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Leaves can drop from several reasons; lack of water, disease or insects feeding on roots, excess water if the plant is growing in a container, slow draining clay heavy soil or inadequate light. If you suspect any of these conditions, remedy the situation. For example, water more deeply, open the drainage hole in the container to improve drainage or treat for insect pests.

There are several diseases which cause leaf drop including black spot, apple scab and cherry leaf spot, all fungus diseases. Fungal disease can be treated by raking up the fallen leaves to prevent further spread and using micronized sulfur (Rose Dust) as a weekly spray treatment alternately with Cornel spray, milk, and a fish kelp foliar feed.

The most common is black spot (BS), the leaves show small ragged edged discolorations, they turn yellow, and finally drop. This starts on the lowest leaves and moves up the plant. If the BS has defoliated the shrubs it is well established. Remove all fallen leaves and put fresh mulch under the plant. This removes the spores that can recontaminate the plant by splashing up onto the leaves. I would dust all fungus prone areas with cornmeal, a natural fungicide. Researchers at Texas A&M research showed that cornmeal contained beneficial organisms that were at least as effective as common chemical fungicides. Somehow cornmeal is able to attract a member of the Trichoderma fungus family, which is a good fungus that kills off disease causing fungi in a matter of weeks. Work 2 pounds of cornmeal into the soil for every 100 square feet. Water well to activate the fungus killing properties. There is a cheap, nonfood grade available at garden centers.

Mites are another cause. They are sucking insects the can eventually defoliate a shrub. The mites themselves need a magnifying glass to be seen but they form silvery webs under the leaves they are on. To control, spray dormant oil or lime-sulfur on dormant plants in the winter. During the growing season, use insecticidal soap with pyrethrin for control or whole neem oil this is also an organic insectide, miticide and fungicide.

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There are I - Contact Fungicides, 2- Penetrant & Locally Systemic Fungicides, and 3 - plant wide 1 Systemic Fungicide.
I- Contact is a “broad spectrum multi-site surface protectant” They remain on the leaf surface, acting as an exterior shield to fungi. This is the most common method of controlling BS, before it becomes a problem.
Potassium bicarbonate; Amicarb 100, Kaligreen [Keep off soil]
Copper fungicide; May cause soil damage with long term use. Soap-Shield combines copper with a naturally-occurring fatty acid. If sprayed heavily Soap-Shield leaves a blue coating on leaf surfaces. One should not use an oil-based fungicide, such as Remedy or Cornell, within at least two weeks of using sulfur, and vice versa. This includes the sulfur dust.

Fish emulsion/seaweed (kelp) — Many rosarians achieved the best results by applying these mixtures on a regular basis. Will help build good soil also.
Milk 1:7 water Dried milk works as well as fresh. Use weekly in spray rotation.
Whole neem oil this is also an insectide, miticide.
Dithane; Dithane-Ultra, Mancozeb, Mancozin, Manzate 200
(Class IV toxicity so fairly safe.)

Cornell Baking soda/horticultural oil — Tests performed by Cornell and Auburn universities in the U.S. confirm this as my favorite powdery mildew black spot control. Mixed at a rate of 1 tablespoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and 2 tablespoon horticultural oil [Sunspray] per gallon of water, this material is sprayed on foliage and stems weekly when the disease first appears, or buy Remedy, by Bonide, a premixed version.

Bordeaux Mixture; A mixture of copper and lime, Bordeaux Mix should be combined with Saf-T-Side to make a very effective dormant spray. For northern gardeners, this spray is best used in fall, to prevent spores and insects from overwintering, to speed dormancy in preparation for cold weather, and to defoliate late fall plants. Rate: 1/2 cup per gallon along with 4 tablespoons per gallon of Saf-T-Side.
Premix for sale is Kocide.
Vinegar Fungicide
Mix 3 tablespoons of natural apple cider vinegar in one gallon of water. Spray during the cool part of the day for black spot on roses and other fungal diseases. Adding molasses at 1 tablespoon per gallon will again help.


If blackspot is already active in your garden, a preventative is going to do little good. You need a systemic. Be sure to spray the top and bottom side of the leaves and the soil in the bed. This will kill all the active spores and give you a fresh start. Water plants well before applying any fungicide.
Class 2- Penetrant -Locally Systemic Fungicides. These are absorbed but not translocated far from the site of uptake. They serve to prevent the development of disease at (and in a small zone surrounding) the site of uptake. They either enter the the plants xylem stream so is carried out to the leaves.
Benomyl ; Benex, Benlate(but is toxic to earthworms)
Thiophanate-methyl; Cleary’s 3336
There are others that also enter the phloem so go to the roots.
Propiconazole; Banner Maxx
Fenarimol; Rubigan
Myclobutanil; Eagle, Immunox

There are others that also enter the phloem so go to the roots.
Propiconazole; Banner Maxx
Fenarimol; Rubigan
Myclobutanil; Immunox [Class IV toxicity]
Last are the Mesostemic fungicides. They have a high affinity for the waxy layers of the plant surface. It also penetrates the plant surface but does not significantly move through the plant's vascular system.
Strobilurins, like Compass

Class 3 fully systemic is Fosetyl-Al (Aliette) this is a class I so is very toxic. It is the only completely systemic fungicide available.

2007-06-03 10:47:32 · answer #1 · answered by gardengallivant 7 · 1 1

I am unsure of what you're asking, so I'll answer what I believe to be both questions: 1) I agree that Selig is considering lifting the permanently ineligible status of Pete Rose. 2) I disagree that Pete Rose should be allowed to return to baseball. Rose not only bet on baseball, he made a mockery of the game. For everything that people say about the Black Sox scandal and Joe Jackson's involvement, Jackson's only gripe came about when he tried to sue Comiskey for wages due in the sum of $17k and change. Rose, by contrast, denied betting on baseball for a decade, then wrote a book which made MLB look like a total sham. He only "admitted" to gambling under the pressure of realization that he wasn't getting into the Hall of Fame. For a man who supposedly loved the game and played it right, he sure didn't respect the game one iota once he was off the field. Honestly, I hope that Ichiro Suzuki is able play at his miraculous level well into his mid-40s. At the moment, even starting his MLB career very late, he probably has the best chance at surpassing 4000 hits, and if he is able to become the new "hit king," "Charlie Hustle" will fall to the wayside.

2016-03-13 04:58:10 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Sound s like blossom drop from too much nitrogen, a little 8-8-8 once a month is plenty

2007-06-03 09:28:16 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

you need to give them a good feed of rose food or tomato food i also hoe in manure with you can get from any good garden centre . i have lots of roses some over 6o years old with i inherited from my late father . good luck hope this helps.

2007-06-03 09:42:55 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Roses need a lot of water, that's my first thought - have they been underwatered?

Are the leaves spotty (diseased), pale (underfertilized), or brown and shrivelled (dry)?

2007-06-03 09:28:27 · answer #5 · answered by jarm 4 · 1 0

it's most likely bugs! spray it down with some bug-b-gone then add some bayeradvanced rose and flower all in one care to top it off! it'll recover nicely!

2007-06-03 09:29:18 · answer #6 · answered by Robert 4 · 0 2

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