what can i feed my juvenile water dragon?

Question

what can i feed my water dragon? once he is an adult will he eat more or less? and what can i feed him that i can catch on the yard and not buy ata store?

Answer 1

Crickets, mealworms (normal size, jumbo and super), waxworms, and earthworms, grasshoppers, butterworms, locusts, some people try small feeder fish like goldfish, and you may also want to offer a little bit of finely shredded veggies and fruit ( if your dragon will eat veggies this should make up about 10% to 15% of their diet) you may also be interested in viewing this page in order to select fruit and veggies with a good calcium to phosphorous ratio.
Adult dragons should be offered all of the above plus King mealworms (Zophobas). Supervise these feedings though, these worms bite back, some people squash their heads before feeding them to their lizards!), pinkies ( newborn hairless mice ) and Fuzzies ( slightly older baby mice, just starting to get hair).

Good luck :)

Answer 2

ok you cant use wild caught bugs. the quantity of the food in which they eat decreases when they get older but the quality will increase. for instance 3 crickets isnt going to do it like it would for a juvenile. and crickets, earthworms(highly recomended) some waxworms and some superworms. vary the diet so they dont get bored of it.

Answer 3

It is not safe to feed wild caught insects. Some, such as fireflies, are very toxic. They could have been exposed to insecticides. You can buy safe insects cheaply on line, like www.reptilefood.com. Go to www.reptilerooms.com for more care info.

Answer 4

Diet: How often to feed your dragon

Dragons at different stages of maturity get fed differently. A hatchling or juvenile needs to be fed daily; an adult- gets fed about every 2 to 3 days, although many people like myself do feed their adult dragons on a daily basis. Feed smaller portions if you would like to feed an adult dragon on a daily basis to prevent them from becoming overweight.

However, whatever size the dragon is disregard this feeding schedule if the dragon is skinny as you need to get some weight on this little guy! Feed every day in this case, offering food 2 or three times a day. Your dragon may only eat a bit in one sitting but be hungry later, and if you don't offer more food your dragon will take longer to get back in shape!

Food Items to offer:

Crickets, mealworms (normal size, jumbo and super), waxworms, and earthworms, grasshoppers, butterworms, locusts, some people try small feeder fish like goldfish, and you may also want to offer a little bit of finely shredded veggies and fruit ( if your dragon will eat veggies this should make up about 10% to 15% of their diet) ( if you're going to try feeding them veggies and fruit, look for Melissa Kaplan's "ig salad diet" in her Iguana Care FAQ you can find the FAQ at: http://www.anapsid.org, you may also be interested in viewing this page in order to select fruit and veggies with a good calcium to phosphorous ratio.

Adult dragons should be offered all of the above plus King mealworms (Zophobas). Supervise these feedings though, these worms bite back, some people squash their heads before feeding them to their lizards!), pinkies ( newborn hairless mice ) and Fuzzies ( slightly older baby mice, just starting to get hair).

INSECTS

INSECTS are fairly high in phosphorus and low in calcium, but do have nutritious value if not fed in abundance or as the soul diet. Most insects also have a hard indigestible exoskeleton that could cause a bowel impaction if fed in large quantities. All insects should be gut loaded with well balanced offerings of veggies and perhaps even some calcium and vitamins before being offered to reptiles. (See fruit and veggies below for some gut loading ideas)

Insects that are fairly easy to purchase: crickets, mealworms (tenibrio), Super worms (tenibrio mealworms on steroids- I don't recommend these!), King mealworms (zophobas), and wax worms (very high in fat and very low in calcium- use only as a treat!), and earthworms.

Insects that can occasionally be found locally or may be purchased by mail order: butterworms, grasshoppers, locusts, Hissing Roaches, cicadas, and silkworms ... (I'm sure there are many others!)

If you would like to keep and breed your own insects to cut the cost of keeping your water dragon or other reptiles please see:

Keeping and breeding crickets,
Keeping and breeding Mealworms, and
Keeping and breeding waxworms.

Many people write to me asking if it is okay to feed their dragons insects that they have found in their yard. My answer is always "No". These insects may be contaminated by pesticides and or herbicides used in the area. Please do not risk your dragons life by feeding him wild caught crickets or other insects. :( Even if you don't use pesticides, someone in your neighbourhood might, and therefore the insects will likely be affected. There have been a number of studies done to see just how far chemical contaminants can travel, and it has been shown that almost every place in the world has been touched by chemical contaminants of some kind or another.

