I have a ball python, and recently I heard that you could feed them too much, has anyone heard of that?

Question

Does anyone know if there is any truth to that?

Answer 1

Some breeders will intentionally do this to quickly get a snake up to breeding size, it's called power-feeding. It is not healthy for the animal and results in a body that is out of proportion to the head. Snakes are opportunistic feeders. They are wired to take food whenever it arrives so many will over-eat if given the chance. You will have a healthier, longer lived pet if you regulate the food intake. About every 5 to 7 days for hatchlings and increasing that interval as the snake grows. Adults are usually fed about every one to two weeks depending on the prey size.

Answer 2

I have seen it. I rescued Exotics (Snakes, Lizrads, Hedgehogs, a Guinea Pig) for several years before becoming a mom :-)

It results in a sluggish snake, and yes they can get fat. It causes many of the same problems it does in people - more work for their heart, decreased respiration, shortened lifespan.

The other info so far is good: while growing, a mouse every week; once they reach adulthood, a rat once a month.

I would remove the snake, put it in a seperate tupperware container and put the mouse in (either live or dead). If the snake didn't show interest within 10 minutes, I put the snake back and waited another week. This only works with snakes that are healthy eaters, though - if the snake is ill or not a good hunter, it may take longer to show interest in food.

Answer 3

Balls will eat when givin the chance. However Ball pythons are notorious for suddenly stopping to eat. They will for no reason just stop eating and then one day 6 months later they might eat again. When using mice, I gave them one a week sometimes 2 small ones a week. With rats once every other week

Answer 4

yes its not good to over feed them i know you want it to grow fast but they need time to digest . to much food in there belly can turn rancid and end up killing them feed them 1 time a week something about the size of his mid body . if he hasnt crapped in like a month or 2 dont feed him for a week or 2. trust me .

Answer 5

It is called power feeding and it is bad for them they grow really Quickly. It is suggested to just feed when hungry.

Answer 6

Heres some geatt info-

Common Name:Ball Python or Royal Python


Latin name: Python regius

Native to: Central and Western Africa

Size: Adult ball pythons average in size from three to five feet

Life span: Ball pythons are one of the longest-lived snakes. It is not unusual for these pythons to live 20 - 30 years in captivity. One specimen lived for 47 years at the Philadelphia Zoo.

General appearance: Ball pythons are named for their defense behavior of rolling into a tight ball with their head in the middle. Like all other pythons, ball pythons have spurs at their vents. There are many different color morphs and patterns available today in captive bred specimens. The "standard" ball python has large chocolate brown markings with lighter medium-brown spots interspersed between the darker spots. The belly is generally off-white or a pale gray.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Remember that all snakes are escape artists and when designing an enclosure it is of the utmost importance that whatever enclosure is used is made as escape-proof as possible. Generally an adult ball python should be kept is a 30-gallon sized enclosure (12 inches x 36 inches).

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be maintained at 80° - 85° F with a basking temperature of 90° - 95° F. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F.

Heat/Light: There has been no evidence to suggest that photo periods affect the keeping of ball pythons. If a regular photo period is provided it is recommended to use fluorescent bulbs in order to minimize the extra heat generated by incandescent bulbs.

When providing heat, do NOT use hot rocks. Hot rocks are notoriously unpredictable and can cause serious burn injuries to your animal. Red basking bulbs or ceramic emitters can be used to generate basking spots. Under the tank heating pads can also be used to help raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure. It is recommended to routinely check the temperatures of the enclosure with thermometers.

Substrate: Newspaper and newsprint make excellent substrate even though it is not very attractive. It is easy to clean and is excellent to use when acclimating new ball pythons to their enclosure. Wood shavings can also be used, though cedar should never be used and some pine can also cause health problems as well. Aspen shavings are usually an excellent choice if using wood shavings. If keeping the snake on wood shavings, care should be taken when feeding the snake to avoid shavings becoming lodged in the snake's mouth.

Environment: Like all snakes, ball pythons are strictly carnivorous. Adult ball pythons can be fed two to three adult mice per week. Hatchlings and juvenile animals can be fed one appropriately sized prey item per week (i.e fuzzies for hatchlings, hoppers for slightly older animals).

It is important to note here that ball pythons are notorious for not eating on a regular schedule. This is especially true of wild caught specimens. Whenever possible try to obtain captive bred snakes that have already fed to minimize problems eating. If your new ball python does not eat immediately it is important to not panic. Ball pythons have been known to go months without eating and there are records of ball pythons of not eating for 22 months. Often a variety of foods may need to be offered in order to get the snake to eat and often many will only eat live food. If you are experience difficulty getting your ball python to eat you may need to consult several more in-depth texts on the subject. One excellent resource is The Ball Python Manual (see references below).

Diet: Hatchlings can be started off feeding on pinkie mice. Juveniles and adults can gradually take larger prey of fuzzy mice, adult mice or young rats. Young snakes can be fed 1 - 2 times a week. Thawed frozen rodents are the easiest and safest way to feed snakes. A supply can be kept in your freezer and there are no problems from live mice biting your snake. Water should be provided in a bowl. The snake will drink from it and may soak itself before it sheds.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be offered daily. If using newsprint then clean as needed. Wood shavings should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be disinfected. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your ball python or any cage accessories.

Other references or recommended reading:

de Vosjoli, Phillip, et al. The Ball Python Manual. Santee: Advanced Vivarium Series 1995

Knutson, Billy. "Ball Python Care Sheet." The Python Hunter. Retrieved 8 October 2001

Kaplan, Melissa. "Ball Pythons." Updated 26 March 2000. Retrieved 8 October 2001 http://www.anapsid.org/ball.html

Remember that in many places it is illegal to take wildlife out of the wild without the proper permits from local, state, or federal authorities. Please do not release any captive reptiles or amphibians into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment. See our amphibian and reptile adoptions page for more information on what to do with unwanted herps.

Answer 7

you can but dont worry, if your snake did eat too much he would just barf it up., so dont be alarmed