is shrimp good for a bearded dragon ?

Question

just wondering because i got some frozen shrimp im wondering if i boil then and feed to my dragon is is unhealthy or healthy

Answer 1

Great website for you too view about the eating habits of beardies www.peteducation.com..... I swear by this site... alot of great information.

Beardies can not digest shrimp.... if you are wanting to give them a treat try a pinky..... they will love you forever....

Answer 2

Beardies don't generally eat meat--they are insectivorous/herbivorous, which means they eat bugs (crickets, mealworms, etc in captivity) and vegetables (greens in captivity). I wouldn't advise feeding him shrimp because shrimp would never be a natural part of his diet. That is, he wouldn't be eating shrimp in the wild, because he'd live in an inland desert, not in the ocean. You can, however, give bearded dragons live or frozen/thawed (but never in the microwave!) pinkies (newborn mice) as a treat.

Answer 3

Save the shrimp for your significant other and don't change the dragon's diet if it's doing well on what you feed it otherwise.

Answer 4

Bearded dragons come from australia so think what would they eat in the outback.
Not shrimp!!!!!
I would'nt give it.

Answer 5

hell yea son!

Answer 6

Shrimp, Algae. Shrimp, Aqua. Shrimp, Red. Shrimp, Flower. Shrimp, Ghost. Shrimp, Rudolph ... However, bearded dragons also eat plant material – greens and fruits- so yes its okay but im ganna give you a little more info on them.Bearded dragons are characterized by a wide head with a “beard”, a large fold of skin which they can display at will. Inland Bearded dragons are diurnal (active in the daytime), oviparous (egg layers), omnivorous, agamid lizards native to central Australia.

As omnivores, they eat both plant foods and animal source foods. For the animal source, insects can be used if you have access to a wide variety. Do not rely on just crickets and mealworms. Such a diet is too “narrow”! See “Encyclopedia of Live Foods” and “Feeding Insect Eating Lizards from TFH Publications, and “Eat This Bug”, by Lynn Davis, Hillview Press 650-364-0231. The best animal source is “Reptile Fare” from from Reliable Protein products (760-321-7533 or [e-mail]).

For the plant source, a smorgasbord of mixed vegetables and fruits will serve well. Do not allow them to pick their favorites or they will unbalance the diet quickly. I recommend that you make up a variation of “Carrie’s Purple Surprise” which is 80% “Reptile Fare” and the rest a WIDE assortment of fruits, vegetables and dark leafy produce. It is blended and frozen in ice cube trays for feeding on demand. They cannot pick their favorites that way and so the diet is consistent.

Another diet that seems to be OK initially is Fluker Farms food. Follow the directions on the package. 75% of the diet can be dark leafy produce.(5) Do let me know of your results with the Fluker farms diets so we can share it with others.


Bearded Dragons are characterized by large numbers of internal parasites. Coccidia, Oxyurids, Trichomonad flagellates, Tapeworms, Pentastomids and Microsporidia to name the major types. They must be tested multiple times to raise the success rate of the diagnosis.

Young beardies seem to come to grief when on sand or similar substrates. The consume it and become impacted. Indeed, there is a Calcium rich product on the market which may be even worse. I recommend no gravel or sand with grains smaller than the smallest animals head. Consider “Astroturf” or similar artificial grass products.

In addition, sanitation must be practiced to near extreme levels to succeed in eliminating some or all of the parasites during and after treatment plans have been instituted. New additions to a collection must be isolated, checked multiple times and subjected to the same sanitation standards or failure is likely. Some means of separating the pets from their feces must be found, such as plastic grates, fall through wire bottoms etc. etc. These are less than ideal for the well being of the Dragons feet, so care must be exercised in their use. They need space such as LARGE aquariums, not the little 5 gallon ones so often seen. They do well with “furniture” to climb on and hide in.

80-95 degrees is the best temperature range to provide. A warm basking area can be set up high in the cage, warmed by lamps. I recommend that they be exposed to 16 hours of daylight a day (see photoperiod in pets). They are used to cooling at night.



References:
(1) Ackerman, DVM et al “The Biology, Husbandry and Health Care of Reptiles”, TFH 1998 pogona barbata
(2) Klingenburg, Roger A., DVM in Exotic DVM
(3) Stahl, Scott DVM in NAVC 1999
(4) “The Completely Illustrated Atlas of reptiles and Amphibians for the terrarium”, Obst et al TFH, 1984 p 48
(5) Dr. Mark Mitchell May 2002

Eternal Summer


Translate that to mean "Long, warm days with plenty of good food." The reason for our emphasis on ETERNAL SUMMER is complicated, and I will elaborate.

Many cold blooded animals become inactive during part of their yearly cycle in the wild. The condition is not true hibernation and is better referred to as "torpid" or "dormant". This change is forced upon the animals by changes in light cycles, environmental temperature, and changes in the food supply. Cold blooded animals seem to need to go through specific and complex changes leading up to the inactive period, and even then not all of them survive to enjoy the next summer.