It is not advisable to use insects that are not mentioned on this list as they may be toxic to your dragon. Over the summer a number of people were catching fireflies and feeding them to their herps- a number of these herps died. It seems that fireflies have some chemicals in them that are extremely poisonous. :(



The Importance of Whole Prey food items in our water dragons diet

We have some lively discussions on the water dragon mailing list about all aspects of water dragon care. In the following paragraphs you will find excerpts from recent discussions (NOTE: I will not include the correspondents names):
Discussion of whether water dragons are Insectivores, Carnivores or Omnivores:

It's very important to feed our dragons some whole prey items. They do eat whole prey food items in the wild- other lizards, perhaps baby birds and very likely rodents of one kind or another, as well as insects.

Pinkies, fuzzies, rat pups, and feeder fish are all whole prey items. They contain bones ... bones contain calcium.

There is no way that we can provide our dragons in captivity anything that comes close to what they have in nature as far as access to sunlight and their diet goes. We try very hard ... but we still don't offer enough variety, nor are most of the foods that we offer very well balanced as far as calcium to phosphorus ratio's go.

Therefore it's very important for us to offer as wide a range of diet items as we possibly can and that does include offering pinkies (they aren't that high in calcium ... fuzzies and rat pups are much better!), fuzzies and rat pups as well as whole fish on occasion.

If we are only feeding our dragons one or two food items ... such as crickets and mealworms (pretty much the easiest food items for all of us to get, and they don't gross us out too badly) we are not caring for our dragons properly. There is no way they could get all the nutrients they need from a diet that contains such a small variety ... that would be like us eating the same food day in and day out for months on end ... eventually we would probably get sick or something right?

On the opposite side of the scale, I know there are some people that mainly feed their dragons rodents and rarely offer other food items. This isn't good either. Too much protein can cause damage to internal organs. (Fatty liver, liver disease, cataracts).

Everything must balance out if we want our dragons to be healthy.

Correspondent one said: "I believe that Water Dragons are classified as omnivores which means that they eat both animal and vegetable substances. Although they might eat a large amount of insects during the course of an average day, this would be because of the availability and not their preference or nutritional requirements. Eating lots of insects does not make them insectivores. "

Correspondent two said: "May I suggest you read "Anoles, Basilisks, and Water Dragons," by Bartlett and Bartlett, Barron's. I can direct you to other resource material as well. WDs are primarily insectivores, not omnivores."

I stepped into the discussion at this point and said: "I have that book and if you look on page 74 ... the second paragraph on the right of that page ... it definitely says that they eat mice ... the left side of the page talks about the two smaller species of the Basilisks family and states that they (the small Basilisks) are predominately insectivorous."

This is also the only water dragon book that even mildly suggests in one paragraph (earlier on in the book) that feeding rodents might be unnatural ... no other water dragon book states anything like that, not that I have seen."

" Philippe de Vosjoli's book "The General care and Maintenance of Green water dragons, Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks" states on page 11 that water dragons are carnivores "but will also eat a significant amount of plant matter". This is the book that I would tend to follow for overall basic info."

"Coborns book "Water dragons, Sailfins, and Basilisks" states on page 5 "It feeds on a variety of invertebrates, small frogs, lizards, and nestling birds. Only occasionally will it show herbivorous tendencies." He also states on page 39 " Water dragons, Sailfin lizards, and Basilisks range from being strictly carnivorous to partially herbivorous (omnivorous)." "

"There are three books about water dragons ... I cant find a statement clearly saying they are insectivores in any of them. In fact each book tends to lean more towards calling them carnivores or omnivores. I personally tend to think of them as omnivores myself and state that on my own page."

Correspondent one said: "Personally, I would call them opportunists. When it comes to food items they will pretty much eat anything offered to them, especially if it's moving. Mice, rats, fish, large night crawlers, etc."

I said: "True, but sometimes you have to try over and over again to get them to start eating something ... same is true for humans though isn't it? :)"

Correspondent two said: "I have 50 night crawlers in my fridge for approx. 3 mos. now, would you like me to send them to you? Actually, most WDs are quite finicky. Perhaps you are reaching your conclusions based upon your WD and assuming that to be true of all WDs. It's not. "

I said: "Again True ... they can be finicky ... but if you keep trying, offer them the food that they turn up their snouts at when they are very hungry (haven't eaten for a couple of days) they will often take the food item ... and once they do they will often take it with much less struggle the next time that its offered."

