: High operating cost, produces a lot of heat, and costly bulbs and fixture.


LED

The latest lights on the market. If you ever had a LED flashlight, then you already have an idea on how powerful these small bulbs are. These bulbs also doesn't emit as much heat as other lights do. Many marine aquarists are upgrading to LED lights, because of its advantages over the other available lights.



PROTEIN SKIMMERS

Protein skimmers are one of the most effective filters in the marine aquarium hobby. Its job is to skim excess protein and other excess nutrients that may cause algae blooms, which then leads to a cleaner and a healthier tank. If you are shopping for a skimmer, buy the best that you can afford, because a good skimmer is one of the keys to a successful reef tank.

Kind of skimmers

Air-driven skimmers

Air-driven skimmers are the first skimmers to be invented. These skimmers are powered by an airpump, making it too weak for big marine aquariums, but it can be used in nano tanks, because nano tanks don't much wastes as big tanks do. It uses wooden air diffuser that needs to be change frequently, which is very tiresome and time-consuming.

Turbo skimmer

These skimmers are powered by a powerhead, and has a venturi, which gets air outside the aquarium, and uses it to form bubbles. These skimmers are much more better than the air-driven skimmers

Other skimmers

There are tons of other skimmers that are not yet mentioned and some even much more effective than the ones that were said, but also much more costly.




Subtank (sump)

Subtanks are a tank that is connected to the main tank, whose main purpose is to filter the main tank.

The sump contains a refugium, which keeps the copepods(small critters that reproduce in the aquarium),and providing them a place where they can reproduce freely, without the threat of a predator, because if the copepods are in the maintank, they will be eaten by the fishes and their population will rapidly decline, and eventually, they will all be gone, and wouldn't have a chance to increase. The purpose of the refugium is to keep their population steady, and release them to the main tank slowly as they reproduce, so the inhabitants of the tank will have a constant supply of live copepods.

Another purpose of the sump is to provide space for all the necessary equipments, and to keep it there , because it wouldn't look good if all the equipments are in the main tank.


HEATERS

Heaters are necessary for some countries. Almost all heaters performs well. Just don't forget to put heater guards, so that the fishes will be safe.






STOCKING IT UP

Live rocks

When choosing live rocks, pick the one that has the most holes, because it provides more space for bacteria to grow. Also choose the most colored rock, as it has more critters in it and is more beautiful. If you want to create a nice rockscape, choose flat rocks.

Choosing fishes

Damsels are the best starter fishes, but keep in mind that when you they become settled,they are extremely territorial, and would try to kill any tankmate.

When looking for fishes, take note of the following signs of a fish that you shouldn't buy:
1. Cloudy eyes
2. Not swimming actively
3. Hyperventilation
4. Extremely thin bodies
5. Open wounds

Signs of a good specimen:
1. Active swimmer
2. Normal breathing
3. No wounds

Tank size

This is also an important thing to consider because if your tank is not suitable for the fish, in terms of tank size or set-up. You’ll end up having the fish adopted.


Set-up

Do not buy butterflyfishes if you have a reef tank, because it will eat your corals as it does in nature.

Compatibility

Also check the compatibility of the fishes that you intend to keep, because even if they are all healthy, but they always bite each other, it is no use. Fighting causes great stress to the fish, making them more susceptible to diseases, and may even lead to death.


Choosing Corals

Corals should also be compatible to each other. I will advice you to decide whether you will keep hard/stony corals ,or soft corals, because they don't do well when mixed, and you will need to put carbon to absorb any chemicals that they excrete.

Signs of a healthy coral:

1. No visible tissue necrosis
2. No broken parts
3. Not bleached
4. Fully opened

In choosing live corals consider your tank's size, and set-up also. Some corals have long sweeper tentacles that can reach great distances, so always keep that in mind.


HEALTH

Some of the most common fish disease remedy:

1.Hyposalinity
How: Lower the salinity up to 1.010 ppm
Why: To kill any marine fish parasite. They will die because they are not used to low salinity levels.