The temperatures at which these cold-blooded animals spend the inactive, or torpid, period (a.k.a. "Winter") vary with the species, and are often surprisingly cool. In addition, there is a range of temperatures between the active and torpid ranges which seems to hold great dangers for them. If allowed to spend time in this "no man's land" range of in between temperatures, they often suffer irreversible, degenerative diseases. Many animals suffering from such injuries don't show the symptoms until months after the event.

Complex steps are needed to properly prepare most cold-blooded pets for a successful inactive period. Food must change, light cycles must change, and temperature must change in very specific ways in order to allow survival until the following spring. Unless all is perfect, just as Nature intended, food may decay in the digestive system, and other severe degenerative changes may take place.
WHY BOTHER!

Nearly all of these dangers are avoidable with an "Eternal Summer." Long, warm days with plenty of good food. All that is needed is to simply apply the "ideal" temperature ranges, the perfectly controlled light cycles, and a never ending, well-balanced "free lunch."

"Easy for you to say, Doc..."

Often, sixteen hours of full spectrum "Daylight" such as the light supplied with a "Vitalite"(c) or other brand fixture, (see “Photoperiod in Pets” and enough heat added to bring the animal up to its natural temperature will do the trick. Some animals' natural temperatures are easy to determine such as desert dwellers which like 80, 90 or sometimes even 100 degrees. Temperate species like box turtles may do just fine in the 70's. Your pet's ideal temperature may take a bit of "research" to determine. Place
AT LEAST 2 thermometers in the cage and move one to the warmest spot (this may take a bit of adjusting over time) and one to the coolest spot. Record the temperatures in a diary along with appetite, activity etc.

If you have difficulty accomplishing this after your pet's annual health check, call the clinic for further guidance. If your tortoise, box turtle, lizard, or other cold blooded pet eats and is active each day, s/he is in "Eternal Summer." You control the light, temperature, and food supply so that he is not allowed to become torpid, but is encouraged to remain active, bright, hungry, and eating! Once established, you can all enjoy "Eternal Summer" for a long time to come.


Heat Sources For Pet Cages


The light source should be provided first. It may provide enough heat for the pet’s needs. Be sure and place 2 thermometers in the cage. Move them around until one is in the warmest place and one in the coolest place. Keep a diary of the temperature readings, daily at first then weekly when the environment has stabilized at a temperature (and light cycle) which keep the pet bright and active. (see “Photoperiod in Pets”)

Brooder reflector with red bulbs are a good way to warm terrariums, bird cages etc. Red colored bulbs seem to work well without preventing normal sleep cycles in pets. Small red bulbs such as 25, 40, 60 and 100 watts are best. If you cannot find such bulbs, we try to stock those sizes from Phillips for your needs.

Heat pads can be used, but they are designed for temporary use and will not last long in or under a pet cage. They are too hot for direct contact with the pet, so keep a towel or something over the surface to prevent burns. They are designed for short term, intermittent use and can “burn out” their thermostats and overheat and cause severe burns, so use caution.

Ceramic heaters are available from the pet shops and some people find them a good choice.

All of the heaters have electric cords which must be protected from being damaged. The pet might chew them if they are not protected.

Also, be careful of flammable objects near heat devices. We know of at least two homes that were burned down as a result of pet heaters. It is hard on the families and tragic for the pets.

Heat rocks are popular, but you need to speak to the supplier about safety. We do not use them in the clinic and we have heard tales of them overheating.

Be sure all electrical devices have UL stamps and are designed to handle the wattage of the bulb you are planning to use.

Photoperiod In Pets
Many pets (and some people) can be adversely affected by the short period of daylight in Northwest winters. Dormancy can be stimulated by reduced temperature, short days and other factors which we don't always understand. A good way to prevent dormancy and its dangers is to fool the pet's internal timekeeper into believing that it is eternally summer. The eye and brain seem to respond best to a type of light described as a color temperature of 5,000 degrees Kelvin, or "daylight spectrum". It can be duplicated by specially designed fluorescent light tubes.
Some of the brand names of these fluorescent tubes are "Vita-Lite"? by Duro-Test and Sylvania's "Design 50"?. Pet shops such as Denny's at Totem Lake carry "Vitalite"? fluorescent tubes by Duro-Test. Phillips makes one called "Colortone 50"? (or just "C50") and Sylvania makes one type called "Design 50'? s". Lighting and electrical suppliers such as Thurman in Totem Lake and Eagle Hardware in Bellevue carry these other types.
The most economical light fixture to install is a four foot "shop light". These are usually available in the home hardware centers in any shopping mall for under $10.00.
Make sure that the light fixture is "self starting" and doesn't require a button to be held down for a second to manually start the tubes up. Also, choose a fixture with a grounded cord and plug. Then a heavy duty timer with a grounded plug and socket can be plugged into the wall outlet and set to go on early in the morning, say 5AM then off at say 9PM. That makes 16 hours of "daylight". Indeed, the light can go off during “normal” daytime for an extended period as long as it comes back on by dusk and stays on until the 16 hour cycle is complete. Dawn starts the pet’s brain’s clock and the time until dusk seems to make all the difference, not the intensity during the mid portions of the perceived day. The light fixture is then plugged directly into the timer and positioned about 18" from the pet.
One last item, do not allow a torpid turtle or other dormant pet to crawl into a box or a cave of any kind or that will defeat the purpose of the light. Force the issue and make the pet experience the light until he or she shapes up and gets moving!
Vitamin D production can be aided by carefully placed full spectrum lights as well. Periodic exposure to natural, unfiltered daylight has benefits with vitamin D production, but can sometimes interfere with the seasonality of herp pets. May 2002