"A couple of my water dragons will not eat pinkies ... I don't force them ... but I do know that if all I offered them for a week or so was pinkies they would eventually eat them ... and if I kept offering them for a while after that initial success the dragons would likely take them on a regular basis from that point on. This doesn't work in all cases ... but if you give the dragon long enough it will work in most cases, and often this is the only way to get an animal started on a food that it doesn't want to try. :( "

Correspondent one said: "I would have a hard time translating that quantity of food into crickets, roaches, worms, etc.." In reference to the large quantities of pinkies and rat pups that his dragons eat.

Correspondent two said: "Have you ever seen a 4 inch Hissing Roach?"

And I said: "And the hard shell of an insect is not digestible (I worry about intestinal obstruction with these large hissing roaches) ... and insects usually have a very high phosphorus to calcium ratio ... rodents usually have a better balance of the two essential minerals. I'm not pushing pinkies here I'm just trying to point out that there are reasons for offering them ... very valid reasons such as the quantity of calcium and protein that they contain."

Correspondent two said: "Last comment from me on the subject--WDs DO NOT REQUIRE PINKIES IN THEIR DIET! If some choose not to feed pinkies, they are not depriving their WDs. You may be harming your WDs health by feeding too many pinkies in order to save time and money simply because you prefer the ease of feeding a pinkie, rather than a larger quantity of bugs."

And to that I said: "I totally 100% disagree with this statement. I think your statement may be inaccurate or not clear enough."

"Yes, if a dragon chooses to eat pinkies it might in the long run be easier for the owner to fed this kind of diet to the dragon. After all, most people that feed rodents to their reptiles feed pre killed rodents right? So that means simply storing them in the freezer until it's time to thaw them and offer them to the dragon. Unlike insects where the dragon keeper must store and feed the insects for days or weeks at a time."

"This is what I agree/disagree with: Ok ... no pinkies if you choose not to feed them ... as I've said a few times this evening pinkies have a very low calcium content as compared to fuzzies and rat pups :) ... BUT ... WDS DO REQUIRE WHOLE PREY FOOD ITEMS IN THEIR DIET!"

" If you choose not to feed pinkies ... then you should be offering another form of whole prey food as a regular part of the diet. That could be small lizards, or it could be fuzzies or rat pups, or it could be whole fish ... "

"Dragons need to have some items in their diet that have a higher calcium to phosphorus level and protein content than insects offer."

" Insects tend to have a very high phosphorus to calcium ratio ... meaning that if your feeding a diet primarily of insects and your lighting isn't perfect, and your supplementing isn't regular, and you don't always have the temps right ... your dragon WILL be more susceptible to MBD (calcium deficiency)."

" That is one reason why carnivorous and or omnivorous reptiles tend to have less problems with calcium deficiency than do reptiles that are primarily herbivorous (fruit and veggies also tend to have high phosphorus levels) ... it's the content on the whole prey food items that they do eat that make this huge difference. The only insect that has a half decent calcium level, and it's not really an insect, is the earthworm ... but it still doesn't make up for a whole prey food item offered at least occasionally in the diet."

Correspondent two said: "To state that those that do not feed pinkies should have Igs instead of WDs is a bit off the wall."

To which I stepped in and said: "It's not as off the wall as you might think. I get a lot of letters from new and old water dragon owners that cannot bear the thought of feeding pinkies to their dragons ... a fair percentage of these people are also very squeamish about feeding insect items to their dragons ... I reply back to them, offer them suggestions, tell them no you cant just feed them veggies and fruit like the pet store told you (grrr), heck you'll be lucky if they eat that at all anyway, and no you cant feed them canned dog or cat food either ... and you should see the replies I get back!"

"Yes the statement above that, if you cant feed pinkies to your dragon you should have an ig instead is probably on the strong side ... but I tend to agree with the basis for the argument. How 'bout we generalize it a bit more? If you aren't prepared to feed your dragon a varied diet that will mimic much of what it would eat in the wild then perhaps you should not get a water dragon. I definitely don't agree that they should get an ig instead ... that's a whole 'nother ball game!"
What food items to offer, and Why

Food items of the appropriate size should be offered to your dragon. As a general rule the size of the food item should be no longer than the length of the head, and no wider than half the width of the head, and preferably about one third the width of the head.
INSECTS

INSECTS are fairly high in phosphorus and low in calcium, but do have nutritious value if not fed in abundance or as the soul diet. Most insects also have a hard indigestible exoskeleton that could cause a bowel impaction if fed in large quantities. All insects should be gut loaded with well balanced offerings of veggies and perhaps even some calcium and vitamins before being offered to reptiles. (See fruit and veggies below for some gut loading ideas)

Insects that are fairly easy to purchase: crickets, mealworms (tenibrio), Super worms (tenibrio mealworms on steroids- I don't recommend these!), King mealworms (zophobas), and wax worms (very high in fat and very low in calcium- use only as a treat!), and earthworms.

