Can someone please help us with a continuously blocking toilet?

Question

We have 2 toilets running off 1 line into a septic tank. The indoor toilet continuously gets blocked. We have taken the loo off and checked the S bend, the down pipe and the main line and cannot find a blockage. The water still doesnt flush through when toilet is operated it just builds up and gradually siphons over time. We do not have a vent pipe for the indoor toilet only the outdoor. Could that create a problem? The outdoor toilet only backs up occasionally. Could we please only have serious answers as we are 100 klms from the nearest town and have repeatedly asked plumbers to come out to inspect but nobody is interested because of the distance. Thanks and we appreciate any advice given.

Answer 1

If the drain system has a long distance between the two drops, then yes, each should have its own vent. If they are relatively close together, it should not create that much difference, as they will both use the same vent stack.

First question I would ask, is what does the drain line look like? Is dipping, or rising at any point(s) along the way to the septic system? The drain system needs to have a consistent fall all along it. You do NOT want it to dip low at any point, neither do you want it running "uphill". The grade of fall needs to be consistent, from the stack farthest from the septic (in lineal drain feet/meters, not location) to the septic. I point out in "lineal" measurement, because it is not too unusual to find one bathroom drain system run to another, before running to the septic system, which is often on the other side of the "inside" bathroom. Manufactured homes are often built this way. The "inside" bathroom will be run to a drop at the end of the home... then... another line is run from that point, to the septic system... which could be located at the opposite end of the home, hehehe.

Ive seen homes with drain lines that dipped between the bathrooms, and the one would clog up, while the other drained just fine.

If your line has a dip, simply support the section that has dropped. You can do this with straps stapled to the bottom of the floor joists (provided you have a basement or crawl space), or even blocking the line up with pavers, bricks, etc. I prefer to attach to the bottom of the floor joists myself, less concern about frost heave moving a pipe that way.

Another concern that occasionally happens with new homes, is that the line can become blocked due to debris.. i.e sawdust, or some other construction trash, that made its way into the drain system, during construction.

One other situation, fortunately pretty rare, hehehe... would be if someone had not completely removed a cap, when the toilet was installed. You said you removed the toilet in question... so, if the cap had not been punched out completely, you would have seen it. I doubt that's the problem here.

Ok, one more just came to mind.... the bends in the line -- if you have a "hard" 90 degree bend in the line, it will restrict the flow.... use a "soft" 90 whenever possible. A "soft" 90 degree coupling is made so that the actual curve in the joint is longer. The "soft" 90 degree elbow is actually a larger piece than the "hard" 90 degree elbow joint. Some building codes mandate the use of the "soft", or larger joint. I recommend them just as good practice, whether they are required or not.

My best guess based on the info you've provided, is that your lines do not fall consistently. While checking the fall of the drain line, look at those elbows too, and see which you have under there.

I will add... once drain lines have been corrected for the proper fall... they need to be cleaned out, to remove any previous buildup.

Good Luck

Answer 2

There is one person in your house who uses too much toilet paper :)

Just kidding, but seriously you could have an issue with something caught inside the toilet under the porcelin.

The vent pipe could be an issue, but if that was the case you would get a big air bubble when you flush it.

cheapest solution might be to either replace the toilet or swap it with the one that is working and by process of elimation see if the problem is the toilet or pipes going to the toilet.

Answer 3

Yes the indoor toilet should have a vent pipe as well.

It`s kinda like punching only one hole in a big juice can.
The juice still comes out but it kinda "blops" out, if you know what I mean.
Punch another hole opposite the first and it runs smooth and much faster.

RT

Answer 4

you need a vent!!!
minumum 2" vent
toilet should also be in 3" line from a 4" flanged opening ( that is necked down to 3" )

Answer 5

Try pouring baking soda and vinegar in the toilet. I've learned from experience.