“Dragon Diet"
Carrie’s Purple Surprise For Bearded Dragons


Insectivorous/Carnivorous/Omnivorous Iguanids (fleshy tongued lizards) will probably do best on a diet of 5% DARK green "leafies" (spinach, romaine etc.), 5% mixed vegetables, 5% mixed fruit, 5% mixed melons, and 80% "Reptile Fare" available from Reliable Protein products (760-321-7533 or [e-mail]).

Carrie got out the food processor and threw in the above-mentioned amounts of dark leafies, frozen veggies, fruit, melon, and the Reptile Fare, and blended it. She puts one teaspoonful of Vionate and 1/4 teaspoonful of “Prozyme” for each cup of finished product. She keeps it in the freezer, taking out only what she needs for a day.
She has found that when it is made to include frozen "Marion Blackberries" from the local QFC store as part of the fruit portion, the patients take to it more readily than with other diets.
We freeze it in ice cube trays by filling them about half full. The patients can be given the mixture frozen, right from the freezer, it thaws quickly.
We don't know if it is the color, texture or flavor of this mix that makes the patients like it, but it work very well for us. We are confident that you should experience a similar success at home. For starters, figure about one ice cube portion daily for a 400-gram (14 ounce) pet. Bon Appetite!

Reptile-Fare
BALANCED DIET FOR REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS

Use as complete, balanced diet for carnivorous reptiles, or as the appropriate animal source part of the diet of omnivorous reptiles. Not for use with vegetarians such as desert tortoises.

INGREDIENTS:

Meat By-Products, Fish Meal, Poultry By-Product Meal, Meat And Bone Meal, Bakery By-Product Meal, Shrimp Meal, Fish Solubles, Blood Meal, Dried Kelp, Dried Eggs, Water,Lysine, Dicalcium Phosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Garlic Powder, Potassium Sorbate, Phosphoric Acid, Vitamins A, D3, E, B12 Supplements, Niacin, Riboflavin, Calcium D-Pantothenate, Choline Chloride, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Sodium Selentite, Zinc Diamine Dihydriodide, Magnesium Oxide.


GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:

Crude Protein (Min) 20.0 %
Crude Fat (Min) 6. 0 %
Ash (Max) 4.0 %
Crude Fiber (Max) 5.0 %
Moisture (Max) 45.0 %

STORAGE:

Store In A Cool, Dry Area (Below 80 Degrees), May Be Refrigerated Or Frozen

Manufactured by Reliable Protein Products
44-489 Town Center Way, Suite D 505
Palm Desert, CA 92260-2723
www.zoofood.com

Distributed by Exotic Pet and Bird ClinicSalmonellosis In Reptiles


"Cold blooded" pets should be carefully isolated until they have been evaluated by an qualified, experienced veterinarian for bacterial conditions of the digestive tract which can sometimes cause human illness.

Reptile pets can harbor a bacterial disease caused by bacteria known as Salmonella or Arizona. Persons handling infected Turtles, Snakes or Lizards and then placing their fingers in their mouth or on their food or the food of others can then transmit or become infected with the disease. (CDC estimates 93,000 cases a year from cold blooded pets) The disease can be also transmitted from the infected pet to humans through fecal contamination, requiring no direct contact between the pet and the victim.

The so-called "dime store" turtles were widely distributed for many, many years. These turtles potentially were infected with Salmonella. In the 1970's, public health officials across the country banned the sale of turtles that were less than four inches across the shell in an effort to break the transmission of Salmonella to children.

The disease in humans is associated with intestinal symptoms, such as vomiting, diarrhea, cramps etc. The most common sources of Salmonella today are improperly handled meat especially poorly refrigerated and unwashed poultry. (CDC estimates 1,400,000 cases a year from all sources combined) Contact your physician if you have such symptoms.

Today, a reptilian pet can be tested for signs of those diseases by examination and laboratory tests which are quite accurate. A pet showing no symptoms on examination and culturing free of Salmonella or Arizona organisms is a highly desirable family pet, but is still not a guarantee of health or freedom from danger. If the pet trade, pet owners and others are sloppy in the management of the small but not completely negligible risks, some official will come in again and say that we cannot have our free access to these marvelous pets.

We recommend that parents limit their children's contact with new pet turtles, snakes or iguanas until the animal has been evaluated and checked for shedding Salmonella or Arizona. The cost is usually under $60.00. After the stool culture has been interpreted by the lab and is negative, good personal hygiene is still the order of the day. The best way to be sure is to have your pet checked each year by an experienced reptilian veterinarian (that does not mean a doctor with scales) combined with stool cultures.