Insects that can occasionally be found locally or may be purchased by mail order: butterworms, grasshoppers, locusts, Hissing Roaches, cicadas, and silkworms ... (I'm sure there are many others!)

NOTE: Wild caught insects, those found in your yard or otherwise, may be contaminated with pesticides and herbicides so I would advise you not to use these insects. Pesticides are extremely toxic to reptiles! Some insect contain toxins that may make your dragons very ill or kill them. The chemical in fireflies that makes them "light-up" has killed a number of bearded dragons and likely other reptiles, many caterpillars are also poisonous.

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EARTHWORMS

EARTHWORMS are fairly high in calcium, and are fairly well balanced nutritionally. They are also soft so the risk of impaction is lessened.

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WHOLE PREY

WHOLE PREY food items are generally high in calcium and protein, and due to the calcium content should be included as part of the diet. Mader states in his Reptile Medicine and Surgery " Carnivorous lizards should be fed pre-killed whole prey. Rodents are preferable to chicks, and chicks are preferable to fish." he also goes to state " If mice, rats, rodents, rabbits and chicks make up the bulk of the diet, vitamin and mineral supplementation should not be necessary. It should be noted that newborn pinkie mice have less total calcium than do adult mice, and a calcium should be supplemented if these are used."

A selection of whole prey food items would range from pinkie, fuzzy and adult mice, rat pups, some people have offered gerbil fuzzies?, young chicks (Mader himself used to feed his dragons chicks), and feeder fish such as minnows. Some people also offer small lizards such as anoles to their dragons as a food source.

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FRUIT AND VEGGIES:

FRUIT AND VEGGIES: Some dragons will eat fruit and veggies when it's offered, but many dragons will not take fruit and veggies at all! Keepers that have success with this find fruit is preferred. Unfortunately fruit tends to be very high in phosphorus and very low in many other nutrients with the largest benefit being additional fluids and vitamins.

Fruit that have good calcium content include figs, raspberries, cantaloupe, strawberries and blueberries ... starting to slide now on the amount of calcium ... I think mangos and papaya's are ok too?

Veggies that have an adequate calcium to phosphorus ratio: Greens such as collards, dandelion (flowers edible too), and mustard greens. (Kale, spinach and other greens of this variety are high in oxalates which bind to calcium making it unusable) leafy veggies of the lettuce family have almost no nutrients thus are very low in value other than for their water content. Yellow squash, sweet potato, parsnips, green beans, and occasionally carrots ... Veggies such as broccoli contain oxalates and as stated above that binds to calcium rendering it unusable.

Please NOTE that all of the well balanced fruit and veggies listed above can be used when gut loading your insects!

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Content of some common food items:

Here is the content of some common food items (from Melissa Kaplan's page http://www.anapsid.org):
FOOD %PROT %FAT %Ca %Phos KCAL/gm
mealworm 22.3 14.9 .26 .23 2.74
cricket 55.3 30.2 .23 .74 unk
earthworms 10.39 7.2 1.18 .90 4.71
mouse (1-2 days old) unk unk 1.60 1.80 unk
mouse (7-10 days old) unk unk 1.40 1.30 unk
mouse (adult) 19.8 8.8 .84 .61 2.07
rat 7.6 1.9 .54 1.35 .69

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A healthy Diet Combination- Ratio's

I believe a healthy diet would be a combination of all of the above diet items, using as wide a variety of each item as possible, in the ratio of:

* Insects 40% - 50%
* Earthworms 10% - 20%
* Whole Prey 40% - 20%
* Fruit & Veggies 10%
o (If possible, otherwise increase % of whole prey)

Insects and earthworms should be gut loaded, and dusted with calcium supplement approximately every second day, dusted with vitamins once a week; It couldn't hurt to add some supplementation to the fruit and veggies if the dragon is eating them; unless it's pinkies that is being offered as the whole prey food item calcium supplementation shouldn't have to be added to these food items.