2.Copper
How: dose it into the tank as prescribed
Why: To kill external parasites

3.Mixing garlic extract to fishfood
How: get a garlic, then chop it finely, then put all of them in a clean cloth then squeeze it, and put the extracted juice in an empty container, then mix it with some fishfood.
Why: to boost immune system



ADDITIVES

Calcium

Calcium is required by hard corals, because their skeleton is entirely made of calcium carbonate. This is also required by clams, as their shells are made from calcium also.

Iodine

This is beneficial for soft corals, and is also beneficial to hard corals, because this element is also present in the ocean.

Other elements

Magnesium, strontium, and many more are also required in certain amounts, because it is also part of the chemistry of natural seawater. Therefore, it is also required by the corals, and fishes.





MAINTENANCE

This is the hardest part of it all.Well, at least for the all aquarists that I've asked.

Daily maintenance:

1. Feed fishes
2. Top-off(put freshwater)
3. Check temperature

Weekly maintenance

1. Water change
2. Check salinity
3. Test water

Monthly maintenace

1. Change carbon(if there is any)
2. Clean filters

Yearly maintenance

1. Change light bulbs



BE UPDATED!

Being updated is extremely important in the rapidly developing hobby of Marine Aquarium. We have lots of sources of new information widely available in our fingertips. A few examples of these are:

1. ReefCentral.com: an international online reef aquarium club that has members all around the globe.
2. ReefPhilippines.com: a Philippines-based online reef aquarium club operated by Filipino reefers.
3. ReefTank.com: a marine aquarium online community that is nice as well.
4. NanoReef.com: an international online reef aquarium club for people, who are interested in nano tanks.
5.Reefkeeping-an online magazine of the Reef central.





Practical TIPS

Cycling

After setting up your tank, you don’t run to the pet store and fill the tank with fishes. Before stocking the aquarium, one must wait for at least 4 weeks(or until ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels go down to 0).But the longer the cycle, the more stable the system. So, prolonged cycling will help establish a more stable tank.



Stocking Rules (after cycling)

1. 1 fish per week
2. 1 to 2 corals per week
3. 1” of fish per 5 gallons of tank volume


COMMON AQUARIUM TERMS AND THEIR MEANING

BTA-bubble tip anemone

LTA-long tip anemone

LPS-long polyp stony (coral)

SPS-short polyp stony (coral)

PBT-powder blue tang

HT-Hawaiian tang

YT-yellow tang

YMG-yellow watchman goby

Pods-copepods

Fuge-refugium

Sump-subtank

UGF-under-gravel filter

OHF-Overhead filter

HOB-Hang-on back filters

CCS-counter-current skimmer

MH-metal halide

PC-power compact

Softies-Soft corals

HO-high-output

NO-normal-output

VHO-very-high-output

Coral frags-Small coral that was fragmented from a larger colony







SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1. Always wear gloves
2. Never put any metal objects beside the tank
3. Always keep your hands clean
4. Avoid venomous fishes(e.g. lionfish)









5 BASIC AQUARIUM RULES

1. Never tap the aquarium’s glass
2. Do not overfeed
3. Hands-off the aquarium as much as possible
4. Do not use aerosol sprays around the area
5. Do not overstock



Easy-to-keep fishes

1. Tangs
2. Gobies
3. Damsels
4. Dottybacks
5. Pygmy angels
6. Cardinals
7. Wrasses









Conversion Chart:

Volume:
1 milliliter(ml)-1 cubic centimeter(cc)
1 liter- 1000ml, 1.06 quarts, 2.1 pints
1 teaspoon-5ml
1 tablespoon-3 teaspoons, 15 ml
1 gallon-128 fluid ounces,8 pints, 4 quarts, 3.8 quarts, 231 cubic inches



Top photo: Red sea fan in author’s tank