Dragons receiving diets lower in whole prey food items should of course be getting more calcium supplementation than dragons getting higher quantities of whole prey.

Please see my "Diet of water dragons" page http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/diet.htm for more information.


Care of The Chinese Water Dragon
Copyright © 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999 by Tricia Power

First of all ... Congratulations! I imagine you are either reading this because you are thinking about getting a water dragon, just bought one or already have one. Water dragons are wonderful lizards! If you get your dragon going properly you will have a fairly tame, non aggressive pet!

I have written this care guide specifically for Chinese water dragons but there are a few other species that are very similar in care. The Australian water dragon, Sailfin lizards, and most species of Basilisks can be kept in a similar fashion as those described in this document.

What is a water dragon?
Genus Species:

Physignathus cocincinus- Green Water Dragon

Physignathus lesueurii- Australian Water Dragon

Please note that this document will contain only information pertaining to the keeping of the Chinese water dragon (Physignathus cocincinus) from this point onward. The care of the Australian water dragon (Physignathus lesueurii) is apparently similar to that of the Chinese water dragon. There is at least one other species classed in the genus Physignathus, and that is Physignathus temporalis, but I have been told that both lesueurii and temporalis will be re-classed in the near future.
Size and Description:

Hatchlings are about 1 inch snout to vent, and 5 to 6 inches (13-15 cm) in total length; are often a brownish green dorsally (upper surface of the body) and a pale green to white ventrically (lower abdominal surface of the body), light coloured stripes (usually white or beige) run vertically across each side of the body, with brown and green banded tails, very large eyes and short snouts.

Adult males are approx. 3 feet (92 cm) total length, adult females are approx. 2 feet (61 cm) total length. The tail of these lizards, from my observations, appears to make up approximately 70% - 75% of the water dragons total length. The tail is laterally flattened, banded brown and green, and ends in a fine point. Dragons use their tails for balance and leverage when climbing, and can use them to whip would be attackers, predators, and, or keepers. :)

Adult water dragons are, of course, green with colours ranging from a dark forest green to a light mint green. The lower body of adult dragons is generally white or very light yellow. Vertical, slanted stripes run along the sides of the water dragons body. These stripes can range in colour from a pale green , mint green, to an aqua or turquoise colour. The throats of juvenile and adult water dragons can also be quite colourful, with throat colours ranging from a very pale yellow, to orange, to peach, and bright pink.

The head has a triangular shape, and on adult male dragons the head will become quite large and wide. Large, rounded, white scales run just below the mouth area and end in one or two larger pointed scales where the head and neck meet. The tongues of water dragons are similar in shape to our tongues, in that they are thick and wide, but their tongues end in a very small fork. The tongue has a sticky surface that helps them to catch and hold their prey. Their teeth are small and pointed- the better to eat a omnivorous diet- and can draw blood if a dragon were to bite their keeper (luckily most dragons are even tempered and rarely bite their keepers). A dark stripe runs from the lower corner of the eye and extends out toward the ear .

A very small (1-2mm) round shiny spot located at the top of the head, between their eyes, is known as the parietal eye or the third eye. The parietal eye is thought to help water dragons, as well as a number of other reptiles, sense differences in light. It is believed that they use their third eye to help them thermoregulate. For example, it may help them to decide upon a good basking spot, or it may help them sense that light levels are decreasing and that they had better find shelter for the night.

Water dragons have well developed nuchal crests, but they are often higher, and have longer spikes on male dragons. Males also have prominent mid-sagittal crests.

Water dragons have well developed legs. The front legs are generally much more slender than the back legs. The front legs, and strong 5 toed front claws, are used to climb and grasp branches. The muscular back legs are used to aid in climbing and swimming, as well as jumping or leaping from object to object! Water dragons can run bipedally, that is on their hind legs, and this is quite a sight to see, indeed! Their hind feet are 5 toed as well, with the middle toe being the longest toe. Their claws are long and thick and end in sharp needle like points.

A recent article stated that water dragons are able to change their colours. While that is true to some extent, this article makes water dragons seem almost chameleon like in that ability, and this just isn't so. I have found that a warm, happy and healthy water dragon will most often be a nice bright shade of green, and this green will change shades only slightly if the dragon is content. A cold, sick, stressed, or frightened dragon will have a greater colour range from almost black to pale green. So if your dragon is in one of the latter colour ranges most of the time please take note of it because it is likely to be either cold, ill, or badly stressed.
Habitat:

From southeast Asian mainland (Thailand, Southern China, Vietnam, and Cambodia). Chinese water dragons are large diurnal, arboreal lizards, living mainly in the branches of trees and bushes, however they have also been found in burrows in sandy places. These lizards are also known to be semi-aquatic. Their long laterally flattened tail is well utilized when swimming.

After viewing this information go on to visit Chinese Water Dragons in Vietnam- Natural Environment and learn more about sightings of water dragons in the wild!
Life span:

Anywhere from 10 to 20 years ( from the feed back that I've received, the oldest one that I personally know of is an 11 year old male that one of my email buddies has, and this dragon is going strong, I'm sure he has many years ahead of him!) So be prepared for a long term pet! :) I have also heard that the two adult Chinese water dragons kept at the Metropolitan Toronto Zoo are 15 and 17 years old. I was told this by a curator who has recently confirmed these ages.

Sexing:

Boy this is a hard one- With age males develop larger heads, large jowls, and a larger crest behind the neck, the femoral pores of adult males are slightly larger than that of the females. When dragons are mature and able to breed, they are generally about 2 years old and 2 feet in length. They are generally considered adults when they have mature colours just under their chins. One of mine has a nice yellow chin, and the larger one has a nice peach and aqua coloration under his chin. From what I can tell it is very difficult to tell if you have a male or female until they are mature. They generally have to be about twenty inches or longer in total length before their secondary sexual characteristics begin to develop thus making males and females easily distinguishable from one another. Your vet can probe your dragon to find out, but if you have a good vet he won't do this unless your dragon is about 18 months to 2 years old. There is also the danger of damaging the dragon when this is done, please keep this in mind if you decide to have your dragon probed! A safer way to sex your dragon is to compare it to other dragons. Please visit the Water dragon photo gallery to see pictures of male and female dragons.

I've just complete a page on Sexing your water dragon- Do I have a male or female, which contains much more descriptive details about the differences in sexual characteristics than in this section. Check it out!

Thinking About a mate for your dragon:

Hmmmm ... You better be pretty sure of what sex your dragon is first..... Two males generally will not get along, two females usually will. Of course a male and a female would be your best bet then you could get them to breed and provide more captive bred dragons to the herp community and hopefully help lower the amount of wild caught dragons that are brought in to be sold! :) Dragons breed very easily! :)

I think it is best for new water dragon owners to begin with one lizard at first, unless you can get a guarantee that the company you are buying from will accurately sex a male and female lizard for you, if that's what you want of course.

Keep your one Dragon for a while, get to know it, let it adjust, and then get it a mate. You will learn more from your first dragon, and make fewer mistakes with your second! :)

Be advised, when you get your second dragon have a fecal (stool) test done for parasites (do this with your first too) before putting it in with your first dragon. Also check both dragons carefully for mites- they are hard to get rid of and you don't want to have an infestation.

It's good to quarantine new animals for a month or more until you are sure they are healthy before putting them in with others. Please see New Reptile- Quarantine, and signs of Illness. Prior to putting your new dragon in with your first one, take the time to introduce them for short periods, supervise the visits, watch for fighting, aggressive behaviour, and stress. In time they should get along fine, but it will be less stressful on them and on yourselves if you do it slowly.

Recommended Reading

You may purchase some of the recommended books below through my Reptile and Amphibian Recommended Reading Page.


Water Dragon Books

Green Water Dragons, Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks (General Care and Maintenance of Series) by Philippe De Vosjoli
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Canada

Basic but detailed information about the care, diet, and health of green water dragons, sailfin lizards and basilisks.

Anoles, Basilisks, and Water Dragons Anoles, Basilisks and Water Dragons : A Complete Pet Care Manual (More Complete Pet Owner's Manuals) by Richard D. Bartlett, Patricia P. Bartlett (Contributor)
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Canada

Discussion of the general care of many species of anole, basilisks and water dragons. Excellent information regarding enclosures, cage building, and insect care and breeding.

Eat this Bug Eat This Bug : A Guide to Invertebrate Live Foods for Reptiles and Amphibians by Lynn Davis

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U.K. Get this Item at Amazon Canada

Canada

This book is a guide for owners of reptiles and amphibians who feed insects and other live foods to their pets. Advice is offered for selecting , ordering and raising your own supply of live invertebrate foods. More than a dozen species of live foods are discussed. The book includes instructions on keeping cultures of insects, and recipes & diets for insects.